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JAPAN

AS WE SAW IT

By M .BICKERSTETH

WITH A PREFACE BY THE

BISHOP OF EXETER

ILLUSTRATED ^ ^ jJ^T^ Q

LONDON
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, AND COMPANY

LIMITED

&U £9uu£tan'£ l&au&e
Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.

NEW YOEK

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

743 & 745, Broadway

1893

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2013

http://archive.org/details/japanaswesawitOObick

( v )

PREFACE.

" Japan as we saw it " is, I venture to think, a happy
title for these brief sketches by my daughter, of our
eight weeks' sojourn in the Mikado's Empire. They
do not claim in any way to be a tourist's handbook.
They are only word-photographs, somewhat loosely
grouped together, of what we were permitted to see
under the exceptionally favourable guidance of my
son, the Church of England Bishop there, and of the
impressions indelibly stamped on our memory while
passing through that fascinating land, and freely
mingling with cultured Japanese society. And they
must only be accepted as samples of countless things
we did not see.

I need hardly say it was the missionary aspect of
that marvellous revolution of thought now drawing
Japan year by year into closer communion with
Christian lands, which especially, though not ex-
clusively, engrossed our attention. I should not
have thought it right to leave my diocese for twenty
weeks, if those who knew Japan best had not assured
me that the country was passing through such a crisis
as seldom occurs in the history of nations ; that

VI PREFACE.

Buddhism, if not utterly effete, was fast losing its
grasp upon the conscience of the educated classes ;
that thoughtful students, to be numbered by tens
of thousands, were oscillating between infidelity and
Christianity ; that, while the advocates of European
Agnosticism were actively sowing seeds of doubt, the
success of the ambassadors of the Cross had been far
beyond anything we could have anticipated from the
slender efforts as yet put forth by Christian lands ;
and that any sympathy shown by England's Church
at this epoch would strengthen the hands of those
who were bearing the burden and heat of the day.

I can truly bear witness that " Japan as we saw
it" did not belie these assurances. It appeared to
me the very ideal of a noble country awaiting and
attracting missionary enterprise, and worthy of the
utmost efforts of the Church of Christ. For though
Japan is small compared with its gigantic neighbours,
India and China, it is a large empire in itself. Its
area exceeds that of Great Britain and Ireland. Its
population is more than forty million souls. And if
I may venture to repeat words I used on my return
when pleading its cause before the Church Missionary
Society, —

" If you had been asked to sketch an ideal land
most suitable for Christian Missions, and when itself
Christianized most suited for evangelistic work among
the nations of the far East, what, I ask, would be the

PREFACE. Vll

special characteristics of the land and people that you
would have desired? Perhaps, first, as Englishmen
or Irishmen, you would have said, c Give us islands,
inseparably and for ever united ; give us islands which
can hold their sea-girt independence, and yet near
enough to the mainland to exert influence there.'
Such is Japan — the Land of the Rising Sun. ' Give
us a hardy race, not untrained in wTar by land and
sea ; for a nation of soldiers, when won for Christ,
rights best under the banner of the Cross — for we are
of the Church militant here on earth : give us brave
men ; ' and such are the descendants of the old
Daimios and two-sworded Samurai of Japan. ' Give
us an industrial race, not idlers nor loungers, ener-
vated by a luxurious climate, but men who delight in
toil, laborious husbandmen, persevering craftsmen,
shrewd men of business ; ' and such are the Japanese
agriculturists, who win two harvests a year from their
grateful soil ; such are the handicraftsmen there,
whose work is the envy of Western lands ; such are
the merchants, who hold their own with us in
commerce. ' Give us men of culture, with noble
traditions, but not so wedded to the past that they
will not grasp the present and salute the future ; ' and
such are the quick-witted myriad-minded Japanese,
who with a marvellous power of imitation ever some-
how contrive to engraft their own specialities upon
those of Western lands. Witness their Constitu-

Vlll PREFACE.

tion, their Parliament, their 30,000 schools in active
operation ; witness their museums and hospitals ;
witness their colleges and universities. 'But/ you
would also have said, ' give us a race whose women
are homespun and refined, courteous and winsome,
not tottering on tortured feet, not immured in zenanas
and harems, but who freely mingle in social life, and
adorn all they touch ; ' and such, without controversy,
are the women of Japan. Above all, ' Give us a
reverent and a religious people, who yet are conscious
that the religion of their fathers is unsatisfying and
unreal, and who are therefore ready to welcome the
Christ of God ; ' and such are the thoughtful races of
Japan.

" The Gospel has dawned there. Forty years ago
the gates were shut, and locked, and barred. We
owe much to America, for in 1852 Commodore Perry
first won an entrance into Japan. Some years after-
wards Lord Elgin signed the Treaty of Yeddo
between Great Britain and Japan. In 1868 came the
marvellous Eevolution, the feudalism of 700 years
being abolished, and the Mikado being enthroned in
the reality of power. That same year an anonymous
donor sent £4,000 to the Church Missionary Society
for work in Japan, and the next year the Eev. George
Ensor, who was to Japan what Epaphras was to
Colosse, went forth in Christ's name.

" The voice to us is, Go forward ! There is very

PREFACE. IX

much land to be possessed, but we are well able to
overcome it, and, God helping us, we will. What
will conquer ? Not Agnosticism, with its heartless
no-creed ; not Deism, with its icy distance betwixt
God and Man ; not Eoman superstition, with its
Mariolatry and priestcraft ; not Plymouthism, that
molluscous kind of Christianity with no backbone to
it ; not the repellent doctrine of limited redemp-
tion ; not that hideous nightmare of annihilation,
nor the baseless dream of Universalism : — but the
good old faith of the everlasting Gospel on Bible
foundations and Apostolic lines. The order-loving
Japanese reverence our ritual.

" At first our army of evangelists must be officered
by English or American leaders, but when the time
has fully come these will be ready to yield their
posts to natives — Japanese deacons, and priests, and
bishops ; and that will be, as my son said to me, the
happiest euthanasia of Western Missions, when Japan
is Christian from shore to shore. We ought, we can,
and, by God's grace, we will ; only we must not offer
to God that which costs us little or nothing. The
Master does not degrade us by asking cheap service at
our hands. Fifty more men and women are sorely
needed in the next two years. Who is willing to
consecrate his service or hers to God ? We trust in
no arm of flesh ; nothing can or will prevail but a
masculine faith in God ; nothing but the old heroism
of primitive Christianity ; nothing but the story of the

X PREFACE.

Cross, and the omnipotent grace of the Holy Spirit of
God. In hoc signo vinces, et in ceternum laus Deo!'

I asked one Japanese gentleman who knew his
country well, whether he thought if by any political
revolution or renaissance of Buddhism, Christianity
was no longer tolerated, and Christian converts were
outlawed and persecuted, the avowed belief of the
Gospel would be as nearly crushed as Eoman
Catholicism was after the times of Francis Xavier.
He answered without hesitation that it was utterly
impossible, for the Faith had now gripped the hearts
of his fellow-countrymen, and the Word of God was
in their hands. So Dr. Griffin, the author of " The
Mikado's Empire," quotes and fully endorses the
words : " The publication of the Bible in Japanese
was like building a railway through the national
intellect."

I need add no more, in introducing this book to
the kind indulgence of its readers, than to affirm my
unshaken conviction that Japan will become Christian,
if not in my lifetime, in the lifetime of my children,
and that Japan won for Christ will be to the main-
land of the far East what England is to Europe — the
fortress of freedom, the asylum of the oppressed, the
herald of the Sun of Eighteousness arising with
healing in His wings.

E. H. EXON

The Palace, Exeter,

February 14, 1893.

( xi )

CONTENTS.

Preface. By the Rt. Rev. Lord Bishop of Exeter . Page v
CHAPTER I.

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA.

Liverpool to Quebec — Niagara — The Canadian Lakes — The

Rocky Mountains — Vancouver to Yokohama . . 1

CHAPTER II.

TOKYO.

The City of Tokyo — S. Andrew's House — S. Hilda's Mission
— Ushigome Church — Kyobashi Dispensary — The Shiba
Temples — Graveyard of the Forty-seven Ronins — First
Sunday in Tokyo .... 15

CHAPTER III.

NIKKO AND IKAO.

Nikko — Temple of Iyeyasu — Lake Chusenji — A Night in
a Japanese Inn — Ikao — The Valley of Haruna — A
Shinto Temple — The Highroad to Takasaki . . 40

CHAPTER IV.

LIFE m THE GREAT CAPITAL.

The Tokyo Kwankoba — The Greek Cathedral — Shopping in
the Ginza — The Imperial Gardens — Kyobashi Church
— S. Andrew's Mission — Ueno Park and Museum — Mr.
Kirkes' At Home — The 0 Cha No Yu, or Ceremonial
Tea-drinking— S. Hilda's School . . . . 64

Xll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER Y.

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS.

Japanese Photographs — The Keiogijiku College — The
Imperial University — A Japanese Dinner-Party — Uni-
tarianism in Japan — The Sensoji Temple — Last day in
Tokyo Page 93

CHAPTER VI.

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA.

The Church in Japan — Miyanoshita — Mount Fuji — Hakone
— Ojigoku — Nagoya — Japanese Confirmation — The
Castle of Nagoya — Cloisonne-enamel — The Christian
Converts of Nagoya . . . . . .114

CHAPTER VII.

KYOTO.

A Buddhist Graveyard — New Buddhist Temple — The
Imperial Garden— The Rapids of the Katsuragawa —
Otsu and Lake Biwa — The Chion-in Temple — The
Great Buddha— The Temple of the 33,333 Images of
Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy . . . .141

CHAPTER VIII.

OSAKA.

A Sunday at Osaka — Bishop Poole's Girls' School — A Picnic

atMino 157

CHAPTER IX.

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE.

The Great Earthquake — Narrow Escape of the Bishop of
Exeter and Mrs. Bickersteth — Varied Experiences of

CONTENTS. Xlll

the Osaka Mission — Boys' High School, Osaka — A
Japanese Reception ..... Page 166

CHAPTER X.

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE.

Terrible Loss of Life and Property in the Earthquake —
Letters from Gifn and Ogaki — S. Hilda's Mission at
Work among the Sufferers . . . . .180

CHAPTER XL

NARA, OR AN ANCIENT JAPANESE CAPITAL.

The Temples of Kara — Shinto Priests — The Great Dai

Butsu— Buddhist Bells 230

CHAPTER XII.

FUKUYAMA.

The Mission Church in Fukuyama — Laying of Foundation
Stone by the Bishop of Exeter — Continued Shocks of
Earthquake at Osaka . . . . . .238

CHAPTER XIII.

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA.

All Saints' Day at Kobe — Thanksgiving Service — The
Emperor's Birthday — Arima — Through the Inland Sea
in the Kobe Maru. ...... 244

CHAPTER XIV.

FUKUOKA AND OYAMADA.

The Island of Kiushiu — Fukuoka — A Sunday at Fukuoka
— Oyamada, or the Christian Village — Kurume — The
polite Policeman . . . . . . .259

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XV.

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN.

The Old Castle — A Japanese Giant — Reception by Christian
Converts — The Great Volcano — A Japanese Connoisseur
in china — The Leper Temple — Letter to the " Times "
by the Bishop of Exeter .... Page 272

CHAPTER XVI.

JAPANESE FUNERALS.

A Shinto Funeral — A Buddhist Funeral — The Paradise of
Buddhism — Japanese Annual Festival in Memory of the
Dead . 293

CHAPTER XVJI.

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN.

Japanese Inn at Ureshino — Sonogi and Tokitsu Water —

Nagasaki — Farewell to Japan ..... 303

CHAPTER XVIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Hong-Kong — A Day in Canton — Singapore — Colombo —

Pleasant Days in the Valetta — Home . . .313

Appendices 331

Index 343

( XV

LIST OF ILLTJSTBATIONS.

PAGE

The Bishop of Exetek and Pakty . . . Frontispiece
S. Hilda's Mission, Tokyo . . . . .18

Japanese Samurai, oe Two-Sworded Warrior . . 29
Grave of the Forty-seven Eonins, Tokyo .. . 35
Courtyard in Iyeyasu's Temple, Nikko ... 43
From a Photograph of Car vino at Nikko . .45
Gateway in Iyeyasu's Temple, Nikko ... 47
Shinto Shrine, Iyeyasu's Temple, Nikko . . .57
Japanese Tournament in the Old Days . . .05
Imperial Gardens, Tokyo. . . . . . (59

Image of Buddha, in Ueno Park, Tokyo . . .77
From a Photograph of Wood-carving at Nikko . 94
Avenue of Cherry Trees in Ueno Park, Tokyo . 97

Japanese Fish Merchant 10G

Mount Fuji n7

Avenue of Cryptomeria, Leading to Nikko . . 123
Edw. Bickersteth, Bishop of Japan . . .129

Nagoya Castle 133

Gate of Hongwanji Temple, Kyoto . . . .143
Temple of Kwannon, Kyoto
Portrait of the Bishop of Exeter .
Archdeacon Warren's Drawing-room
Earthquake ....

155

. To face p. 1G1
AFTER the

. 1C»

XVI

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Interior of Mill at Osaka after the Earthquake

Street in Ogaki after the Earthquake .

Nagarawa Bridge after the Earthquake

Temple at Gifu after the Earthquake

Japanese Children .

glfu after the earthquake

Jinriksha Runner .

Shinto Priests and Shrine

Japanese Broom Merchant

Japanese Fishing Boat .

Silk-spinning .

A Merchant in the Old Days of Japan

Japanese Tea-house.

Japanese Bed .

A Blind Shampooer .

Japanese Pilgrims .

PAGE

175
189
198
203
214
219
229
233
240
255
263
275
279
304
306
330

& Rivington, limit

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT

CHAPTER I.

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA.

A voyage round the world and a visit to the Mikado's
Empire ! Even in these days of incessant travelling,
such a tour is a marked event in any life, and to
us it possessed from the first a peculiar interest, for
circumstances had already combined to forge many
close links between us and Japan,

Through my eldest brother, who had been appointed
its second Missionary Bishop in 1886, we had received
many interesting details regarding the Japanese
people, their life and their thought, until we already
held, as it were, the fragments of a more or less
perfect mosaic in our hands, which only needed
"Japan as we saw it" to be fitted into a living
whole.

During 1888 my brother visited England for a
few months, in order to attend the Pan-Anglican
Conference of Bishops at Lambeth in July of that

B
9|

2 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

year. He returned to Japan in October, and we did
not expect to see him again until 1893, when his
next English furlough would be due. But during
1890 he proposed to my father that they should meet
in Canada for a summer holiday, and this suggested
the idea that they might meet in Japan itself. My
father would thus see not only him but his work ;
and after telling the Japanese of the warm interest
felt in their country by the Church at home, could
bring word to England of the growing needs of the
Church in Japan.

Many difficulties seemed to stand in the way,
but one by one they disappeared, and by the
summer of 1891 every arrangement had been
made. My father was able to leave his Diocese in
charge of Bishop Barry, and, accompanied by Mrs.
Bickers teth and myself, he sailed for Japan on the
13th of August from Liverpool. He intended, all
being well, to take us by the Canadian Pacific route,
and, after spending nearly eight weeks in Japan, to
return via India, so as to avoid midwinter on the
Atlantic, and complete our tour round the world.

The voyage across the Atlantic in the Parisian,
the finest steamer of the Allan Line, was very
favourable, and the 22nd of August found us safely
anchored in the harbour of Quebec.

The weather was magnificent, and we shall never
forget the entrance to the Biver St. Lawrence. It is

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 3

crowded with islands, from tiny brown rocks just
peeping above the water to great islands like that of
Orient, twenty-six miles long. On one side rose the
beautiful range of the Laurentian Mountains, and
on the other lay the closely-packed villages of the
French Canadian population, grouped round quaint
little churches with sharply-pointed tin steeples.

We had several hours in Quebec, and much
admired the old city, with its fine citadel and harbour,
and the characteristically French groups in its streets,
which seemed like a bit of Normandy transferred to
America.

The Parisian sailed for Montreal in the after-
noon, and arrived on Sunday the 23rd. By the
advice of her courteous captain (Captain Kitchie) we
decided to visit Niagara, instead of going at once to
the Canadian lakes. After one night in Montreal,
we went on to Toronto, and thence to Niagara.

We drove at once to the Clifton House, on the Cana-
dian side, and, after luncheon, walked out to see the
Falls. My father had been there in 1 8 70, and knew how
much more impressive they are when seen gradually.
So we wandered along the Canadian side for nearly
a mile, with the American Falls full in view on our
left, singularly beautiful in themselves, but sadly
spoiled by an enormous hotel built close beside them,
not to mention a paper factory, with its usual tall,
black chimney. But when we arrived at the Horse-

4 JAFAN AS WE SAW IT.

shoe Falls, all was different. No words could ever
really describe them, but perhaps what strikes one
most is the majesty of so enormous a volume of
water, and the fairy-like beauty of the spray, which
rose in a cloud higher than the Fall itself. No
photograph or painting could ever give this sense
of overwhelming power, yet of delicate and all-per-
vading movement. We sat, and walked to various
points of view, and tried to drink in the greys and
greens of the water and the dazzling white of the
foam, until the beauty grew upon us, almost into us,
just as when we studied Eaphael's Transfiguration at
Eome. A brilliant rainbow overshadowed the Fall,
obscured now and then by the mist-like spray, and
then darting up again like a sky-rocket, and forming
a perfect arch once more. The commissionnaire in
charge told us we might have come a thousand times
and not seen such colouring or so perfect an outline,
and he had known the Falls for forty-six years. So
much depends on the wind, atmosphere, and sunshine,
and all on this day were in our favour. We returned
to our hotel feeling richer for life.

The following day we returned to Toronto, and
on the 27th went to Owen Sound, on Lake Huron,
where we were to take the steamer for Fort William,
on the Canadian Pacific Eailway. By this means we
substituted a pleasant trip on the Canadian lakes
for a somewhat uninteresting railway journey of a

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 5

thousand miles. The Manitoba was 300 feet long,
with a fine saloon and comfortable cabins.

It was most difficult to believe we were not at sea.
We were often out of sight of land, and it was very
rough during the night. The next morning we passed
a " boom," or floating mass of pine logs, encircled by
a double row of trunks bound together by iron chains.
It was a quarter of a mile long, and towed by two
steamers.

The next excitement was a whale-back boat, one
of the new freight steamers of the future. It was
shaped like a whale, and had no decks, sails, or
masts, but its ugly iron case was propelled through
the water by powerful driving gear, and had a small
cabin supported on four strong stanchions at one
end. Air was forced below by fans, and these
steamers can go through the waves in a rough sea
and carry 47,000 bushels of wheat. Midday brought
us to Saulte Ste. Marie, a typical Canadian town,
where we passed through a fine steam lock to the
level of Lake Superior. The scene from deck afforded
a good instance of how rapidly civilisation is pene-
trating into the " Wild West." The streets of Saulte
Ste. Marie were already provided with electric cars,
and the long line of the Canadian Pacific with a
movable bridge worked by steam, stretched on either
side of the little town. A second lock was in course
of preparation, and a whale-back boat was waiting

6 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

to descend from Lake Superior. Modern life in its
fullest sense seemed before us, yet it certainly lacked
its usual entourage in the Old World. Within a
quarter of a mile stretched the famous backwoods,
and, nearer still, an Indian was quietly paddling his
canoe down the rapids, as if no nineteenth century had
intervened to rouse his home from its former repose.

The next day found us safely settled in the
Canadian Pacific Eailway cars and en route for Banff,
where we were to meet my brother. The sleeping-
cars, which turn into comfortable drawing-rooms
during the day, made our home for the next two and
a half days ; but, until the Kocky Mountains are
reached, the journey is not exciting, and we were by
no means sorry when, early on the morning of the
1st of September, we steamed into the little station
at Banff. The prairies and endless wheat fields, with
furrows perhaps four miles long, grow wearisome, hour
after hour, though now and then the line passes
through picturesque Indian settlements, and the sun-
sets were always beautiful.

My brother was waiting for us on the platform at
Banff, a pretty mountain village, and we were relieved
to find him looking fairly well, as letters at Montreal
had told us of his dangerous illness at Tokyo in July,
through which the Eev. A. King (S. Andrew's
Mission) and Dr. Howard, an English traveller in
Japan, had nursed him with unwearied devotion.

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 7

We spent four quiet days together at Banff, and
by the 5th felt quite ready to resume our journey
towards Vancouver. We shall never forget the
beauty and excitement of the journey to Glacier
House, where we intended to stay for the Sunday.
Leaving Banff very early, we spent many hours in
the " observation car," a carriage about eighty feet
long, with unglazed windows that allowed an almost
uninterrupted view of the scenery. Higher and
higher we climbed, an engine at either end of the
train, and the curves of the line so extraordinary that
at times they formed a perfect S, and we could see
an engine out of either window at the same moment.
Now we were a thousand feet above a mountain
torrent, " clinging to the side," as the guide-book
would say, and now we passed close beneath glorious
snow mountains, or by quiet glacier lakes, or threaded
our way through the Kicking Horse Pass, or read
" The Great Divide" carved in huge wooden letters
on the watershed of the Rockies. After a rapid
descent to the plain, we passed along the banks of the
Columbia River, and then be^an to climb the ran^e of
the Selkirks, which are in some ways even more beau-
tiful than the Rockies. Late in the afternoon we
reached Glacier House, and spent a quiet Sunday at
the pretty station hotel, at present the only house in
the valley. It was built in a clearing in the great
pine forest, and from outside its door we could see on

8 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

one side the great glacier of the Selkirks and Mt. Sir
Donald, and on the other the snowy peaks of the
Hermit range. We visited the glacier next day, and
standing at the edge the ice rose forty feet above us,
deep blue in colour and clear as water.

From Glacier House we had a day and a half's
journey to Vancouver. The scenery was again
extremely fine, though we passed many of the most
noted places at night, as our train was seven hours
late. Such a delay sounds alarming ; but on the
C. P. E. only one train starts east and another west
each day, and it is hardly surprising if they lose
as many hours during a journey of 3,000 miles as an
ordinary train would lose minutes in one of three
hundred.

Vancouver, which five years ago was " solid bush,"
is now a bright, well-planned city, with broad streets
and electric cars, and every modern convenience
except good footpaths. The energetic vicar, Mr.
Fiennes-Clinton, of S. Luke's Church, claimed my
father and brother at once for a missionary meeting,
and Sister Frances, a fellow-passenger on the
Parisian, gave us a warm welcome the next day at
the Church House, where she and other ladies con-
duct a hospital and other self-supporting work among
the numerous emigrants and settlers of Vancouver.

At 5 p.m. on September 9th we went on board the
Empress of Japan (Captain Lee), the fine vessel

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 9

in which my brother had just crossed the Pacific. It
is 4,500 miles from Yokohama to Vancouver ; but in
this voyage the Empress of Japan "had beaten the
record," and accomplished the whole distance in
about ten days and a half, so that the mail she
carried arrived in London twenty- one days after it
left Yokohama.

The return voyage took thirteen days, but we
only kept up an average daily run of 350 miles,
and Could easily have exceeded it by a greater ex-
penditure of coal. We were much impressed by the
loneliness of the Pacific Ocean. My father noticed
a sail on the horizon on September 10th, but this
proved to be our last sight of any fellow- voyagers until
we arrived at Yokohama on the 23rd. However, the
days passed quickly. The ship was crowded with
passengers, of whom the greater number were going
to China ; but others, like ourselves, Colonel and Mrs.
Howard Vincent, Mr. and Mrs. Walters (of Yoko-
hama), and various members of the missions at Tokyo,
were returning to Japan, or expected to make a short
visit there. The captain gave his sanction to daily
morning prayer in the music saloon, and each Sunday
my father celebrated Holy Communion at 8 a.m., and
we had a crowded morning and evening service in
the large dining saloon.

As we went further north the weather became
bitterly cold, and on the 17th we were within sixty

10 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

miles of the Aleutian Islands, and saw Mt. Baker, a
dazzling cone of snow rising out of the water. On
the 16th we crossed the meridian line, and therefore
lost the day, excepting the few hours before 8 a.m.
It did not make much difference to us, who were sail-
ing west, but passengers to America gain an extra
day, and are often perplexed to know what to do
with a double New Year or Easter.

On the 22nd we passed through the edge of a ty-
phoon. The heat became most oppressive, the baro-
meter fell rapidly, and rain came down in torrents.
The wind blew in sudden squalls, and from time to
time a wave dashed over the ship, and the passengers
indulged in a good many gloomy speculations as to
how even an Empress would stand a real typhoon.
But to the relief of all, the wind veered suddenly to
the north. We had passed through the circle of the
typhoon, and all danger was soon over.

The sea was very rough all day, and we admired
the energy of a few passengers who got up a dance
on the quarter-deck at night, in spite of the rolling
which caused them to waltz in a giddy fashion against
the bulwarks.

At 8 p.m. we all crowded to the side to see the
light of Cape Inobouye (Howling Dog Promontory),
which, as it flashed over the dark waters, told us that
the long voyage across the Pacific was nearly over,
and Japan would greet us the following morning.

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 11

Sept 23rd. — The 23rd was a dull rainy day, but
we anchored in Yokohama, harbour by 7 a.m., and
from that moment the fun began. Dozens of " sam-
pans " (canoes) surrounded the Empress, full of the
quaintest Japanese, who crowded to the ship's side
and climbed up the rope-ladder, eager to help in the
unloading. Some were extremely lightly clothed,
and others wore long dressing-gowns of Liberty blue
cotton, but all looked in the best of tempers, and it
was quite difficult to withdraw our heads from the
port-holes in order to attend to the rescue of our
baggage from the hold. This proved to be a serious
task, but at last it was safely accomplished, and, by
the kindness of Mr. Walters, of Yokohama, we went
ashore in the consul's boat. It was not unlike a
gondola in shape, and the sailors at either end
pulled a clumsy oar and gently crooned to themselves
meanwhile. We landed a few minutes after 9 a.m.,
and found ourselves at once in the hands of the
neatest set of little Japanese custom-house officers.
We had nothing contraband in our boxes ; so after
a rapid examination they were passed without any
difficulty, except indeed, one tiny pot of " pomade
divine," sealed with red wax, which, until ex-
planations were given, was evidently considered
to contain dynamite at the very least, It was a
thrilling moment — that landing in Japan — in spite of
all the outside details of luggage, etc., that usually

12 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

interfere with thrilling moments in long journeys,
and we all felt it to be so.

Yokohama, like Vancouver, is a very recent creation,
but it has some handsome buildings in foreign style,
and the motley crowd in the streets and the Japanese
shops fascinated us at once. We lunched at the Club
hotel, and soon afterwards seven jinrikshas drew up to
the door, and away we rushed to the railway station,
from which an hour's journey would take us to Tokyo.
A first ride in a jinriksha — it is a pleasure never to
be forgotten ! The return to a perambulator — for such
it truly is — brings an almost childish sense of enjoy-
ment, and when you substitute carriage shafts for the
front wheel, and a small merry-faced Japanese for an
English nursery -maid, the illusion is complete ! The
men were dressed in dark blue cotton and wore big
mushroom hats ; they splashed gaily in and out of
the puddles, and, as they hurried round the corners,
uttered sharp cries of warning to the foot-passengers
and other jinriksha men in the way.

Arrived at the station a new group of Japanese
attracted our attention every moment. Here a woman
shuffled along in wooden clogs, carrying her baby on
her back, and close beside her stood a clerk or student,
in the usual blue or grey kimono (or dressing-gown),
but with a flannel shirt, no necktie, and his feet in
side-spring boots ! We had scarcely realised how all
ordinary Japanese would use wooden clogs (geta).

FROM LIVERPOOL TO YOKOHAMA. 13

Their feet are covered with socks (tabi), made of strong
white cotton material, and with a division for the great
toe, through which the thong is passed that keeps on
the clog. How it keeps it on, it is difficult for English
people to understand ; but, of course, the Japanese
shuffle along, and do not run, or, if obliged to run, they
either go barefoot or use straw sandals, or dark blue
tabi. All the grown-up women (about twenty years
of age and upwards) wear dark coloured kimonos, with
a purple or striped sash, embroidered often with the
family crest ; but the children and girls wear brilliant
colours, scarlet, blue and yellow, and reminded us
often of Italians by their graceful picturesqueness.
With a few slight, but important, modifications the
Japanese national costume would be perfect, and it is
much to be hoped that the good sense of the people
will discover this.

We got into the train and started in high spirits
for Tokyo. From the windows we could notice the
carefully cultivated fields of rice and maize, etc., and
the peasants in their curious straw rain cloaks and
paper umbrellas. One could not resist the feeling
that all the fire-places in Japan had been ransacked
for an emergency, rather than the English use of um-
brellas in fire-places being the anomaly ! The journey
was all too short before we reached the Shimbashi
station at Tokyo. Bishop Williams, Mrs. Kirkes, and
several Japanese friends were waiting there to greet

14 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

us, with much bowing and many kind words of
welcome to Japan. A little English bow looked cold
and ineffective indeed by those of the Japanese,
and we tried hard daily to improve into the correct
national style, bending nearly double in ordinary
interviews, and falling on our faces on special occa-
sions.

( 15 )

CHAPTEK II.

TOKYO.

Tokyo (formerly Yedo), the capital of Japan, is a
city of over a million inhabitants, built on the
shores of the Bay of Tokyo, with Yokohama, eighteen
miles distant, as its port. It is popularly supposed
to cover an area of a hundred square miles ; but its
narrow streets and low, nearly flat-roofed, houses pre-
vent it from looking particularly impressive, unless
from some exceptionally good standpoint, such as the
dome of the Greek Cathedral, from which you can
distinguish the grand sweeping roofs of the temples,
and form some idea of the strange intermingling of
native and foreign architecture, and the dense masses
of population crowded into the great modern capital
of the Mikado's Empire. It is the centre of govern-
ment, and of the University, and contains many famous
schools, which attract no less than 100,000 students
from all parts of the Empire. The Mikado makes it
his home for the greater part of the year, and lives in
a palace built in the shape of a Shinto temple, thus
recalling the days when every loyal Japanese owned
him to be divine. It is in the fullest sense the centre

16 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

of the Empire, and any work that is intended to
attain ultimately a national influence must begin in
Tokyo.

For the last few years my brother, the Bishop in
Japan, has lived in Shiba, one of the healthiest districts
of the city, in a house which he built as a centre for
his own work and for that of S. Andrew's University
Mission, founded by him in 1887,* to gain all possible
influence among the educated classes of the capital,
and to train the native clergy of the Church in Japan.
The house is wooden, built in foreign (European)
style, in the grounds of S. Andrew's Church (S.P.G.).
Shortly before our arrival a wing had been added,
which connected it with the Theological College, and
made the group of Mission buildings both prominent
and attractive.

On our arrival at Tokyo on September 23rd, we
drove up rapidly from Shimbashi station, and found
several members of the Mission (Mr. Cholmondeley,
Mr. Freese, and Mr. Gardner), and the Japanese
students of the Divinity School, grouped round the
door to welcome us. My brother showed us over the
various rooms, which brought back many recollections
of his former homes at Cambridge, Delhi, and Fram-
lingham. They are not large, but well-planned, with
a dining-room on the right and a library on the left of
the entrance hall. The library has folding-doors
* See Note C.

TOKYO. 17

opening into the drawing-room, and both rooms look
on the garden and S. Andrew's Church. The study is
upstairs, and the little private Chapel is close to the
dining-room. His servants are Japanese, all men
except the cook's wife, who was introduced to me as I
sat in his study that evening. At first I could not see
her, but at last I discovered her, prostrate at my feet
— a great surprise to me then, though a little later
on I felt quite at home with Japanese customs.

At five o'clock we attended Evensong in S. Andrew's
Church, and thanksgivings were offered for our safe
journey from England. After dinner my brother
took me to S. Hilda's Mission House, where the
members, Miss Thornton, Nurse Grace, and Miss
Snowden, were waiting to receive me with the warmest
of welcomes.* My father and Mrs. Bickersteth stayed
at S. Andrew's House all the while we were in Tokyo,
but for ten days of our visit I slept at S. Hilda's
House. Both Missions are supported by the mission-
ary Guild of S. Paul,f and being its secretary, I was
anxious to see what I could of their work.

I was in time for Compline that night in S. Hilda's
Chapel, and shall never forget how it touched me to
notice the deep, earnest reverence of the Japanese
workers and pupils of the Mission, as they repeated
the Creed, and to realise that their knowledge was the

* S. Hilda's Community Mission was founded by the Bishop
at the same time as S. Andrew's Mission, 1887. — See Note C.
t See Note B.

C

18

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

outcome of the work of our Guild in England. It
seemed a fitting close to our first day in Tokyo.

NDRSE GRACE. MISS TKOBNTON. MISS BULLOCK.

S. HILDA'S MISSION, TOKYO.

MISS M. SNOWDEN.

Sept. 29. — My father came early next morning to
inspect the various branches of S. Hilda's Mission,

TOKYO. 19

which include a School, Hospital, and Home for train-
ing native mission women. He writes in his diary :
" We walked to S. Hilda's and saw all over that ex-
cellently appointed home ; everything is contrived for
patient practical work." A few words may enable our
readers to follow him in his visit.

S. Hilda's House is built in a district of Tokyo
called Azabu (the capital being divided into districts
exactly corresponding to the Kensington, West-
minster, etc., of London), and is about a quarter of
a mile from S. Andrew's Church and Mission House.
It is a large house, built entirely of wood, in foreign
style, and stands in an extensive garden entered from
a quiet road by a wooden gateway, on which the
name of the school is painted in Japanese characters.

Passing a little lodge, the home of the gardener,
you go up a narrow carriage drive with the hospital
on your left, and the Home for Mission Women just
beyond it, and your jinriksha draws up before the
hall-door of the Mission House. There are pretty
flowering shrubs and flower beds behind you,
the Mission ladies being deeply interested in their
garden. Entering the hall you are in the centre of
the house, and see a pretty spiral staircase of
polished Japanese wood. You must then look into
a little waiting-room for Japanese teachers, and visit,
still further on your left, the dining-room, used by
the junior members of the Mission as a sitting-

C 2

20 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

room. The large and pretty drawing-room at the
back of the house opens into the verandah and
garden.

Beyond the dining-room is a long passage, where
" Silence " on the walls marks the way to the
vestry and Chapel, which would hold perhaps fifty
persons. It is seated with chairs, and has a rood
screen of carved Japanese! wood like light oak, pre-
sented by the Bishop. The beautifully carved Holy
Table and reredos, presented in memory of the late
Mrs. Thornton, are of the same wood, and with
their brass cross and candles, etc., stand out well
against the hangings and sacrarium carpet presented
last summer by the Bishop. The Chapel is lighted
by hanging lamps, and three services are held there
daily — shortened Matins at 7 a.m., Sext 12.30, with
special intercessions, and Compline at 9 p.m. They
are attended by the members, matrons, and mission
women, etc., and by some of the pupils of the school,
but not by any as yet unbaptized. Miss Thornton
read the Office as Member-in-charge and Nurse Grace
played the organ. In those quiet little services,
which I followed as best I could in the English
translation, I used to feel I was truly in the very
heart of the work of S. Hilda's Mission.

But you must return to the hall-door, where
exactly facing you is the large schoolroom, with
adj oining class rooms for the kindergarten and middle

TOKYO. 21

school. The schoolroom is fitted with English desks
and benches ; all is as orderly as an English High
school, but the pupils are in the prettiest Japanese
costume, and with their curious inkstands and paint-
brush pens, their low bows and whispered English
welcome, they are a very attractive and interesting
sight to a visitor. The kitchen department is on the
right, fitted with a Japanese stove (hibachi), out of
which the cook manages to produce dishes to suit the
taste of both Japanese and English residents in the
Mission House.

Upstairs are the members' bedrooms, the sitting-
room of the Member-in-charge, and the school-girls'
dormitories, with a separate cubicle for each girl.
Behind the house is a good-sized strip of lawn, with
a fine view over the Bay of Tokyo. A swing has
been put up for the pupils, and is warmly appreciated
by them in their morning recess.

Leaving the large Mission House you are soon at
the Home for training Mission Women. It is a
regular Japanese house, with a deep tiled roof and
paper screen walls, shut in at night by the wooden
shutters or amado. The floors are covered with
matting, and there is therefore no admission in shoes !
In it live the valuable matron, Mrs. Ito, the four
mission women under training, the nurses and the
Christian girls of the needlework school, who gain a
livelihood by taking orders from English ladies, and

22 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

promise already to furnish candidates for the work of
mission women.

I paid a visit with Miss Thornton to this house,
shortly before my father's arrival that morning. We
entered in true Japanese style, falling on our knees
and then on our faces, sitting on the floor and
bowing our heads again at each polite remark. Then
we inspected the various rooms, the needlework girls
showing their work, which would have done credit
to a high English standard. Two of the mission
women were Catechists' wives, learning how to help
their husbands in teaching, and another was a poor
woman, a hospital patient, who had become devoted
to Nurse Grace during her illness, and grief at the
loss of her baby. Each had her story, and as we
heard them one by one, and saw the well-ordered
house, we felt that the Guild which supported them
was no matter of subscriptions only, but a living work
with earnest yet very happy responsibilities.

A little nearer the road stands S. Hilda's Hospital,
the first stone of which was laid by the Duchess of Con-
naught in 1890. It is a cheerful-looking building, in
foreign (European) style, with French windows open-
ing on a verandah, and two large wards, one for men
and the other for women, and two small ones for
separate cases, besides all the necessary waiting-
rooms, bath-rooms, &c. It is carried on according to
Japanese ideas, except that, for the sake of health,

TOKYO. 23

iron bedsteads are used, instead of the patients
sleeping on the floor, according to their own custom.
The beds are covered with scarlet futons or quilts,
which gave a gay appearance to the wards. While
we were in Tokyo, to our great disappointment, the
hospital was closed, owing to the legal difficulties
raised about the lease by the landlord, Count Shi-
madzu, but we went all over the building, and, by
a visit to the University Practising Hospital, could
get a good idea of what S. Hilda's Hospital would be
when occupied. In one important point we found
that all ordinary Japanese hospitals differ from
English, namely, in that of visitors, who are
allowed all day, and all night too, if they desire !
It must be confessed our astonishment and amuse-
ment were very great, when we saw each patient
surrounded by relations or friends who were smok-
ing and drinking tea as if they were in their
own houses. In S. Hilda's Hospital, on the contrary,
Nurse Grace has regular visiting hours, and told us
she had never met with the slightest objection to the
plan from either patients or relations.

The Holy Charity Dispensary is attached to the
Hospital, and is built in the garden of the Mission
House. It is attended by an increasing number
of the poorest Japanese, and as it was not in-
cluded in the objections raised by the landlord, we
saw it in full working order. The doctor was sitting

24 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

in the outer room to give the necessary interviews,
the dispenser in the inner one to distribute the
medicines, and a poor little girl-patient, not nearly
as tall as the counter, was waiting to have her pre-
scription made up.

The last Report tells us that the number of patients
at S. Hilda's Hospital and Dispensary had increased
from 411 in 1890 to 1,059 in 1891, and the attendances
from 1,000 to 5,265. It is, in fact, rapidly becoming-
one of the most important branches of S. Hilda's Mis-
sion, none being more willing to listen to the teaching
given them than the patients who have proved for
themselves the meaning of true Christian charity.

Leaving S. Hilda's House we returned to S. An-
drew's in time for the midday intercession service
in the private Chapel, and, after tiffin, my brother
took us a long drive round Tokyo.

The Mikado's Palace was the first point of interest.
It, and many other public buildings (including the
British Legation), are built within the limits of
the Castle. This is an enclosure of some four miles
in extent, in the centre of Tokyo, partly surrounded
by a fine moat, and entered by several remarkable
gateways of ancient Japanese architecture.

The Mikado was at home, so we could only view
the Palace from outside, but we called at the Legation,
where we were kindly received by the Minister, Mr.
Fraser, and his wife.

TOKYO. 25

We then drove to a distant part of the city
called Ushigome, in order to visit the little Mis-
sion Church, school, and dispensary, then in charge
of the Rev. Armine King (S. Andrew's Mission),
but since entrusted to a Japanese clergyman. The
centre of a small crowd of wondering Japanese,
we went first to the Church, which would hold per
haps 100 people, and then to the day-school and
dispensary. What was the lesson they impressed
upon us ? Surely this — the value of missionary work
concentrated on a given district in a large city. In
such a station the work is begun by the foreigner,
but in time he gathers round him a band of Japanese
converts, and trains them in the life of an ordinary
English parish. By his teaching and their example,
constant opportunities occur for direct missionary
work among the surrounding heathen. The Church
is the centre of all his work, and gradually one thing
after another can be entrusted to the Japanese, and
the foreign missionary can move on to a situation of
greater need. But he leaves with the assurance that the
work will not flag with his departure ; for a Japanese
priest is left in charge, and another stone has been
laid in the national Church so dear to the heart of the
Bishop and all who work under him.

Mission Churches like Ushigome suggest the
thought, " What will be the Japanese ecclesiastical
architecture of the future ? " At present it is very

26 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

difficult to say. The Christians as yet shrink from
anything approaching the designs of the ancient
temples, beautiful and appropriate as they would
often be. Yet, as the Church increases, one can
scarcely doubt that the intense patriotism and artistic
feeling of the nation will demand an outlet. The
churches will then surely be Japanese, not feeble
imitations of Gothic, and impregnated, as are the
ancient temples, with the associations of heathen-
ism, it is not impossible that their exquisite
carving may in the future be redeemed for
Christianity.

I returned to S. Hilda's by 5.30, and gladly con-
sented to the proposal of the Mission ladies that
I should accompany them in their usual Thursday
visit to a dispensary at Kyobashi, another of the
S. Andrew's Mission districts. Twenty-four hours
in Japan had by no means dimmed my enjoy-
ment of a jinriksha ride, and I cheerfully resigned
myself to the charge of a delightful little Japanese
with a white mushroom-shaped hat and a Chinese
lantern. Looking down the long streets, with the
little open shops lighted by oil lamps, and the ever-
moving lanterns of the jinrikshas, I felt I was in an
Eastern city indeed, with a strong touch of fairyland
by night, whatever might be its realities by day ! On
we went, in and out among the numerous canals,
passing through a Matsuri, or religious fair, in which

10KY0. 27

commerce and pleasure were apparently admitted, but
all religion was strictly excluded. We stopped at a
house in a small street of Kyobaslii, and knew by tlie red
cross on the lantern that we had reached our destina-
tion, the Dispensary of Holy Cross Church at Kyobaslii.
Bowing low we entered the house — no front door, no
hall — but, taking off our shoes, we stepped straight
from the street on the floor of the house raised a foot
or two above the ground. Japanese houses have two
sets of screens, which form their walls and windows,
the outer one of wood only, the inner of light wood
frames with thin white paper pasted over them. All
day long the outer ones are entirely and the inner
partially pushed aside, and the life of the house is
therefore visible from the street or garden. In an
inner room, that is, with the screen towards the street
closed, Nurse Grace had her dispensary — a table on
which to mix medicines, a cupboard to hold the drugs,
a Japanese wooden pillow for the patients, and one
chair for the doctor, which was kindly offered to me.
The patients sat on the floor of the outer room, men,
women and children, each with their dispensary
ticket and bottles wrapped neatly in handkerchiefs,
or a cockle shell to contain ointments. As Nurse
Grace and Miss Thornton came in, they prostrated
themselves on the floor, and continued to do so at
intervals during the evening whenever the mission
ladies spoke to them. The very poorest of the poor,

28 JAPAN AS WE SAW II.

they never seemed to lose their quiet courtesy to each
other or to us, and their trust and gratitude towards our
missionaries were very touching to see. I sat there for
perhaps an hour and a half, and as I watched Nurse
Grace and Miss Thornton ministering to them in
mind and body, I felt that here again the Guild was
being already rewarded tenfold for anything it is
doing to further such work in Japan. After the
medicines had been distributed, Miss Thornton sat
among the people and taught them very simply.
The look of interest deepened on their faces as she
proceeded, and I think they would have listened for
hours. One deaf woman had some special teaching
given to her afterwards, and she told Miss Thornton
that she folded her hands to God every night now,
and felt sure it had helped her. At last it was time
to go, but before we left, the owner of the house
appeared with a dainty tray of tea — blue cups with
no handle, and no milk or sugar, but nevertheless
containing very refreshing tea — which she presented
kneeling at our feet, and which we accepted with
many bows. Then returning to our jinrikshas we
came back once more to the weird fairyland life of
the streets, but with a sense on my part that a deep
meaning had been added to their story, and that
behind their outer attractiveness was the suffering
and the deep spiritual need which only our Faith
could soothe and satisfy.

TOKYO.

29

Sept. 25. — A lovely morning, hot as an English
midsummer. I walked up to S. Andrew's House,
asking my way of a Japanese policeman, who in
answer to my " Sakae Clio ? " (the name of the
street), replied, in English, " Thees way." The police

JAPANESE SAMURAT, OR TWOSWORDED WARRIOR.

are, as a rule, men of good position, that is, samurai,
or military retainers of the former daimyos (feudal
lords) of Japan. They wear white in summer and
dark blue in winter, and carry swords. So capital is
their supervision of the streets that my brother told

30 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

us it is possible to go into any part of Tokyo at night
without danger of molestation.

We spent the morning in a visit to the Ladies'
Institute, a school for high-class girls, then in charge of
Miss MacEae (late of Baker Street High School) and of
several other English mistresses. It has fifty pupils,
including a little princess, a relation of the Mikado.
It is in the hands of a Japanese committee of
professors, merchants, etc., who forbid direct religious
instruction in school hours, but not otherwise. My
father notes in his diary : " The indirect influence for
good of the Institute is very great on the highest
Tokyo society." Some of the pupils have been
baptized, and others are Christians in heart, though
family influence prevents their coming forward for
baptism. The terms of the original proposal of the
committee were drawn up by Count Ito, Minister
of Education at that time, and were very curious.
They said indeed no religious instruction could be
given in school hours, but that no barrier would
be placed on Christian influence out of school hours,
and that they "would prefer a Christian mistress
to an Agnostic one." The Institute was started in
a picturesque Yashiki, or palace of a former daimyo,
but its present quarters are a strange contrast. The
Government have lent the committee their Engi-
neering College for a term of five years. It is a huge
brick building, erected in foreign style, with sixty-

TOKYO. 31

six oblong rooms of great height and all the same
size. Both house and rooms furnish another curious
instance of how Japanese art seems to commit suicide
when it attempts to imitate anything foreign, not
only in architecture, but also in dress or china, and
to a certain extent in furniture.

In the afternoon we visited the famous Shiba
temples and woods, which are within an easy walk
of S. Andrew's House. The temples, some eight in
number, were built in memory of the Tokugawa, or
latest dynasty of Shoguns (military rulers of Japan),
two of whom were buried at Nikko and six in Ueno,
at the opposite end of Tokyo. Next to those at Nikko,
these Shiba temples are considered to be specimens
of Japanese art at its finest period, and we had a
most interesting afternoon examining them. They
are made of wood, gorgeously lacquered, gilded, and
carved, both outside and in ; the carving of the pillars
and open-work frieze of buds and flowers being in
every case exquisitely painted in the colours of nature.
Each temple is divided into three parts — an outer
gallery, connecting corridor, and inner sanctum, and
by tying cotton slippers over our shoes we were free
to wander where we pleased. Buddhist priests were
in charge, but we noticed very few images of Buddha
or Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, such as we saw
so frequently afterwards in other temples. In front of
the scarlet lacquer altars, with their tall candlesticks

32 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

and flowers, were curious stands for incense, and the
sacred Buddhist scriptures. No worshippers knelt
before the altars, and services are only held twice
a month by the Buddhist priests.

The effect of the temples from outside is marred by
the high black wood screens fitted closely round them
for protection from the weather, but the entrance gate
and courtyard are very effective. The large inner
court is partially filled with 212 bronze lanterns,
votive offerings from retainers of the Shoguns, about
four feet high, and illuminated, we were told, on
festival nights. The Japanese consider the souls of
the Shoguns live in the temples, but their bodies are
buried in very plain stone tombs in an outer court,
a strange contrast to the gorgeous buildings close at
hand.

We wandered among the tall dark fir-trees of the
beautiful gardens, which surrounded the temple, and
soon found ourselves in a very different scene. A
large new temple, in which a seven days' festival was
being held, had been lately erected to replace one
destroyed by fire. We were very anxious to witness
a Buddhist ceremonial, so entered quietly, leaving our
shoes on the steps outside. But there was no quiet
inside. Two or three hundred worshippers were
paying their devotions, and the scene was indeed a
strange one. I could see how for a moment any
visitor is reminded of a Eoman church by the gaudy

TOKYO. 33

colouring of the altar, the paper flowers in the vases,
and the gorgeous robes of the priests ; but there the
likeness ends. The great musical gong that sounded
every few moments to rouse the gods, the ugly
wooden clappers beaten without ceasing for the same
purpose, the wailing prayers in Chinese or Sanscrit,
often not understood by the priests themselves, the
utter irreverence of many of the people (a large party
were drinking tea during the service), and, above all,
the overpowering sense that the worship is directed
to nothing, no vital Christian faith underlying all, as
in Eomanism — no, never for a moment could a just
comparison be made between them. Buddhism, as we
saw it in Japan, is heathen to its very core, and the
effect of this and of every other Buddhist temple
that we visited, was to deepen our pity for the
Japanese, who have, in numberless instances, never
heard of any other creed, and to strengthen our con-
viction of the utter soullessness and dreariness of
their worship. We felt that, could the members of
our English Missionary Societies and Guilds visit a
few such temples as we saw that day, they w^ould
forget all anxiety about ways and means ; they would
send out appeals that could not fail to quicken our
Church at home into tenfold energy on behalf of
Japan.

We drove back to S. Andrew's House, stopping for
a few minutes at a preaching-station in charge of the

34 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Mission. It was a small house, built in a prominent
position ; and one side of it being as usual open to the
street, any lecture in the lower rooms was certain
to attract passers-by. The Japanese managed it
almost entirely themselves, and we were told that
several persons had been brought to baptism by its
means.

Sept. 27. — We started at eleven o'clock in jinrikshas
to visit the temple and graves of the forty-seven
Eonins. These were a band of Japanese heroes who
have been held in reverence by their countrymen for
nearly 200 years as the very soul of honour and
chivalry. Their story was, shortly, as follows : Asano,
their lord, an honest man, had been grossly insulted
by Kira, another nobleman of contemptible character.
They fought in the royal palace ; Kira fled, and Asano
was compelled, by Japanese law, to commit suicide ;
his castle was forfeited, and his clan disbanded. But
forty-seven of his followers became ronins (wanderers),
and banded themselves together to avenge him.
They lulled Kira into a false security, obtained
entrance to his castle and murdered him, he having,
in a cowardly fashion, according to Japanese ideas,
refused to commit suicide. Then, having laid his
head on their lord's grave, they submitted without a
shudder to the official sentence, which ordered them
to commit suicide separately, and their bodies were
buried in the same temple grounds with that of their

D 2

TOKYO. 37

lord. Incense still burns before the grave of the
leader, and sprays of bamboo are laid on the graves
of his followers, showing us that this strange story
of revenge and bloodshed, with its one redeeming
point of unswerving loyalty, has survived all the
changes of the past thirty years in Japan.

In the afternoon about two hundred and eighty of
the six hundred Christians of our Church in Tokyo
(representatives of the English and American Mis-
sions) met in S. Andrew's Divinity School, to present
an address of welcome to my father. He replied
through an interpreter, and it was indeed a most
interesting scene. The meeting began with some
hymns and prayers in Japanese, after which the
pupils of S. Hilda's School presented to him, through
their master, a beautiful painted scroll or kakemono,
by one of the best artists in Tokyo. The party
then adjourned to Archdeacon Shaw's garden, where
a very successful photograph was taken, not one out
of two hundred persons having moved, and we were
finally invited to watch a fascinating exhibition of
jugglers and conjurors, and to join in a feast of tea
and cakes. Every detail of the afternoon was
arranged by a Japanese committee, and admirably
carried out.

Sept 27. — Our first Sunday in Japan. We all went
to the early Celebration of Holy Communion in
S. Andrew's Church, a pretty red-brick building,

38 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

holding about two hundred people, and in charge of
Archdeacon Shaw (S.P.GL). The service (8 a.m,)
was attended by a large number of Japanese, whose
quiet reverence throughout was very remarkable.
The men occupied one side of the church and the
women the other (a universal practice in Japan), their
wooden shoes being arranged in neat rows at the
door, and appropriated afterwards by their owners
without any apparent difficulty. At that time
S. Andrew's Church had no bell to call the people to
service, but my father started a subscription while
we were in Tokyo for a set of tubular bells, which
have since been sent out, and were rung for the first
time on Easter Day 1892, to the great delight of the
Japanese. They would not have sanctioned a single
bell, as in Japan this is an invariable summons toka
fire, a light scaffolding with a " look-out " for the
firemen and a bell being a prominent object in every
city.

At Matins the church was crowded with English,
mostly residents in Tokyo and Yokohama, when my
father preached on the missionary aspect of a
foreigner's life in Japan, taking for his text the four
comfortable words in the Holy Communion Office.
In the afternoon, Dr. Howard, to whom we owed so
much for his care of my brother during his recent
illness, took me to see Mrs. Kirkes, a widow lady
who has devoted her life to work among the highest

TOKYO. 39

classes in Tokyo. She invites them to her beautiful
house in Nagata Clio, winning an entree into theirs
as a valued friend. We had an interesting discussion
on the present state of thought in Tokyo. She said
(l) that the present anti-foreign feeling was politi-
cal, not deep-seated nor spontaneous ; (2) that the
adoption by some of the ladies of foreign dress (which
the Empress still orders to be worn at Court) had been
a help to them in their effort to improve their social
position, though, of course, from an artistic point of
view, it was to be deplored ; (3) that the influence of
Buddhism had practically ceased among the educated
classes, and a widespread atheism had taken its place ;
(4) as to her own work and friends, that she had
persuaded some of the ladies to attend fortnightly
lectures on Christianity by the Be v. J. Imai Toshi-
michi at the English Embassy last Lent, and that a
magazine she edited had a good circulation among
them.

Evensong in S. Hilda's Chapel, and a general
gathering of the members of S. Andrew's and
S. Hilda's Missions at my brother's house, closed
the day.

40 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER III.

NIKKO AND IKAO.

We left Tokyo by an early train on Monday morning,
September 28th, driving to Ueno station, some four
miles from S. Andrew's House, and gaining a good
idea of the dense population and size of the great city
in our ride through its streets. Certainly Tokyo was
a great surprise to us ; the long narrow streets with-
out foot-paths — the small picturesque shops of one
or two storeys, their line broken in many cases
by gardens or temples, or the palaces of some old
feudal lord (daimyo) — the utter contrast in every detail
to the life and appearance of a European city, made
our rides and drives a continual interest, and will give
a completely different framework to the picture of
our Mission that we had mentally made during the
past few years.

The train, on the contrary, that we found at Ueno
station was Western in the extreme, the only Japan-
ese feature being a dainty little table, arranged for
water or tea, in our carriage, and the discovery that,
for about a penny three farthings, we could at one
station buy a teapot, tea-cup and tea !

NIKKO AND IKAO. 41

Our journey, of some five hours, took us through
numberless rice fields now just ready for harvest, and
varied by fields of " lily roots," maize, and soba, all
used as food by the Japanese. It was the most fertile
plain in Japan, and every square yard was carefully
cultivated, while the peasants, with their big paper
umbrellas, fans, and chopsticks, made me feel as if
all the screens and Japanese sketches in our English
houses had come to life and were walking about before
my eyes ! But as we approached Nikko, the country
became much wilder. We slowly climbed the
wooded hills, and at times the railway passed and
even crossed the two magnificent avenues of crypto-
meria, twenty miles long, and from a hundred to a
hundred and twenty feet high, which seem a very
fitting approach to the tomb of Japan's greatest hero
— Iyeyasu, the founder of the last dynasty of
Shoguns, or military rulers.

We arrived at Nikko about 2 p.m., and jinrikshas
soon took us to our hotel, about a mile and-a-half s
ride from the station. Passing through the straggling
village, we crossed the pretty arched bridge over the
river, and hurried past the long line of shops, with
their attractive collections of monkey-skins and black
wood carving. That afternoon and the next morning
we devoted to studying the gorgeous temples and
pagoda, which were built early in the last century,
when Japanese art is supposed to have touched its

42 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

highest point, and which lead up to the quiet spot
among the cryptomeria where Iyeyasu is buried.
Two distinct impressions of Nikko were left on our
mind, for that first afternoon was damp and sunless,
and the great trees towered above us through the
mist, and the gold and colours of the temple roofs
and walls were subdued into a soft dreamy beauty
which we shall never forget. The next morning
was brilliant in the extreme, each colour was intensi-
fied by the sunlight, and each building looked like a
lovely mosaic set in the dark background of solemn
fir-trees. We passed through the various courts,
studying the elaborate carving and gold lacquer that
decorated each roof and gateway, and having our at-
tention called to the reversed pattern on one section
of a column — an intentional blemish made by the
Japanese for fear the gods should be jealous of absolute
perfection in human work, and visit their jealousy on
the house of Iyeyasu. Then, taking off our shoes,
we went into the inner shrine of the temple — purely
Shinto, which contained no idols, but only the
goheij or strips of white paper, to attract the gods'
attention, and a polished mirror typical of illumina-
tion. It had that strange sense of utter dreariness
and shallowness that weighs so heavily on one in every
heathen temple.

After climbing two hundred steps through the grove
of cryptomeria to the graveyard, we sat for a while

NIKKO AND IKAO.

45

near the tomb, with its massive bronze urn and in-
cense burners, and returned to our hotel in time for
a delightful mountain expedition to Lake Chusenji.
We were the merriest party in the world that after-
noon, as, with two men to each jinriksha, we made our
way through the lovely valley of Nikko. Crossing the
stream with its curious basket-work breakwater filled
with stones, we slowly climbed the mountain side,

FROM A PHOTOGRAPH OF CARVING AT NIKKO.

stopping now and then for some tea at a wayside
" Cha ya " (tea house), and admiring the magnificent
views of the surrounding country. Chusenji is a
mountain village, built on the edge of the beautiful
lake of the same name, and has a very famous
temple. We noticed rows of long sheds as we entered
the village, where pilgrims find shelter at great
festivals, but had not sufficient time to visit the
temple itself, as our watches warned us to start

46 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

again almost immediately if we were to be in Nikko
before dark. The return journey was very exciting.
We dashed down the sharp zigzag path into the
valley, our men having certainly no pity for ladies'
nerves ! One acted as a drag, and the other, rushing
ahead, pulled with all his might, as if about to throw
himself, his light machine, and its occupant, over the
edge of the precipice. But, no ! Just as we drew
breath in preparation for the impending accident, they
slowed down to a trot that exactly swung us round the
dangerous curve, and I, who was in front, had the en-
joyment of watching how my next neighbour endured
each ordeal, until by a final rush we were again in the
valley, and could watch our panting runners as they
washed their hands and faces in a little mountain
stream before taking us down the long winding road to
Nikko. (N.B. — Jinriksha men are, or should be, strict
teetotalers, as they find stimulants shorten their lives.)
We intended to visit the temples of Iyemitsu,
Iyeyasu's grandson, next morning, but we were pre-
vented by a typhoon, a somewhat severe one, which
made going out a sheer impossibility. However, by
2 p.m. the torrents of rain ceased, and Mrs. Bicker-
steth and I started in jinrikshas to do a little shopping
in Nikko, my father preceding us on foot. But we
had quite mistaken the force of the typhoon during
the morning in our sheltered hotel. As we got into
the gully leading to Nikko our jinrikshas were nearly

NIKKO AND IKAO. 49

blown over, the road was flooded with water, and
every minute or two showers of spray were blown
along by the wind for some fifty to a hundred feet
above the stream, now a raging torrent. Any
progress seemed a very damp and doubtful affair,,
and we soon gave it up and returned to the hotel,
followed shortly by my father, who had also got very
wet in his attempt to find his way through the heavy
storm to Nikko. But even then the wonders of a
typhoon were scarcely over, for to our amazement,
when, only an hour later, well wrapped up, we
faced the same road to get to the station, we found
the stream scarcely rougher than usual, the spray de-
parted, and only the broken road and two houses
crushed by a landslip to tell that the lovely afternoon
had been preceded by such a morning. We reached
the station at four o'clock, and went down the short
piece of line to Utsunomiya, where we were to spend
the night in a purely Japanese hotel.

We arrived about six o'clock, and our luggage was
seized at once by the hotel porter — such individuals
are generally dressed in dark blue cotton, with the
name of the hotel stamped in white on their backs—
and we followed him on foot to the hotel, which was
just the other side of the road. It was a large two-
storied building, and its lights shone out brilliantly
through the half-closed screens of the walls. The
street was full of gay Japanese folk, carrying

E

50 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

paper lanterns, and adding their quota to the general
picturesqueness of the scene.

There was no need to ring at the door, for door there
was none. The walls, and to a large extent the win-
dows, of a Japanese house are represented by thin white
paper screens, fitted into a light wood framework,
and pushed aside in the day to admit the light and
air — a little too much of the latter at times, as we
soon discovered !

Bowing all round, we sat down on the door-step,
or rather on the edge of the house, and taking off our
shoes, we were then at liberty to walk over the
springy and very white straw mats that covered the
interior. The furnishing of a Japanese house must
be extremely cheap, with nothing in the rooms, as a
rule, except the matting on the floor and the hibachi or
charcoal brasier, and perhaps one vase of flowers in
the recess, or place of honour, and one picture or
Kakemono on the wall. The hotel at Utsunomiya
was much in this style. As we saw in many other
places, the whole lower floor could have been thrown
into one by taking away the screens that separated
the various rooms — a decided convenience in mis-
sionary work.

As we soon climbed up the ladder-like staircase
to the upper floor, I noticed a wooden trough
in the centre of the house, and was told this was
where the family and Japanese visitors would wash

NIKKO AND IKAO. 51

their hands and faces in the morning. The bath-
room, where all would take a daily and exceedingly
hot bath, was in another part of the house. Every
day convinced us more deeply of the cleanliness of
the Japanese, though they have much to learn in the
method of their ablutions.

Once up the stairs we found ourselves in a narrow
wooden verandah that ran round all the rooms. It
was open to the street, but the rooms had paper-
screen walls that could be closed when desired. The
verandah itself was also shut in late at night by
strong wooden screens (araado or rain-doors), which
were kept in a wooden cupboard, and run at night
along grooves in the floor, wakening me out of my
first sleep with a noise like thunder !

Our rooms, three in a row, were quite empty, and
divided one from the other by thick paper screens.
We had scarcely entered them when, with beaming
faces, the hotel servants bore in an English table and
chairs, which looked sadly out of place. But we could
scarcely refuse to admit them into one of the rooms,
though it must be owned that a short residence
on the floor sent one with cramped limbs to enjoy
their prosaic comfort with warmer appreciation than
usual.

All this time we were the centre of a cheerful
circle of admirers, who bowed and smiled directly we
looked at them, the hotel keeper prostrating himself

E 2

52 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

at our feet. At a suggestion from the Bishop they
hurried away to prepare the evening meal, and soon
a tiny red table, with legs a few inches high, and
covered with about eight dishes made of lacquer and
china, was placed before each of us.

What was the bill of fare ? Something of this sort.
Cold soup, hot soup, with a stiff sort of custard
floating in it (oh, so hard to pick up with chop-
sticks !) ; a sort of curry, rice, tiny bits of radish,
ginger, cooked chestnut, and two kinds of fish, and
of course little cups of tea ad libitum. We attacked
all, everything being in very small quantities, with
chopsticks, while the little circle of Japanese watched
with much amusement and encouraging admiration,
though undoubtedly the tall foreigners, seated on
their high pedestals, must have looked quaintly out
of keeping with their surroundings. I looked up
now and then into the gaily-lighted street, where,
in the opposite house, also an hotel, the screens were
drawn aside, and you could see a group of Japanese
gathered round a man, probably a professional story-
teller, and fascinated by his legends of the heroes
of old days.

But our evening was short, as we had to start very
early next morning. The Bishop gave the orders,
and the willing maids removed the dinner, and came
in again looking almost extinguished by large dark
blue quilts or futons, which were to form our beds.

NIKKO AND 1KA0. 53

How we laughed, as two were spread for each
mattress, a third was rolled up for a pillow (N.B.
- — The Japanese use a high icooclen pillow, or very
hard bolster), while the fourth was left as a coverlet,
a great luxury being added in the way of one sheet
and a pillow cover.

The beds took up half our room ; the screens were
drawn all round, and though we could probably all
own to a strong sensation of being shut up in an old-
fashioned paper-lined trunk, we were left to get what
sleep we could in the extremely lively quarters of a
Japanese hotel. But it was not easy work. The
blind shampooers were blowing their whistles in the
street below ; the guests in the hotel opposite and the
passers-by chattered gaily ; the dogs barked ; a train
arrived ab the station, and the owners of each hotel
shouted out the merits of their various houses ; and
then, just as I was dozing a little, the wooden shutters
were drawn all round the hotel, and in every other
house of Utsunomiya, to judge from the astounding
clatter. Then, at last, comparative quiet fell on the
city, but I was awaked now and then by the wooden
clappers of the watchman on guard, and could hear
him walking softly outside my paper wTalls. A night
in a Japanese inn — it was more entertaining than
solidly comfortable, but we would not have missed
the experience on any consideration.

Oct. 1. — We got up soon after four o'clock, as we

54 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

were to leave by the 6 a.m. train ; but " getting up ,T
proved to be decidedly more complicated than the
mere words would imply. Japanese, as we mentioned
before, are delightfully clean, but they conduct their
ablutions, more or less, in public bath-houses, and no
water is allowed to enter the actual rooms with their
beautiful white-matted floors. However, their un-
failing courtesy found a partial, very partial, solution
for our difficulty. The paper-screen walls, or shoji,
of each room were pushed aside a few inches, and
behold ! a tin pail full of cold water had been placed
in the verandah, and a blue-cotton towel, the size of
a handkerchief, beside each pail. It was ever so
much better than nothing ! One by one we pushed
our heads cautiously through the screens (the open
street being just below) and performed a few rapid ablu-
tions. We made up for past deficiencies that night, on
our arrival at the luxurious semi-foreign hotel at Ikao.
After a breakfast of tea and eggs, with bread
brought from S. Andrew's House, we said good-bye
to Utsunomiya and its fascinating hotel, and started
by train for Maebashi, from which jinrikshas were
to take us to Ikao, a beautiful mountain station,
noted for its hot springs. Owing to the typhoon
of the day before, the journey proved a very long
one. A railway bridge had broken down, and we
had to go back to Omiya, within seventeen miles
of Tokyo, and wait an hour for the Maebashi

NIKKO AND IKAO. 55

train. In many parts of the line we noticed
that the telegraph poles had been blown down, and
the roads nearly destroyed, and when we started
from Maebashi for the ride of fifteen and a half miles
to Ikao, our jinrikshas could only bump slowly over
the broken country roads and up the mountain side,
a process which proved decidedly tiring. The country
we passed through, however, was very interesting.
It was a silk district, and bore no sign of poverty,
with its comfortable wooden houses every few yards,
and large villages at intervals. We could see the
piles of cocoons lying on the edges of the houses,
and the women spinning and weaving inside. The
children shouted a cheerful " Ohio " (Good-morning)
to us, and the big school-boys, with their books
packed up in coloured handkerchiefs, and often a
baby brother or sister tied on their backs, laughed
merrily at the little party of foreigners — an Indian
tussore dust-cloak worn by one of us seeming to
afford them endless amusement. Altogether the
journey gave us a real glimpse into Japanese country
life, vivid, amusing, and very varied, and yet, being
our first long journey alone among the people, it
impressed upon us with peculiar emphasis the strong
grasp of heathenism upon the land. Home life and
village life were indeed brought vividly before
us, but never a token of the highest life of all —
nothing but the wayside Shinto shrines and the

56 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Buddhist temples, with their dim feeling after that
which, as all who have penetrated below the surface of
society will testify, they have utterly failed to bring
home to the intense yearning of Japan. It was a
lesson only to be learned on the spot, and one we
shall never forget.

As we got nearer Ikao, a range of high mountains,
with curiously-shaped summits, came in sight, and as
we entered the village itself, a hot stream of mineral
water (115° Fahr.), rushing along our path, told us
we were indeed in volcano -land.

About 6.15 p.m. we entered the courtyard of the
Hotel Kindayu, a charming Japanese house, but
furnished in English fashion. Our rooms looked over
the picturesque village on to the splendid panorama of
the great plain and distant hills towards Tokyo, and
the young landlord of the hotel did his best to make
his foreign guests feel at home.

Oct. 2. — The following morning we started in
perfect weather for an expedition to Haruna, a valley
about five miles from Ikao, and noted for its volcanic
rocks and elaborately-carved Shinto temple. The
road was too much injured by the recent typhoon for
jinrikshas, but my brother was able to hire some
Canton chairs made of basket-work, in which we were
carried by twelve men (four to each chair) on long
bamboo poles. We passed through three distinct
styles of scenery : first by a zigzag path up the

SHINTO SHRINE, 1YEYASU S TEMPLE , TvTKKO.

NIKKO AND IKAO. 59

wooded hill-side ; then across a desolate plateau with
a quiet little lake in its centre, evidently the crater of
an extinct volcano ; and finally, after a splendid view
of three ranges of distant mountains, down the rapid
descent to Haruna. We stopped occasionally to
admire the extraordinary rocks, perhaps a hundred and
fifty feet in height, which rose at irregular intervals
among the splendid cryptomeria and maples of the
valley. One was like a child's tower of bricks, pushed a
little on one side, and another like a bird with a very
long neck ; and a third, an enormous mass poised on
a slender base, hung just above the principal temple
of the village, and seemed as if the slightest quiver
of an earthquake would hurl it from its resting-place.
The temple and its surrounding buildings and
gateways were indeed exquisitely carved and coloured,
and their grey-tiled roofs were surmounted by pieces
of wood in the shape of the letter X, representing the
most ancient style of Japanese architecture. A short-
flight of steps led us up to the main building, through
the open doors of which we could see the altar,
adorned with its gohei, or bundles of white paper
shavings fastened to a wand, and shutting off
effectually the inner chamber where the emblem of
the god, probably a mirror, or stone, or sword, would
be kept, wrapped in endless coverings, and scarcely
ever seen even by the priests. Separate paper
shavings streamed from the lintel of the doors ; and

60 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

close at hand, on the right, was a smaller building,
probably the oratory, in which the worshippers would
kneel, having previously pulled a straw rope attached
to a gong in order to attract the god's attention.

The temple being built on a mountain and not on
a plain, where Shinto temples are almost invariably
to be found, was evidently originally Buddhist. But
no trace of Buddhism could be seen except the
carving and colouring, as it was one of those specially
purified from Buddhist emblems at the time of the
Revolution (1868), when there was a strong reaction
in favour of everything national. It was a great sur-
prise to us to find how, almost invariably, the two
prevailing creeds, Buddhism and. Shintoism, are inter-
fused, not only in the temples but in the minds of
the Japanese. The temple, with its Shinto gohei and
roof, and its Buddhist ritual and images, affords a
vivid representation of the twin faiths of the people,
by whose teaching a child will be placed under the
care of a Shinto deity at birth, but brought up and
probably buried by Buddhist priests. A few years
since we should have said certainly buried by them ;
but by a recent law the exclusive claim of the
Buddhist priests was ignored, and burial by any
religious body sanctioned. As the Japanese them-
selves allow, this gave a tremendous blow to the
power of Buddhism, as it had previously always inter-
vened at death, even if ignored during life. A form

NIKKO AND IKAO. 61

of Shinto burial, which claimed to be a revival of
primitive practice, was instituted, of which we saw an
interesting example later on in the south of Japan ;
and Christians can be buried without any difficulty in
the general cemeteries, and the service of the Church
read over them.

But to return to the intermingling of the two
ancient creeds in the minds of the Japanese. Two
good reasons can be given for the apparent puzzle.
(1) : Buddhism, which entered Japan byway of Korea
(556 a.d.), gave its immediate sanction to Shintoism,
and admitted the gods of Shinto within its pantheon.
(2) : Shintoism, a vague ancestor- worship, with scarcely
any services and no dogmas, left the people free to
adopt all the elaborate system and ritual of Buddhism
without any break with their own past.

After lunch in a tea-house on the edge of the
ravine, we wandered down the village street, if street
it could be called, being merely some irregular flights
of steps, and now and then an arched bridge of
scarlet lacquer, a delightful bit of colour among the
surroundings of dark cryptomeria and rocks. We
visited a Buddhist priest's house, where my brother
had lived during part of a summer holiday, and
returned to Ikao late in the afternoon, climbing once
more to the plateau, and passing the beautiful lake
on the summit of the pass. The Japanese have some
curious superstitions about this lake. It is supposed

62 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

to be a rival to one in Mount Akaji, but each is in
charge of a dragon (Mushi). If a man were to
stand by Haruna Lake and say Akaji Lake is the
largest, it would sadly displease its dragon owner,
and he would be sure to lose his way home and meet
a terrible storm. The Rev. J. Imai, one of the Tokyo
clergy, was born in the neighbourhood of Haruna, and
well remembers hearing old people say in a storm
that it came from the dragons of Akaji or Haruna,
according to the direction of the wind. Before
returning to our hotel at Ikao, we spent a good deal
of time at some fascinating wood-carving shops at
the entrance of the village. My brother did all the
bargaining for us, as we knew no Japanese. It is an
extremely difficult language, not in pronunciation,
but in grammar and the arrangement of sentences.
He, however, talks it fluently, and made the very best
of guides throughout our tour.

Oct. 3. — We left Ikao at 6.45 the following
morning. The road down to the plain commands a
splendid view of the hills, and the long line of peaks
looked more beautiful than ever in the early morning
light. The jinriksha men ran well, and brought us
to Takasaki (20 i miles) in good time for the mid-
day train to Tokyo, though the fourteen miles after
we left the mountains must have been hard work.
The high road to Takasaki was endlessly amusing,
thronged with jinrikshas, and not a foreigner but

N1KK0 AND IKAO. 63

ourselves to be seen. One minute our attention
would be attracted by a party of Buddhist priests
with closely-shaven heads and golden-yellow silk
robes ; the next we were laughing at some pear-trees,
on which every pear was neatly packed in paper to
prevent its ripening too fast ; and the next, we were
whirled past a paper-umbrella-maker's garden, literally
Muck with umbrellas of every hue, not hanging, but
standing out to dry. A final rush through the streets
of Takasaki, a large commercial town, finished this
stage of the journey, and four o'clock found us again
in Tokyo, and in time for the quiet evensong in S.
Andrew's church. Ten days more in the capital lay
before us, but we felt that our week in the country
had been a valuable preparation for them by the
further introduction it had given us to the Japanese
" at home."

64 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER IV.

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL.

Oct 4. [Sunday). — My father preached in the
morning at the American Church, a fine building
erected by the energy of Bishop Williams, and quite
worthy to be called a Cathedral. In the afternoon he
addressed by interpretation the congregation of the
C.M.S. Mission.

About 6 p.m. we were all at S. Andrew's House,
when my brother suddenly said " Earthquake ! " And
so it was. The room quivered for a few seconds as if
grasped and violently shaken by a rough hand, and
then all was over. We had scarcely time to be
alarmed, and it was indeed a different experience from
that which was to befall us a few weeks later at
Osaka, though it was repeated four times during our
three weeks in Tokyo.

Oct. 5. — The next morning was occupied with
letters, and a visit paid by Mrs. Bickersteth and
myself to the Tokyo kwankoba, or bazaar. The daily
life of the Japanese was well represented in its long

LIFE IN THE QBE AT CAPITAL.

65

rows of stalls, though in order to attract the foreigner
they were arranged in European fashion.

Here lay the gentleman's pipe and tobacco, his fan
and quaint clasp for his obi (sash), and close at hand
a pile of the wadded or thin cotton kimonos, that he
would use in winter and summer. Not far off were

JAPANESE TOURNAMENT IN THE OLD DAYS.

his wife's hairpins and combs, her pipe (all women
smoke in Japan) and her chop-sticks, and rolls of
silk crape and gaily-printed cotton for her gowns.
Endless toys could be obtained for their children, and
brightly-decorated " name-bags " to hang round their
necks and identify them when lost. In one corner

F

66 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

the student could choose his writing-case and seal,
and the housewife could invest in a hibachi (stove) and
kettle, and futons (the wadded quilts used for beds),
while on perhaps the daintiest stall of the kwankoba
everything was represented in miniature — in models
that could only be equalled by the best Swiss or Italian
work. Two of the S. Hilda's Mission ladies came with
us, and with their kind aid we soon packed a jinriksha
with odds and ends that would have thrown a morning
at " Liberty's " into dim shade indeed.

We lunched with Mrs. Kirkes at her house in
Nagata Cho, and drove afterwards to call on Pere
Nicolai, the Kussian Bishop. It was a great disap-
pointment to find he was away from home. The
Kusso-Greek mission in Japan is strongly backed by
the Kussian Government, but its success is largely
owing to the Bishop, who is a very remarkable man,
and by personal influence has attracted to himself a
band of able and well-read Japanese, by whose means
he has organised a large number of mission stations
in different parts of the country, their converts
numbering now some 17,000 persons. The Kusso-
Greek Cathedral, a basilica with walls six feet thick
in order to resist earthquakes, is the finest foreign
building in Tokyo, and has a great central dome
like our own S. Paul's Cathedral. The interior is
rather disappointing, empty and whitewashed, except
the east end, which is a blaze of gilding and colour,

LIFE IN TEE GREAT CAPITAL. 67

with some fine pictures of saints introduced into it.
We climbed up to the roof, and obtained our first un-
interrupted view of Tokyo. Very striking it looked,
with its dull grey sea of houses, broken now and then
by a daimyo's palace and garden, or the roof of a
temple, and with the beautiful Bay of Tokyo lying
beyond.

We returned home by the Ginza, the great central
thoroughfare of the city. It has footpaths, and
many of the shops are very large, and crowded with
beautiful specimens of Japanese art. The attempts
at English on the signboards in the Ginza and other
streets of Tokyo are very amusing. " Wine, beer and
other medicines " ; "A shop, the kind of umbrella,
parasol or stick " ; " The shop for the furniture of
the several countries " ; " Prices, no increase or di-
minish"; "All kinds of superior sundries kept here";
"Skin maker and seller" (portmanteau shop);
" Ladies furnished in the upstair." These are a few
specimens ; and I always knew we were getting near to
S. Andrew's House when we passed " Washins and
ironins carefully done."

We stopped that afternoon at the principal silk and
crape shop to buy a few presents for our people at
home. The shop was open to the street and fringed
with dark cotton hangings. We sat on the edge of
the floor, about a foot above the street, but did not
go inside, as we did not want to take off our shoes.

F 2

68 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

After about half-an-hour's vigorous explanation from
my brother, all we could wish for was produced ; but
it must be confessed that Japanese shopping is a
decidedly lengthy business. First, a pipe is offered
you ; then tea ; then the least attractive goods are
produced ; and at last, after much bowing on both
sides, the very thing you have desired from the first ;
but even then it will not be yours until it has been
bargained down to a reasonable price. The crape
merchant was well accustomed to foreigners, and
begged leave to draw up an English bill for my father.
It was a delightful production, made out for so much
" yellow crepe " (though we had chosen pale blue and
mauve), and directed to "Pickastes, Esq."

AVe dined that night at Mr. and Mrs. Kirkwood's,
and met Prince and Princess Cariati of the Italian
Legation. The evening was very pleasant, though
during dinner we experienced our second slight shock
of earthquake. Mr. Kirkwood showed us some curious
brass kettles for sake (spirits), which had been used at
the marriage of his butler. A paper butterfly was tied
on each, and one of the principal parts of the mar-
riage ceremony had been the pouring of libations from
these kettles into the same cup, which was then
raised to the lips of the bridegroom and bride.

Oct. 6. — We spent the morning in a visit to the
Emperor's private gardens. He was in Tokyo at the
time, but we were fortunate enough to get an order

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 71

through Archdeacon Shaw to see them. One of the
palace officials was sent to explain everything to us.
Our first impression was decidedly one of disappoint-
ment. Was this the Imperial garden ? Here were
no flower-beds and no flowers, only an intensely
stiff arrangement of little stone paths and bridges,
leading to a few plain summer-houses, and inter-
spersed with curiously dwarfed trees, which seemed to
have every bit of natural grace trained out of them.
Their straight or sharply angular branches were
supported on bamboo crutches, drooping over ponds of
exceedingly definite outline, on whose banks every
stone seemed to stand at attention !

Yes, it was most necessary to get into the " spirit
of a fan." But having got there, our admiration began
to grow, and we could see how exceedingly represen-
tative of Japanese taste that garden was. Each care-
fully calculated hillock bore in their eyes a poetical
resemblance to Mt. Fuji. Each pond or row of stones
suggested to them peace or rest, or had some philoso-
phical meaning not to be fathomed by a hasty glance.
The devotion of a minute unwearied skill — the con-
densation of effect in the narrowest compass — it was
this that was so truly Japanese, and, as we saw at
last, possessed a quaint fairy-tale beauty of its own
that made us most grateful for our glimpse into the
Emperor's gardens.

On our way home we visited Kyobashi Mission

72 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Church, then in charge of the Eev. F. E. Freese
(S. Andrew's Mission) and the Rev. A. Iida, a
Japanese deacon. The Church is the centre of a
populous district, similar to that we had seen at
Ushigome a few days previously, and it showed tokens
of much care on the part of the congregation. We
were asked to notice a board put up just inside the
door, containing a number of Japanese names written
on small wooden blocks, which could be moved as
desired. One row represented the regular attendants
at the Church ; another (a practice that might be
occasionally useful in England) those who came less
regularly, and the third touched us deeply — it was for
those who had formerly attended the church, but were
now in Paradise. The Kyobashi Christians always
kneel outside the door, and say a short prayer
before entering. Our attention was called to this
reverent custom because it was observed by Mr.
Iida before speaking to us, who were already inside
when he arrived. We stayed for some time in the
Church, and, after we left it, visited a place called
the " Holy Mountain," not far from S. Andrew's
House. It was really one of the many hills of Tokyo,
and by mounting a high wooden tower on the sum-
mit, we had a fine view of the Bay and of the great
city. Close at hand were some specially sacred
temples, which were approached from the street below
by a steep ascent of about two hundred steps.

LIFE IN THE QUE AT CAPITAL. 73

In the afternoon we went to an " At Home " at S.
Hilda's House, which was attended by many English
^ind Japanese friends. All the lower rooms were
thrown open, and the pupils of the school made an
attractive group, as they stood round the piano and
sang some glees in very creditable English. Some
Japanese musicians were present, and played on the
Koto and Samisen, instruments rather like the zither
and banjo in appearance. They also sang several
songs to us ; but, with all due deference to their skill,
it must be confessed that it evidently requires a
Japanese ear to appreciate Japanese music.

After the " At Home," my father returned to
S. Andrew's House, and gave an address on " The
Deity of Christ " to thirty young men, students of
S. Andrew's Divinity School, and members of the
Night School and Club, many of the latter being non-
Christians. He thus placed himself in touch with
some of the most important work of S. Andrew's
Mission. This Mission, it will be remembered, was
founded by my brother in 1887, and consists of
University men, working under his immediate direc-
tion, and living in his house. At the time we were
in Tokyo, it numbered six clergy : the Eev. Armine
F. King (Warden), the Rev. L. B. Cholmondeley
(Domestic Chaplain), the Rev. C. G. Gardner, the
Rev. F. E. Freese, the Rev. H. Moore, and the
Rev. L. F. Ryde.

74 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

We were much struck with the value of the work
carried on by them in the capital. First. — In the
Divinity School they are training men, many of
whom will be catechists and future clergy of the
Church in Japan. No work could be more important,
since all persons possessed of real knowledge of the
country are agreed that the Japanese Church of the
future, though perhaps a distant future, will be wholly
Japanese ; not English, not American, not Russian.
The process, they say, that is now being carried on,
with full consent of the people, in things secular, will
be repeated in things spiritual. The foreigner will
gradually be replaced by the Japanese, and the native
clergy, who are at present being instructed by us in
the Faith, will have to bear the full strain of their own
national Church. As we sow now they will reap
then, and it is the knowledge of this that lends such
vital importance to an institution like the Divinity
School of S. Andrew's Mission.

Second. — The members of S. Andrew's Mission are
winning an influence over the educated classes of
Tokyo. They have made a bold start in this direc-
tion by taking two masterships in Mr. Fukuzawa's
important College, which we visited two days later,
and by opening the Night School and Club, whose
members my father addressed that evening. By
these means they have begun to attract a few of the
thousands of young men who crowd to Tokyo from

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 75

every part of Japan, whether to study at its University
and schools, or to seek employment in the numerous
Government offices.

Third. — They have undertaken evangelistic work,
such as the charge of mission districts like those we
had already seen at Ushigome and Kyobashi, and
occasional preaching tours in the country near
Tokyo.

Their work is, therefore, not only important, but
eminently hopeful. Yet it was sad to see how it is
cramped, and more or less defeated by deficiency of
numbers. We had often been told this in England,
but our short residence in Tokyo did much to deepen
the conviction of what we had only heard before.
There was the great city lying all round the Mission
House. There were the University, the schools, the
crowded streets. We could see with our own eyes
what my brother called " the Christian look " in the
faces of those who had been reached by the Mission.
We could note the effects of long unbroken heathen-
ism on the thousands who, of necessity, were left
untouched.

It was scarcely strange, therefore, if we longed
that, at whatever cost and self-sacrifice to herself, the
Church at home should double the number of members
in S. Andrew's Mission, and found many another like
it ; or if we wondered again and again why, when
six Oxford men had responded to the Bishop's call for

76 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

help, not one representative from his own University
was to be found in his special Mission at Tokyo.

Oct. 7. — We had a very interesting morning in
Ueno Park and Museum. The park is one of the
most popular resorts in Tokyo, especially in the
spring, when the avenue of cherry trees is in full
blossom : but when we were there it was dry and
dusty from the summer heat, and we could only
picture, from the delicately-painted Japanese photo-
graphs, wdiat it would be at other times.

On leaving our carriage we went first to see the
great Daibutsu, a bronze figure of Buddha, twenty-
one feet high, and erected quite near the entrance.
It is raised on a flight of several steps, but the work-
manship is very rough, and it has a most unpleasing
face. A few yards further, we passed through some
gates into a noble avenue of fir trees, which lead up to
a temple dedicated to Iyeyasu, the same Shogun
(military ruler) whose grave we had seen at Nikko.
It had on each side a row of stately stone lanterns,
votive offerings from his followers, and beautifully
carved with his and their crests. But its effect, as a
whole, was sadly marred by a " switch back railway,"
which had been erected just beyond the trees for the
amusement of visitors to the park and temples. The
gateway at its close, and the temple beyond were
quite equal in the magnificence of their decoration to
those we had seen at Nikko. We spent some time

IMAGE OF BUDDHA, IN UENO PARK, TOKYO.

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 79

in examining the carved birds and flowers, and the
elaborate gold lacquer and mosaic work which adorned
them, and then drove on to the Museum, a plain
modern building in another part of the park.

We could well have spent several mornings in
examining its treasures. The lower floor is crowded
with fine specimens of modern art in lacquer, china,
and cloisonne. We only stayed a short time in
these rooms, and went upstairs to those devoted to
the ancient life and art of Japan. On the landing
we passed the Mikado's state bullock-cart and
palanquin, and a model of the state barge used by
the Shoguns. We then entered the first room,
which is devoted to the Historical Department. All
the specimens are carefully arranged in glass cases,
and, with the aid of Murray's Guide, we could follow
the contents of each very accurately. In the first
were relics of the stone age ; arrow and spear heads,
and rough stone implements. Then, as we went a
little further, we could notice the development of the
characteristic arts of Japan : pottery, bronze work, and
carving in ivory ; very rough at first, but improving
with marvellous rapidity, probably when the arts of
civilization entered the country from Korea. In the
second room were three cases of Buddhist relics,
seals, and incense burners, etc., and specimens of the
earliest Japanese writing, all in Chinese characters ;
and, just beyond them, two others devoted to Christian

80 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

relics of the 16th and 17th centuries — the days of
S. Francis Xavier, and, therefore, of peculiar interest
in the eyes of a foreign visitor.

Xavier landed in Japan in 1549, and, during his
two and a half years' visit, he founded several
Christian communities, who spread the knowledge of
their faith among all classes, and this with astonishing
success, so that in less than forty years 600,000
persons were baptized.

In 1587, however, the suspicion of the Government
was roused, not at that time by the action of the
missionaries, but by libels made upon them by the
jealousy of the Spanish and Portuguese traders, who,
in order to destroy each other's trade, tried to prevent
any foreigners entering the country. It was allayed
for a while, but manifested itself in active persecution
in 1596, being aroused partly by the mutual jealousy
of the Spanish and Portuguese monastic orders, and
partly by the slanders on Christianity of the Buddhist
priests. The Christians, now nearly a million in
number, went through a terrible ordeal of fire and
bloodshed, and by the middle of the 17th century their
cause seemed hopelessly ruined. But this was by no
means a rapid work. It took nearly half a century,
and during the early days of the persecution some
provinces were spared, in which Christianity con-
tinued to flourish. It was from these provinces that
an embassy was despatched by the daimyo of Sendai

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 81

to the Pope, and the King of Spain, and many of the
relies we saw in the Ueno Museum, were presents
given to its members when in Europe, which had
been preserved by the Sendai family until a few
years since. They included crucifixes, holy pictures,
and rosaries, an oil painting of the ambassador in
prayer before a crucifix, and another of him dressed
in his Italian costume. All had evidently been
most jealously guarded during the persecution.

In the same cases, and of even greater interest,
were " the ' fumisita,' or trampling boards, oblong
blocks of metal, with figures, in high relief, of Christ
before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, the
Madonna and Child, etc., on which persons suspected
of Christianity were obliged to trample in times of
persecution, in order to testify their abjuration of the
despised sect."*

Those cases were indeed a powerful witness to the
faith and devotion of the Japanese under severe trial,
a witness all the more important, because the attention
of many is now caught by the bright attractiveness
of the national character, and they rashly decide that
there cannot be depth where there is so much of
outward show.

From the Christian relics we passed to a collection
of beautiful inlaid swords and suits of armour, and
finally visited a room containing some magnificent
* Murray's Handbook.

82 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

embroidered gowns. These had been worn by the
daimyos and their followers in the old days, when
Tokyo (Yedo) was the centre of the brilliant court
of the Shogun, and when his master, the Mikado,
lived in studied simplicity at Kyoto.

In the afternoon we went to an interesting " At
Home," given by Mrs. Kirkes at her house in Nagata
Cho. She had invited a large number of the Japanese
nobles and Government officials and their wives, who
were desirous to meet my father. By means of in-
terpretation, and in some cases by their knowledge
of English, we had a great deal of interesting con-
versation.

Since the refusal of the European Governments to
sign the revised Treaty, which would put foreigners in
Japan under Japanese law, the highest classes have
kept a great deal to themselves, and it was a remark-
able testimony to Mrs. Kirkes' influence that so many
came that afternoon. Among her guests were the
President of the House of Peers ; the son of the Prime
Minister ; the Vice-Minister of Education ; the Foreign
Minister's wife ; the Empress' Vice-Chamberlain, and
one of her ladies-in-waiting. Many of them were in
full Japanese, others in foreign dress ; but all greeted
us with that exquisite courtesy that one would have
imagined to be more characteristic of France under
the old regime than of the hurried life of this 19th
century.

LIFE IN THE GEE AT CAPITAL. 83

A very clever Japanese juggler was present to fill
up intervals of conversation, and just before we left,
Countess Saigos's little daughter, a charming little
damsel of about five years of age, dressed in pale
blue crepe, danced for us. It was a quaint dignified
dance, accompanied by the singing of an attendant,
and by much rapid twisting of a sash held by the child.

It was at this " At Home " that a man of high
position, himself an unbeliever, said to my father that
Japan would become Christian, and that on the lines
of the Church of England, with certain national
modifications.

Oct. 8. — The following morning we were occupied
in different ways. My father and brother were busy
at S. Andrew's House ; Mrs. Bickersteth and Mrs. Shaw
(wife of the Archdeacon) were preparing the large
room of the Divinity School for a reception which
my brother was to hold that evening for the English
residents of Tokyo and Yokohama ; and I was hearing
from Miss Thornton all about the evangelistic work
of S. Hilda's Mission.

This work includes (a) the training of Japanese
women, both ladies and people of the lower classes, as
evangelists to their own countrywomen. The pupils
are divided for this purpose into three classes, according
to their knowledge of Christianity. Every effort is
made not to Anglicize them, but to train them in
such a manner that they may bring Christian ideals

G 2

84 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

into ordinary Japanese home life, (b) The regular
instruction given in the school for high-class girls.
(c) The care of all work among women in the Kyo-
bashi and Ushigome Mission Districts, such as classes
for enquirers and catechumens, or addresses to patients
at the dispensaries, such as I had heard at Kyobashi
on September 24th.

The evangelistic work is very hopeful ; but, as at
S. Andrew's Mission, we could see how serious is the
need of further first-rate English workers if the S.
Hilda ladies are in any way to respond to the opportu-
nities opening out before them. At present such oppor-
tunities are continually allowed to pass unheeded, for
want of English missionaries to initiate or superintend
the new work which they would involve. This is
specially the case in the medical department of the
Mission, where Nurse Grace already does the work of
three ordinary nurses, and time and strength would
equally forbid any extension of her work.

I returned to S. Andrew's House after lunch, and
during the afternoon, through a kind invitation from
a leading Japanese barrister, we were able to witness
the 0 Cha No Yu, or Ceremonial Tea Drinking, in full
perfection at his private house. Instead of the abso-
lute silence generally enforced on such occasions, we had
the advantage of explanations given by him in English,
and could closely follow each stage of the proceedings.

No diligent student of Japanese life and manners

LIFE IN THE GBEAT CAPITAL. 85

can have failed to come across allusions to this
famous Ceremonial Tea Drinking, which, though
rapidly dying out in the atmosphere of modern
innovations, is still reckoned part of the necessary
education of people in good society, and, by its
deliberate dignity, gives a crowning touch to the
foreigner's impression of this peculiarly courteous
people.

Our host and his very attractive wife and children
lived in a quiet part of the great city, and the paper
walls of their pretty wooden house were drawn aside
that afternoon to admit the soft summer air from the
quaint garden. AYe, as the English visitors, were
ushered into the " foreign room," with an orthodox
round table and chairs, but the screens between it
and the next room had been pushed aside, and so,
without causing any disturbance, we could comfortably
watch every gesture of the Japanese hostess and the
four guests.

The ceremony, to put it shortly, consisted in the
preparation of a single cup of tea, but when it must
be added that nearly two hours were required to bring-
about this great result, some idea will be formed of
the innumerable details involved.

First, as to the guests. The number of their bows
in entering, or in sitting down ; or in passing the cup ;
or in acknowledging any little act of the hostess, were
truly astonishing, yet each was prescribed by rule.

86 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

The hostess, on her side, followed an equally strict
etiquette ; and in the number of steps she took in
approaching the little stove where the precious liquid
was to be brewed ; in the quantity and arrangement
of the pieces of charcoal she used on it ; and in the
various motions needed to suitably brush the kettle
and tongs, and lay down the spoons, etc., she never
failed in the smallest particular, nor abated one iota
of the absolute absence of hurry and tedium of detail
so necessary to a perfect observance of the Tea
Ceremony.

Four distinct stages were observed ; the arrival
of the guests and preparation of the stove ; the
making of the tea ; the partaking of it by the
guests ; and the admiration by the guests of each
implement, which, as our host remarked, had " con-
tributed to so delightful a feast."

Let us note a few remarkable points in each. The
room was empty, except for the stove, and a tiny
table a few inches high to hold the cups, etc. The
kettle was boiled with much solemnity, but at the
crucial moment its contents were diluted with several
spoonfuls of cold water ! No teapot was used, but
fine green powdered tea was stirred up with a little
whisk. One cup sufficed for the four guests, and each,
as he or she received it, twisted it three times and
took a prescribed number of sips. A different motion
was employed in passing it from a man to a woman,

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 87

and vice versa, and deep bows and prostrations filled
up every interval in the entertainment.

Our wonder grew, and it is to be hoped our
patience deepened, as the strange elaborate ceremony
proceeded. But towards its close a clue as to its
charms for the Japanese mind was certainly given by
our kind host, when he explained that it had been
founded by Hideyoshi, one of the most famous
generals of Japan, in a very warlike time when men's
minds were much agitated. Hideyoshi had therefore
devised the 0 Cha No Yu, and ordered its ob-
servance in strict silence before every secret meeting
of his officers to "calm the spirits," and prevent
undue haste in any important decision.

On my return to S. Hilda's House, I had a long
talk with Miss Snowden on the Mission school, and
thus gained an interesting glimpse into the ordinary
education of a girl of good position in Japan.

The modern standard of education is very high,
and, in order to keep up with it, a Mission school
must provide a first-rate staff of Japanese masters
and mistresses, the special attraction to the parents
of the pupils being the extra advantages in learning
English offered by the foreign ladies in charge.
English is now taught as well as Chinese * in many
of the upper-grade schools throughout Japan ; but as
the instruction is in most cases given by Japanese, the
* See note D.

88 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

grammar and pronunciation acquired by the pupils is
often very faulty. Therefore, parents of the upper
middle class, being increasingly anxious to have their
daughters not only well educated, but able to talk to
a foreign visitor, will often allow them to attend a
mission school, in spite of the stipulation that regular
Christian instruction will be included in the school
course.

S. Hilda's School has about tort}' pupils, and is
divided into four departments. I. The Jingo Sho
Gakko, or Kindergarten. II. The Koto Sho Gakko,
or Upper Kindergarten. III. The Chu Gakko, or
Middle School. IV. The College Class. This arrange-
ment is in strict accordance with that of an ordinary
Japanese school.

I. The Jingo Sho Gakko, or Kindergarten. In order
to use this name, a teacher certificated by Govern-
ment has to be employed, and the school is then
recognized and examined by Government officials.
The course is as follows : Reading, writing, arithmetic
(English and Japanese), manners, morals, and English,
the teachers being Otoke San, Takida San, and Miss
Snowden. When Miss Snowden mentioned " Morals,"
I wondered what the pretty party of babies I had seen
in the school had to do with so serious a subject ; but
she soon relieved my anxiety. It meant the learning
of short stories from Confucius, etc., such as, " Two
boys each had a parcel of cakes ; one divided them

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 89

among his neighbours, but the other ate them all
himself, and was very ill next day ! " When the
children grew older, she said, " morals " would include
more elaborate lessons on filial piety, etc.

I was much interested to hear of the wonderful
quickness of these Kindergarten pupils in arithmetic.
Little mites of six were doing fractions, and would
soon, Miss Snowden said, come to cube root.

II. The Koto Sho Gakko, or Upper Kindergarten.
The course in this department takes three years, and
the teachers are the same as in the Lower Kinder-
garten, but science and geography are added to the
list of subjects.

III. The Chu Gakko, or Middle School. This has
four classes, and the course seemed to me very
varied. Matsunaye San, an old but clever master,
teaches Chinese, writing, reading, composition, and also
domestic economy. Nagahashi San, Churchwarden of
S. Andrew's, Shiba, and quite a father to all the
pupils, teaches translation in every class except that of
the babies. Kaneko San, a lady teacher, gives lessons
in old Japanese poetry, composition, and reading, as
distinct from Chinese. Kishinone San, a graduate of
the University, teaches science, zoology, and botany
once a week to the senior girls. Besides these lessons
Japanese needlework is taught once a week, as all ladies
learn to make their own clothes. The stitches are put
in by exact measurement, and an inch-rule of wood

90 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

or ivory is a necessary part of every work-box. In
many cases this rule is affixed to the side of the box,
and the scissors are curled at the points, instead of
being crossed, as in England. English needlework,
singing, and drawing closed the list of subjects — cer-
tainly a very long one ; but the girls of Japan seem
quite as eager as the boys in their thirst for learning.

IV. The College Class. This is for very advanced
pupils and only included one girl at the time we
were in Tokyo, as very few are allowed to stay long
enough to attain to its standard, their help being
needed at home.

Miss Snowden then explained to me the course of
religious teaching given in the school. It was briefly
this : Sunday ; a voluntary afternoon Bible class of
enquirers, which was often well attended, but many
girls were kept back by home opposition ; a lesson
on the Prayer-book in the evening to the senior
Christian girls. Monday ; a lesson given by the Eev.
Imai Toshimichi to the Christian pupils. Wednesday ;
a lesson by the Rev. C. N. Yoshizawa to the non-
Christians. Thursday ; the senior Christian pupils
attend Miss Thornton's class for communicants.

The School is never without catechumens, and she
told me many interesting stories of them. For in-
stance, one of the first who asked to be baptized was
an only child, and the darling of her home. Her
father was a gentleman of good position, and when

LIFE IN THE GREAT CAPITAL. 91

she mentioned the subject to him, he said that he
could not prevent her by law, but that he would never
speak to her again if she became a Christian. She
stood firm, and was baptized ; but behaved so well
afterwards in her home that the father relented, and
treats her much as before. She was confirmed, and is
a regular communicant of S. Andrew's Church. She
took the greatest interest in her Confirmation, and
said afterwards : " My heart feels like a bird set loose
in the fields."

Another girl came from the neighbourhood of a
large city, many hours' journey by rail from Tokyo.
She was only fifteen, and still reckoned the " tom-
boy " of the neighbourhood, when she first heard of
Christianity. With characteristic vigour she begged
leave from her parents to visit some relations in
Tokyo, and learn more about its teaching. They
consented, and the relations sent her to S. Hilda's
School. There she was carefully taught, and baptized
late in 1889, being confirmed and receiving her
first Communion in 1890. Her parents then sent for
her to return home, and she has never been able to
visit Tokyo since. But the Mission ladies correspond
regularly with her, and she tells them she always
keeps Sunday, reading her Bible and singing some
hymns at the times of the service in S. Andrew's
Church, Tokyo.

Miss Snowden said that some of the pupils are

92 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Christians at heart, but are kept from baptism by
home opposition. Others seem as yet indifferent to
the missionaries' influence ; but from all she told me,
it was impossible not to gain a deeper insight into
the valuable work of S. Hilda's School.

( 93 )

CHAPTER V.

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS.

Oct. 9. — The following morning the two Bishops and
Mrs. Bickersteth visited the principal cemetery of
Tokyo. My father notes in his diary : " We went
to the great cemetery this morning. It was most sug-
gestive of recent progress to find the portion of
ground, perhaps half an acre, where the Christians were
buried, and also to see many graves surmounted with
a cross scattered now and then among the heathen
monuments. It is only during the last few years
they have allowed Christians to be buried in Tokyo.
Mr. Williams, C.M.S. missionary here, had to take his
infant to be buried at Yokohama, but now there is
no difficulty. The cemetery is beautifully kept. The
most costly stones are rough-hewn, with only a
smooth tablet for the graven incription."

Meanwhile, Nurse Grace took me to Yokohama, to
choose a number of photographs of the various places
we had already seen. Japanese excel in photography,
especially in the art of colouring. They do not paint
the photograph when complete, but add the colour

94

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

while it is still half-developed, and the effect is
extremely good. They charge very little for their
photographs, two yen (about 6s. 8c?.) for two dozen
large coloured ones, and rather less for uncoloured.
We soon made a delightful collection of different
scenes of Japanese life and of the places we had
visited. It was curious to notice that any photograph

FJiOM A PHOTOGHAPH OF WOOD-CARVING AT NIKKO.

of costumes previous to the Kevolution (1868) was
marked " ancient times," and the attempts at English
in this shop, and in others we saw afterwards, were
delightful. " Spelling cotton " for " spinning cotton ";
" Bird's in viw " for " bird's-eye view," and so on.

We returned to Tokyo by 2 p.m., and in the after-
noon my brother took us to see the great Keiogijiku

* The monkeys are supposed to be saying- : " Hear nothing you
should not hear ; say nothing you should not say ; see nothing
you should not see."

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 95

College and University (pronounced Kay-o-ghee-gee-
koo). It is in the district of Mita, and not very far
from S. Andrew's House. Its pupils, 1600 in number,
from little fellows of eight or nine to full-grown men
of twenty-three, come from every part of Japan, and
in the University Department the senior students
can graduate as fully as in the Imperial University.
They not only stand on very much the same level as
University students, but as regards social position,
they rank, if anything, higher. The Keiogijiku
University Department has only been recently estab-
lished, and is mainly intended for the scholars of
the College to pass into, in order to complete their
studies. It, however, differs from the Imperial Uni-
versity in two ways : (1) it is not endowed; (2) the
pupils are less likely to receive Government appoint-
ments. Both University and College were founded
by Mr. Fukuzawa, one of the men who made
modern Japan. Professor Chamberlain writes of him,
in " Things Japanese," as " a real power in the land,
writing with admirable clearness, publishing a popular
newspaper,* not keeping too far ahead of the times ;
in favour of Christianity to-day, because its adop-
tion might gain for Japan the good-will of Western
nations ; all eagerness for Buddhism to-morrow, because
Buddhist doctrines can be better reconciled with those
of evolution and development ; pro and anti-foreign
* The Jiji Shimpo — the " Times " of Japan.

96 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

by turns, inquisitive, clever, not over-ballasted with
judicial calmness ; this eminent private schoolmaster,
who might be Minister of Education, but who has
consistently refused all office, is the intellectual father
of half the young men who now fill the middle and
lower posts in the Government of Japan."

Some years since, the Eev. A. Lloyd, S.P.GL,
formerly Dean of Peterhouse, Cambridge, obtained
leave from Mr. Fukuzawa to hold an English master-
ship in his college, with the understanding that he
might also give Christian instruction out of school
hours. Much valuable influence was exercised by
him, several of his pupils being baptized ; but on
his regretted retirement in 1890, owing to his wife's
ill -health, the work would have collapsed had not
S. Andrew's Mission taken it in hand.

The Rev. H. Moore became Lecturer in Latin, and
the Rev. L. F. Ryde, Lecturer in Sociology, both in
the University Department, During 1891, by an
anonymous donation of a thousand pounds to the
Japan Mission Fund, the Bishop was able to hire a
house in the school compound formerly occupied by
Mr. Lloyd, and a first-rate centre for missionary work
and influence. It was this house, and also part of the
College, that we went to visit that afternoon, under
the guidance of Mr. Moore. The house is simply
furnished in Japanese style, containing rooms for
six boarders (Christian pupils in the school), a small

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 99

Chapel, some capital class-rooms, and a sitting-room,
where the pupils can have private talks with their
masters. The bedrooms looked very bare to English
eyes. On the tatami (matted floor) there was a table
a few inches high, and a pile of books beside it, in-
cluding a large dictionary, and probably a copy of
John Stuart Mill or Herbert Spencer, which are the
present ideals of young Japan. Each room had its
reading-lamp, but not one gave us an idea that it
was used as a bedroom, for the futons (quilts) which
make a Japanese bed, were put away -in a wall cup-
board with sliding doors.

The Keiogijiku itself is a group of modern red-
brick buildings surrounded by a large playground, in
which we saw a number of students being drilled.
The seniors were in the charge of a sergeant ; but
the juniors, in small companies of ten or twelve, were
being ordered about by boys of their own age— a
proceeding rather difficult to imagine in an English
school, but evidently very successful in Japan.

The larger number of students live in boardino-
houses close to the College. They come, as we said
before, from every part of the Empire, quiet country
villages often collecting a fund to send up a promising-
boy to Tokyo. Should, however, supplies from home
be cut off, it is very unlikely these boys will give up
their course, for they are possessed of an energy and
enthusiasm for knowledge that seems to know no

h 2

100 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

bounds. They are in every sense representative of
the active life of modern Japan, not of the small
clique of nobles who have lived in more or less
retirement since the Restoration, nor of the peasants,
with their slower intelligence ; but of the samurai (the
scholars and soldiers of the old regime), and the
farmers, who together form the powerful middle class-
of the present Empire.

It is scarcely surprising, therefore, that Mr. Moore-
was able to tell us of one boy who pulled a jinriksha
each evening, and of another who sold newspapers
daily from 4 to 7 a.m., in order to earn the necessary
school fees.

About twenty-eight students are now Christians,,
and attend very regularly the daily Evensong in the
Mission House Chapel, and the early Celebration
of Holy Communion on Sundays. Non-Christians,
come in increasing numbers to the instruction classes
which are held by the missionaries, some from
curiosity, others from a real dissatisfaction with their
own creeds.

1 shall not easily forget the bright face of one boy
when I asked him if he was a catechumen, and he
answered, with much emphasis, in English, " No ; but
I want to be ! "

Mr. Moore had some interesting stories to tell us
of the firmness of those who had been already bap-
tized. For instance, the annual school holiday was.

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 101

observed last year on a Sunday, and the missionaries
did not consider it wise to compel the Christians to
abstain from joining in it ; but one boy came to them
and said his conscience forbade him to do so, and he
stood the ridicule of the school rather than give way.

From the Keiogijiku we went to the Mission Church,
built by Mr. Lloyd for the pupils, and filled by them
every Sunday morning. It is a plain building, with
a bamboo reredos and black wooden cross, but it was
well kept, and used not only by the students, but
by a general congregation from the Mita district.

We could not but feel, as we, returned home, that
the Keiogijiku College, with the Mission House in its
precincts, and the little Church in the neighbouring
street, would be vividly stamped on our minds as
one of the most interesting branches of S. Andrew's
Mission.

Oct. 10. — After breakfast Mr. Moore took us to
visit the Imperial University. It is built in the
grounds of the former daimyo of Kaga, in a district
of the city called Kanda, five miles from S. Andrew's
House. The buildings, all in modern style, cover
a large extent of ground, and include separate
€olleges for law, medicine, architecture, engineering,
literature, science, and agriculture. The students are
about 700 in number, and live in boarding-houses
outside the University grounds. They know nothing
of college life as we understand the term in England,

102 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

as they only visit the colleges for lectures, and
never live in them. The University is a State in-
stitution, and claims the title of Imperial. It was
founded by the Government in 1856, and its first
name was " Place for the Examination of Barbarian
Writings ; " but seven years later this was changed
to the " Place for Developing and Completing " — a
curious witness, as " Murray" suggests, to the progress
of Japanese thought during the interval.

Professor Dickson kindly showed us round every
department, and gave us much valuable information
about their working. He said that the medical and
philosophical departments were in German hands,
and the rest in English and American ; but that many
leading professors were now Japanese, foreigners being
dispensed with as soon as possible.

The first attraction is the library, which has lecture
rooms attached to it. The collection of books (seven-
teen thousand) is good ; but as they were ordered pro-
miscuously by various professors, they are greatly in
need of organization by one mind ; that is, if they are
ever to become a living whole. From the library we
went to the colleges for architecture, engineering,
and science. It was very suggestive of the continued
fascination of the West for Japan to see photographs
and ground-plans of Italian buildings in the same
room with " sections " of the Mikado's new palace.
And yet more so to find every modern development

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 103

of engineering in a city whose inhabitants forty years
ago had never seen a steamboat.

The Professor said that any missionary influence
would have to be exercised from outside the University.
It would be impossible to gain a place within the
limits of its curriculum, as this excludes all direct
religious instruction, even in Buddhism and Shintoism,
Buddhism being only taught as a phase of philosophy.
Nevertheless, it was encouraging to hear from him
that there are a certain number of Christians among
the students, who have formed a Young Men's Chris-
tian Association. It is managed with characteristic
independence by themselves, all foreign influence
being jealously excluded from it.

Before we left we had a short but very interesting
visit to the Practising Hospital in connection with
the College of Medicine. A crowd was waiting at
the door, and every bed in the wards we entered
was occupied. The nurses, dressed in white, seemed
numerous, and everything looked well kept, but ex-
tremely unlike an English hospital. True, the beds
were of foreign make, instead of Japanese, but each
patient had a little crowd of friends, who sat on the
floor near him or her, made and took tea, talked, and
by no means added to the general airiness ! But
then, as we mentioned in the account of S. Hilda's
Medical Mission, relations and friends are allowed
to visit daily in an ordinary Japanese hospital, and

104 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

to stay as long as they like, or even through the
night.

That evening we dined with Mr. and Mrs. M. It
proved to be a regular Japanese dinner party, and
most interesting and amusing. Our host, a lead-
ing barrister in Tokyo, had visited England, and was
a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn. He therefore talked
English fluently — no small advantage to us, as, not-
withstanding my brother's help, whenever we left the
ordinary line of hotels and sight-seeing, we found our
ignorance of Japanese to be a very real loss.

Mr. M. had invited some other English friends to
meet us, but otherwise the entertainment from first
to last was delightfully Japanese. Our jinrikshas
drew up at the garden door, where some servants met
us, holding Chinese lanterns in their hands. They
conducted us to the house, down a narrow, stony
path, dimly lighted by different coloured fires, and by
lanterns suspended on long bamboo rods. Arrived
at the house, we left our shoes in the verandah, and
were immediately ushered into a large, double re-
ception-room. It had the usual matted floor and
paper-screen walls ; but on the frieze above the
screens there were some boards painted with Japanese
mottoes, and also a picture of our host in his legal
robes. The room had no furniture excepting the large
dinner-table, half a foot high, and made of elaborately-
carved black wood. It had the appearance of being

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 105

one table, but was really eight little ones pushed close
together, so as to bring the guests within ea^y
•distance of each other. At the four corners stood an
andon, or high candlestick, with a paper shade, and
a pale-blue silk cushion marked the place of each guest.
In a few minutes we sat down ; and it must be
acknowledged that we all got extremely stiff sitting
on our heels for over two hours, in spite of being able
to vary the position now and then by sitting sideways,
the only really important point being to conceal one's
feet. But it was more than worth while to sit thus
cramped in order to be able to picture a true Japanese
feast ; and, with a few hints from our friends, we were
enabled to get on without, it is to be hoped, any
serious breach of etiquette. The first course was tea
and coloured sugar flowers, followed by about fifteen
other courses, with a short pause between each, and
a general likeness to each other, though the changes
were run & with great cleverness on varieties of fish
(including raw fish), curry, rice, soup, ginger, salad,
chestnuts, and sake. Each course was arranged on
lovely scarlet or black lacquer trays. The food — an
exactly similar amount for each guest — was served in
little lacquer or china bowls ; and the tray was then
placed before us, and a pair of chop-sticks laid beside
it. When everybody was served, people began to eat
at the same moment, and we soon managed our chop-
sticks with considerable dexteritv. As all the world

106 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

knows, both must be held in the right hand, and the
only chance of success is to keep the lower one steady.
Even then, in manipulating a fish, the temptation is

JAPANESE FISH MERCHANT.

intense to steady the slippery morsel by taking a
chop-stick in each hand ; but we only yielded in cases
of genuine necessity. All through dinner a company
of Japanese musicians — the most famous in Tokyo —

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 107

discoursed music on kotos and samisens in the next
room ; and directly the meal was over our kind host
offered to show us his valuable collection of old
swords. In former days, when every samurai wore
two swords, the art of sword-making was brought
to a wonderful perfection in Japan. But already
American and English curio-collectors have made a
genuine specimen of the old work very difficult to
obtain ; and we were, therefore, deeply interested
in Mr. M.'s collection. Some of his swords were
400 years old, and one had belonged to a famous
hero, and was worth its weight in gold. They were
brought in one by one from the " godown" (or fire-
proof house) in the garden, and he made us notice the
maker's mark on each. It was neither a name nor a
badge, but some small variation in the long, winding
line that marked where the edge was welded to the
back of the blade. He kindly went through a few
cuts and passes for our edification ; and being in full
Japanese costume, we could fancy for a moment how
terrible must have been the onslaught of a warrior
in the old days. We left about 10.30, much delighted
with our entertainment, and the possessors of a fare-
well gift of a large box of sugar sweets.

Oct. 11. — Another beautiful Sunday, warm as a
June day in England. My father went to Yokohama
in the morning, and preached, by request of the
chaplain, the Eev. E. C Irwine, to a crowded congre-

108 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

gation of English residents, and also inspected the
work of the Seamen's Mission. Meantime, my brother
was preaching at S. Andrew's Church, his sermon
being an answer to a book recently put forth by
the Unitarians, who, as a missionary body, are very
active in Japan.

It was impossible not to be struck with the present
complication of religious matters in the country, as
compared with the days of Xavier. Then, on the one
side, there wTas the Buddhist-Shinto creed, undermined
by no Western science, still powerful in its attraction
for the popular mind, and presenting a more or less
solid resistance to the foreign missionary ; and, on
the other, Christianity as represented by Roman
Catholicism, imperfect truly, but without a rival in
dogma or in ritual.

Now, the ranks of Buddhist-Shintoism are hope-
lessly broken ; the superstition of its votaries is
exposed by the strong light of modern science, and
their enthusiasm too often quenched in the deeper
darkness of atheism. Christianity, though present in
much greater force than in the days of' Xavier, is,
alas, not proportionately stronger. The divisions of
Christendom are nowhere more evident than in its
foreign missions to an intellectual people like the
Japanese. The Greek, the Roman, the Anglican
Churches, the endless "splits" of Nonconformity
must and do present to the Japanese mind a

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 109"

bewildering selection of possibilities in religious
truth.

Yet, to one who considers the question from the
standpoint of the Anglican Communion, there is hope
even in this most difficult of problems.

If certain national characteristics more than others
stand out clearly in the past and present history of
Japan, they are these : — First, the national reverence
for historical truth ; second, the national appreciation
of order, whether in things secular or spiritual ;
third, the national patriotism, sufficiently humble to
learn from outsiders, but infinitely too proud to per-
manently resign itself to foreign guidance.

Will a nation with characteristics like these em-
brace Roman Catholicism, with its inevitable ac-
ceptance of a foreign Papacy ? Will it find satisfaction
in the lack of order and the limited teachings of Non-
conformity ? Will it in any case be able to success-
fully imitate the political and social reforms of modern
Europe without the religious foundation on which
each one has been based ?

These questions cannot be avoided. Rather, the
next fifty years will undoubtedly have to answer
them. But, as we said before, it is a truly hopeful
element in their due consideration by one of our
Communion that, under the guidance of the English
and American bishops, the Nippon Sei Ko Kwai, or
Holy Catholic Church in Japan, is now a reality, a

110 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

living factor in the case. In point of numbers it, the
infant national Church, is greatly outdone by other
bodies ; but in moral weight, and in rapidity of
increase,* it is, in the opinion of those well-qualified
to judge, greatly in advance of these.

The very hopefulness of its work, carried out by
a slender body of workers, and with very limited
support, lays a heavy responsibility on our Church.
Let her refuse to estimate the present moment at its
due value, and this opportunity of winning a great
nation of marked individuality to a practical recog-
nition of the Faith may never recur.

On Sunday afternoon Ruth S., the infant daughter
of the Japanese friends who had invited us the previous
week to witness the Ceremonial Tea Drinking, was
baptized in S. Andrew's Church. Her mother was a
Christian, but not so her father, though he gave his
full sanction to the religious views of his family, and it
was at his special request that Mrs. Bickersteth stood
sponsor to the baby.

Oct. 12. — After a quiet morning we spent the,
afternoon in an interesting visit to the great Buddhist
temple of Sensoji, dedicated to Kwannon, the Goddess
of Mercy, and built quite close to the Ueno
Park and Museum. The actual entrance gate is
destroyed, and in its place is a narrow street of small
red-brick shops, filled with toys, china and lacquer

* Its numbers increased fourfold between 1888 and 1891.

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. Ill

goods, intended to attract the worshippers on their
way to the temple services. Passing through this street
we entered a large courtyard, and at once noticed the
flock of sacred pigeons, who hovered above us, and
eagerly ate the grain offered them every few minutes
by the people.

The temple itself is very large, and coloured
bright red. The central hall is 102 feet square, but
the shrine of Kwannon is shut off by lattice-work,
and we could only look through, and watch the
numerous priests who knelt before the altars, while
the noisy crowd of worshippers outside chattered
gaily to each other, pausing occasionally to drop a
small copper coin in the money boxes, clap their
hands, and mutter a short prayer. Little stalls were
erected here and there about the building, at which
priests carried on a good traffic in pictures of
Kwannon, and near one door we noticed an image of
the god Binzuru, the helper of the sick. He was
very fat and very ugly, and his limbs were half
worn away by the rubbing of the faithful. One of
them, a poor woman, came up as we stood there,
diligently rubbed his body and then her own, with
evidently no doubt in his power to help her.
Altogether the temple presented a sad and irreverent
scene, and we were glad to return to the courtyard,
where we spent a few minutes before the stable of the
sacred horse, a spiritless-looking white animal, whose

112 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

life seemed likely to be seriously shortened by the
little plates of beans placed before him every few
seconds by his admirers. Outside the actual court-
yard were large grounds filled with tea-shops,
small theatres, sweet stalls, and performing animals,
which reminded us far more of an English Bank-
holiday scene than the approach to a temple. We
passed quickly through them, and returned to S.
Andrew's House, feeling that the Sensoji temple of
Kwannon was decidedly the most remarkable specimen
yet brought before us of the vulgar, irreverent side
of heathenism in Tokyo.

In the evening we dined at the British Legation,
the Minister and Mrs. Fraser having invited a large
party of friends to meet us. The house is not
large, but the rooms are comfortably furnished, and
the chrysanthemums in the dining-room were lovely.
We specially noticed five low baskets of large white
blossoms edged with a border of tiny yellow ones,
which were placed in the centre of the table.

Oct. 13. — This was our last day in Tokyo, and it
was fully occupied with farewells to the many friends
who had welcomed us to the capital. In the after-
noon there was an interesting gathering of Japanese
Church workers at S. Andrew's House. About sixty
came, nearly all men ; and after Evensong in the
Church, at which my father gave them an address
by interpretation, they gathered in the drawing-

FURTHER JOTTINGS FROM OUR TOKYO JOURNALS. 113

room for tea and cake, and presented him with a
photograph of his reception by all the Christians on
Sept. 26. As Archdeacon Shaw remarked, we had
certainly been connected with the early days of the
Church in Tokyo, every Japanese present having
beoun life as a heathen. In the evening; we went
to a pleasant " At Home " given by the members of
the American Church Mission, and were introduced
to nearly all their workers.

114 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER VI.

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA.

Oct. 14. — We were now to leave Tokyo for a month's
tour among some of the other mission stations of the
Church in Japan. According to the latest calculations,
and including all English, American, and wholly
Japanese Missions, there are now 189 stations of
the Church scattered in various parts of Hondo (the
Main Island), Yezo, Kiushiu, and Awaji. Many
of them are extremely small, consisting of a few
Christians in charge of a catechist among many
thousands of surrounding heathen. Others, like Tokyo
and Osaka, number a fairly large staff of foreign
clergy, and possess good educational establishments.
My brother has appointed three Archdeacons * to help
him in the general superintendence of the Missions,
the great distance he has to travel during the year
making their help in their respective Archdeaconries
specially valuable during his necessarily prolonged
tours in different parts of Japan.

* Archdeacon Shaw, North Japan ; Archdeacon Warren, Mid
Japan ; Archdeacon Maundrell, South Japan.

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 115

The American Mission owes mncli of its success to
Bishop Williams. He has now retired from active
work, but still lives in Tokyo, and does as much as
his health permits in the mission station. Since
his retirement, in 1889, no other American Bishop
has succeeded to his work; but in 1890 and 1891
Bishop Hare, of Dakota, paid a visit to Japan for the
purpose of assisting at the General Synod of the
Church,* and taking Confirmations, etc.

Our limited time made it impossible that my father
should inspect more than a few of the principal stations
of the Church in Japan besides Tokyo, and for the
same reason we could not go to the northern Island
of Yezo, though the work there among the savage
tribes of the Ainu is of peculiar interest.

With these necessary exceptions, my brother's
careful arrangements brought nearly every kind of
missionary work before us, and we also received a
vivid impression of the country and city life in the
south of Japan, an impression quite distinct from
that produced by Tokyo, and far more suggestive
of the old days before the Revolution.

We left Tokyo by the early morning train on the
14th en route to Miyanoshita, a favourite hill station
of both foreigners and Japanese, and often used as a
sanatorium by people living in China. Our party
included my father and brother, Mr. Cholmondeley,
* See note C.

I 2

116 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

(S. Andrew's Mission), Mrs. Bickersteth, and myself ;
and we found the platform quite thronged with people
who had come to say a final good-bye.

My father notes in his diary : " It was really quite
touching to find so many Japanese Christians as well
as English friends on the railway platform to bid us
God-speed on our journey. The warm grasp of hand,
the light in the eye, the tones of the voice, all told
what warm hearts these Japanese Christians have.
They claim our love and labour."

The journey to Miyanoshita took about five and a

half hours. We went first by train along the sea

coast to a place called Kozu, where we entered the

comfortable tramcar to Yumoto, driving along the

famous old " Tokaido " road, the route in old days

of the daimyos and their bands of armed retainers

as they came up from the country to their palaces

(Yashiki) in Yedo. We then went up a beautiful

mountain pass in jinrikshas to Miyanoshita, which is

1400 feet above the sea, and famous for its hot mineral

springs. The Fuji-ya Hotel, where we stayed three

days, is considered the best foreign hotel in Japan.

We certainly found it most comfortable, and the

waiting maids in full Japanese costume redeemed it

from being prosaic. From the hotel itself, and from

the village street we could look down the valley to

the Bay of Odawara, and by a short climb above the

village we could get a fine view of Mount Fuji. It

MIYANOSHITA AND NAOOYA. 119

was only very gradually that we realized the fascina-
tion of this mountain for the Japanese ; but as day
after day the charm of the many mountain ranges of
Japan grew upon us, and yet Mount Fuji always
towered above all, lightly touched with snow even
after the great heat of summer, we could understand
how it seemed to them the ideal of everything lofty
and pure and poetical.*

Oct. 15. — After breakfast we spent an hour in the
famous inlaid wood shops of Miyanoshita. They
are mere rough sheds, open to the village street,
but filled with fascinating screens, cabinets, and
endless small odds and ends, the owners sitting
inside, bowing, smiling, and chattering volumes of
Japanese, with an occasional word of English to tempt
the foreigners, and show their acquaintance with our
nation. We soon learned to say"ifcra?" ("How
much?") and "Amaril" ("Too much!") and" Yoroshil"
("It is well!" practically, "I will take it!"); ges-
tures, smiles, and frowns helping us greatly when my
brother was not at hand with his fluent Japanese.
Everything of native design was very artistic, but a
copy from a foreign model, such as an ordinary table
with, long legs, would fail through being badly pro-
portioned. The beautiful inlaid work is rapidly done,

* The height of Mount Fuji is 12,365 feet — a total that is
easily retained by the memory from its accordance with the
months and days of the year.

120 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

and some specimens we chose in Miyanoshita came to
England in perfect safety by the long sea-route. As
we went down the street we were much amused by the
following English inscription outside one of the houses :
" This house to let having fine location, from which
Fuji San on the up, and Enoshima on the down, can
be viewed when weather most splendidly."

But my brother would not allow us more than an
hour's shopping, and at 10 a.m. we started in Canton
chairs for a trip to Hakone, five miles over the
mountains. After leaving the village, and passing
through some fields of millet, we gradually climbed the
steep ascent of Mount Ashinoyu, a high mountain
which lay between us and Hakone. We passed an
immense figure of the god Jizo cut in the rock at
the wayside. Our chair coolies showed no signs
of reverence for this image ; in fact, all through our
journeys in Japan we were a good deal struck by the
complete indifference of such men to wayside shrines
or temples.

As we descended towards Hakone the beautiful
lake came in sight, and we ought to have had a fine
view of Mount Fuji beyond it ; but in spite of lovely
weather the mountain, except its extreme summit,
was veiled in clouds. The nearer views of the lake
and woods were, however, well worth the journey
from Miyanoshita ; and after luncheon in a Japanese
inn we returned by the same route, passing through

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 121

a long avenue of cryptomeria which reminded us of
the road to Nikko.

We never wearied of these cryptomeria, or giant
firs, and found them in every part of Japan. There
is a pretty story told about those which lead up to
the temples at Nikko, built in memory of Iyeyasu,
Japan's greatest Shogun. It is said they were the
offering of one daimyo, who, being too poor to
present a splendid gift such as his fellow-daimyos
were dedicating to the new temples, planted in-
stead the two long avenues of trees, which [sue now,
nearly two hundred years later, the most striking
and unique offering of all.

Oct. 16. — The following morning we had a de-
lightful expedition to a mountain gorge quite near
Miyanoshita, called Ojigoku (or Big Hell). Its name
is derived from some very remarkable hot sulphur
springs, the steam of which rises through nume-
rous cracks in the soil. All the ground near them,
except the actual path, is very treacherous, and
we were told that from time to time the lives of
visitors had been lost there. The whole gorge was
destitute of vegetation ; but after climbing over the
rough blocks of sulphur to the summit, we were
rewarded by a wonderful view of the wooded valley
and lake of Hakone, Mount Fuji rising in unclouded
beauty above all, and the scene being a remarkable
contrast to the desolate gorge behind us.

122 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

We returned to Miyanoshita by 1.30, and in the
afternoon my father and I climbed a neighbouring
hill (a thousand feet high) to watch the sunset over
Mount Fuji. The view was one of the loveliest we
had in Japan, though in that land of mountains and
woods the scenery scarcely ever lacks beauty, in one
form or another. Below us lay the pretty mountain
village, and on our right the fertile plain of Yumoto
and Odowara, with the gleaming line of the Pacific in
the extreme distance. On our left rose the long
range of mountain peaks, Mount Fuji looking like a
queen in their midst, her crown of snow bathed in the
deep crimson of the sunset sky. We were standing near
the summit of the hill when we noticed a little Japan-
ese woman, who had patiently followed us up the zig-
zag path from Miyanoshita, hoping to sell us some soda-
water from the neighbouring wooden house of which
she was the owner. She opened the house, and spread
out her wares ; but as we were returning to tea in the
hotel, we did not require them. However, to com-
pensate her for her trouble, my father gave her a small
coin, and in her fervent gratitude that little woman
trotted immediately before us all the way down again,
kicking every big stone out of our path — a very
kind attention to us, but a more doubtful one to the
owner of the property.

Oct. 17. — We left Miyanoshita the next morning
at 5.50 a.m. in perfect weather, retracing our steps

MIYANOSIIITA AND NAGOYA. 125

down the mountain pass to Yumoto, where we took
the tramcar to Kozu, and went by train to Nagoya,
a journey of some 200 miles. For three hours the
line skirted Mount Fuji ; and being one of the most
beautiful in Japan, we had constant glimpses of
woodland, and waterfalls, and of the il royal moun-
tain," as my father called it, from every point of
view.

It was also a real interest to watch our Japanese
fellow-travellers. They seemed most comfortable in
a railway carriage ; and a lady, who evidently found
the effort to balance herself on the high foreign seat
rather tiring, soon solved the difficulty by tucking up
her feet, and sitting on her heels as usual, though of
course at a greater elevation. We heard some quaint
stories while in Japan of the first beginning of rail-
Avays. For instance, one man waited all day at the
station hoping the fares would diminish by the
evening ; and numbers of passengers, by mere force
of custom, took off their wooden clogs before entering
the train, as if it had been a house, but were greatly
discomfited to find themselves shoeless at the other
end, having expected the clogs would somehow or
other follow their owners !

Soon after noon we left Mount Fuji, passing through
a carefully-cultivated plain, which was skirted by the
sea on the left, and the hills on the right. The rice
harvest was going on, and the fields often reminded

126 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

us of wheat-fields at home, though of course in many
ways they were very different. The sheaves were
much smaller, and being slung by their stalks on
long bamboo poles, looked upside down, according
to English ideas. When properly dried, the rough
wooden rice-rake is passed through them, and the
grain falls into straw mats below, the straw being
used for putting under matted floors, etc. Many of
the fields had been prepared for the ensuing season —
that is, they had been flooded with water in which
the grain had been sown ; and when the young plants
had grown to some height, they would be plucked
up and transplanted at wider intervals.

At Hamamatsu we passed over one end of a lagoon,
formerly a lake, but an earthquake in 1499 had
broken down the neck of land between it and the sea.
It was thronged with fishing-boats, and with junks
whose great brown sails were stiffened with bamboo
rods rather after the fashion of a modern crinoline.

The daylight gradually faded, and it was quite
dark when, at 6 p.m., we arrived at Nagoya, a city of
162,000 people, where we received a warm welcome
from Mr. and Mrs. Cooper Eobinson, a missionary of
the Canadian Church, and his wife, who had invited
us to be their guests while in the city. Nagoya
was formerly the residence of the powerful Princes
of Owari, whose castle, now in the hands of the
Government, is in perfect preservation, and reckoned

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 127

to be the finest in Japan. Mr. and Mrs. Robinson
lived in a pretty Japanese house, at one time occupied
by a Japanese officer, but now furnished in English
fashion, and, except for its paper walls, most homelike
in appearance.

Oct. 18 (Sunday). — We certainly had a most inter-
esting Sunday. Nagoya is but little affected as yet
by Western thought, and being at the same time a
stronghold of Buddhism, it is one of the few places in
which missionaries have been actively opposed. Our
missions had only been established three years, and
we were told that at first the people threatened to
burn down the preaching-house and stone the mission-
aries. But the work was quietly pursued, and it
was only when all opposition had died away that Mr.
Robinson found the authorities had thought it neces-
sary to provide a guard of fifteen or twenty policemen
to keep off an assault on him and his colleagues.

At 9.30 that morning we went down to the
preaching-station. It was an ordinary house with
the screens removed, so as to form one large room,
and with its Holy Table, prayer-desk, and harmonium,
looked a good deal like a mission chapel in England.
About seventeen Japanese were present, and the ser-
vice began with the confirmation of three candidates,
an old man of sixty, and two young women. My
brother gave an extempore address in Japanese, and
we could not help thinking what a real missionary

128 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Bishop he looked, as he stood in that plain little room,
and spoke so earnestly to the newly-made converts.
Two hymns were sung, one being, " 0 Jesus, I have
promised " ; and, after the Confirmation, the Holy
Communion was celebrated, ten Japanese and five
English communicating. It was quite possible for us
to follow with our English prayer-books, though any
extra collect made rather a difficulty ; but even then
some foreign word like " Sacramento " or " Episcopo "
would soon be used, and guide us back to the right
place. Instead of feeling the two languages a bar-
rier, they seemed to make the unity of the Church a
greater reality.

In the afternoon we had English Evensong in
Mr. Eobinson's drawing-room. All the American
Nonconformist missionaries in Nagoya and some
English travellers attended ; and my father preached
a sermon on Romans viii. 32. In the evening he
gave an address to non-Christians at the preaching-
house, and says in his diary : '■ I went down again
with Mr. Robinson to the preaching-house, where they
sang hymns, and two Christian Japanese laymen (one
a tutor and one a catechist) spoke to them, and I
addressed them, the catechist interpreting, for fifteen
or twenty minutes. They were most attentive, and
the Buddhist, who had been the most violent opponent
some months ago, was there a patient listener. The
old man, who had been confirmed in the morning,

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/■

K

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 131

when Mr. Kobinson asked him what he meant to do
with the idol he had in his hand, and its costly
lacquered and gilded box, said he thought he should
sell it, as it was worth some thirty dollars (£5). Mr.
Kobinson asked what we should advise. It was a
difficult question, as thirty dollars was a great sum to
the poor old man ; but the question was delightfully
solved, in the evening, by the old man coming up to
Mr. Eobinson and saying he would give him the idol.

" Mr. Robinson gets hold of many persons at the
door (of the preaching-house), takes their shoes and
places them on the shelf, and thus often secures
auditors. He goes now to two villages — one of nearly
10,000 and another of 5,000 people — where they have
scarcely ever seen an European, and preaches in the
village theatre. There was a strong feeling against
the missionaries at first ; but it has passed away now,
and there is a great door and effectual open."

Oct. 19. — We spent most of the morning at the
Castle. It is still the headquarters of the garrison,
but only the outer enceinte is occupied by them, the
citadel and Palace being kept as national monuments.
Both here and at Osaka enormous blocks of stone are
used in the walls, and at first sight it is a genuine
puzzle to know how such stones could have been
conveyed to the spot.

Crossing over the moat and through the great gate-
way we went first of all to the Palace. The rooms are

K 2

132 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

now destitute of matting and furniture, but the slid-
ing screens between are covered with paintings by
some of the first artists in Japan, and the open-work
frieze, used for ventilation, is carved in birds and
flowers as delicate as those at Nikko. We noticed
a curious creaking of the boards as we passed over
them, just like a gentle twittering of birds, which
Mr. Kobinson explained was produced by some
special arrangement of the nails holding them to-
gether, and was intended to warn the inmates of the
approach of thieves. He also called our attention to
the very simple apartments of the earlier princes, as
compared with the highly-decorated ones of their
successors.

AVe passed quietly from room to room, and, as we
studied their pictured walls, it was no difficult task to
let the glamour of the old days steal over us. The
soft air of the princely court yet lingered about
them ; the scenes of religious or court festival were
vividly represented on their screens and corridors.
We could almost hear the quiet footsteps of the
warriors and courtiers as they passed over the softly-
matted floors, and could enter into the deadly in-
trigues and bitter warfare that took their rise in this
palace of old days. Vengeance and bloodshed, art
and courtesy — all had left their mark, and the energy
for o;ood and evil to which its walls bore witness
seemed a pledge that Japan of to-day will not be

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 135

daunted in her efforts at self-endowment with all that
the nineteenth century has placed at the disposal of
other nations, always supposing she submits herself to
the Faith which is the mainspring of all true progress.

The Castle (including both palace and keep) was
built in 1610 a.d. by twenty feudal lords as a
residence for the Princes of Owari, who were closely
allied with the Shoguns at Tokyo. The keep was the
work of a celebrated General named Kato Kyomasa,
whose home we afterwards visited at Kumamoto. It
is five storeys high, the lowest one being made of
huge stones, the others of wood covered with stucco.
The roofs, five in number, are covered with copper, and
on the uppermost there are two dolphins, made of
gold and enclosed in wire netting. They are valued
at 180,000 dollars,* and one was sent to the Vienna
Exhibition in 1873. It was unfortunately wrecked
on the return voyage in a Messageries Maritimes
steamer, but was rescued with difficulty, and restored
to its place in the keep, to the great satisfaction of
the Japanese. We climbed to the highest storey, and
were rewarded by a fine view of the great plain of
Nagoya and the amphitheatre of distant hills.

AVe spent the afternoon in a visit to some cloisonne-
enamel, china, and paper-lantern shops. The entrance
of the first looked by no means promising, being a
good deal like a stable door in a London back street,
* Roughly about £30,000.

136 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

but it admitted us into a fairyland of art and beauty.
We spent a long time in the various work-shops,
watching the cloisonne in each stage. The articles
to be decorated, whether plaque, vase, or incense-jar,
were made in many different materials — bronze, china,
pottery, etc. The pattern was then drawn on them
in tiny pin-holes and lines, into which gold or silver
wire was introduced, the wire rising a little above the
general surface, and all interstices being filled in with
oil painting. The whole was then covered with thick
clay and " fired," after which it had to go through a
lengthy process of rubbing in order to remove the
clay. Fine specimens would require a year or more
of this rubbing, but the result was beautiful. Beneath
the highly-polished surface appeared the sketch of
birds and flowers, most true to nature, and with every
vein in the leaf, or feather in a bird's wing, delicately
marked by the wire.

Some of the men were painting from nature, and
each one seemed an artist. Others were not working
at cloisonne, but were covering china tea-pots and
vases with pale pink and blue dust. Designs of birds,
grasses, and flowers, would be afterwards added, and
their work also would be " fired." The different
specimens of both china and cloisonne that we bought
have been greatly admired. Our purchases were
not at all extensive, but the owner was so pleased
that he asked us each to choose a present from his

M1YAN0SEITA AND NAGOYA. 137

show-room, and afterwards sent Mrs. Kobinson three
tea-pots and two vases.

After leaving the factory we went to a china-shop,
and saw many fine specimens of Seto mono and Kaga
ware, visiting also a Chinese lantern-maker, where
paper lanterns could be bought painted in beautiful
designs. There is evidently no falling off in the
artistic power of the people. The only danger is lest
now, when they take orders from the owner of a
factory, who is bound to supply the foreign market,
they should execute these orders with modern rapidity
and carelessness. In the old days each workman was
in the employ of his feudal lord, and recognised
as an artist. His daily wants were provided for, so
that he was free to work out each design in full per-
fection, very seldom repeating it, and generally content
to be entirely unknown to the outside world.

In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Eobinson held a
reception in their drawing-room for the Christians.
Seventeen accepted the invitation, including both
men and women and several boys. They represented
several ranks of society, from a leading lawyer to a
blind basket-maker ; and though class-distinctions are
carefully observed in Japan, their natural courtesy
enabled them to meet without any of the awkward-
ness that might have attended such a party in other
countries. Despite the difficulty of language, we soon
made friends with them, and had a very pleasant

138 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

evening. My father talked to each guest in turn, with
my brother as his interpreter, while Mrs. Bickersteth
gathered the boys round her and taught them how
to make paper boxes ; and I showed my case of
home photographs. Among these were some of
the interior and exterior of our Cathedral at Exeter,
which seemed to fascinate them all. They eagerly
showed each other how the nave was connected with
the choir, and were much moved by the beauty of
the building. The photograph next in popularity
was one of my brother, the Vicar of Lewisham, and
his wife and five little sons, which evidently appealed
to their strong love of home-life.

One of these Nagoya boys interested us greatly.
He was the son of a gentleman, and, though still a
catechumen, was to be baptized in a few days.

He had a quantity of curly black hair — an un-
common possession in Japan — and a bright, earnest
face. Mr. Eobinson having given him a book of en-
gravings to look at, with illustrations of the Bible,
he sat down at once, and took careful notes of each
picture in a pocket-book, looking out the story in his
New Testament, which he had brought with him.
He had been much persecuted by his mother, but had
kept very firm, and told Mr. Robinson he wanted to
be like S. Paul, and learn a trade to support himself,
and spend all his spare time in spreading Christianity.

His great friend, the son of a colonel in Nagoya,

MIYANOSHITA AND NAGOYA. 139

sat next him, and they were to be baptized together.
At 9 o'clock trays of tea and little coloured cakes
were brought in, and the evening closed with short
Japanese prayers, and an address from my brother.
The entire simplicity and earnestness of that little
band of converts from the great heathen city of
Nagoya made a deep impression on us, and we much
hoped that their desire for a Mission Church, towards
which my father gave the first subscription, would
soon be fulfilled.

Oct. 20. — We left Nagoya at 9 a.m. on the following
morning, en route to Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan,
and our host and several of the Christians kindly came
to the station to see us off. We had a few minutes
to wait before the train came in, and found that, as
usual, we were objects of great curiosity in the waiting-
room and on the platform. A crowd of perhaps fifty
persons gathered round us, and when we bowed and
smiled, they would gently stroke our dress, as great a
curiosity to them as theirs was to us. One of them,
a young man, who was walking up and down the
platform, greatly amused us. He was in full English
costume, and might have passed for an Oxford or
Cambridge undergraduate, had not his hands been
neatly encased in white cotton gloves. But gloves
and hats are still a novelty in many parts of Japan,
and it is scarcely a wonder that they do not find a
suitable home at once.

140 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Our journey took us past Gifu, where Mr. and Mrs.
Chappell, the C.M.S. missionary and his wife, came to
greet us at the station. We little guessed that Gifu,
Ogaki. and many other places which so delighted us
that day, with their peaceful beauty and quaint feudal
castles, would only eight days later he a scene of utter
desolation from the great earthquake.

After leaving the plain of Nagoya, we passed
through some fine mountain scenery, the line run-
ning close to the shores of Lake Biwa. We were
interested to see Otsu, where the Czarevitch had been
attacked the previous spring, and the time passed
all too quickly before the train arrived at Kyoto.

( 141 )

CHAPTER VII.

KYOTO.

Kyoto, the ancient capital of the Mikados, is now far
behind Tokyo in size and population, though in
picturesqueness and historical interest it greatly out-
does its modern rival ; and from the moment we left
the railway station we could see how little the streets
had been touched by the new life of Japan. Religious
fairs were going on in many parts of the city, and
these, and the numerous priests among the crowds of
passers-by, proved how powerful was the influence
that the old religion and social customs still exercise
upon the people.

Our hotel — Yaamis — was built half-way up one of
the hills which surround the city. From its win-
dows and garden the view was remarkably striking,
and from the summit of the hill above, to which we
climbed soon after our arrival, it was even finer, as
each temple and public building in the great city
stood out clearly from the surrounding sea of houses,
and all were bathed in the glow of an autumn sunset.
We descended the hill rather quickly, as daylight

142 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

was nearly gone, and, missing our way, found our-
selves in a large cemetery. It was carefully kept,
but there was an intense dreariness in its long lines
of dark granite headstones, some carved into rough
representations of the four elements, and others in
the shape of a lotus-flower, the Buddhist emblem of
immortality. We were trying various paths in order
to reach the main road, when we came quite suddenly
on a grave surmounted by a Latin cross. The cross
was covered with gold, and stood on a block of stone
placed just below the fringe of dark fir-trees that
edged the cemetery. As it caught the glow of the
sunset light it seemed a beautiful emblem of the
victory that Christianity was beginning to win over
heathenism even in the dark city below us.

Oct. 21. — The following morning we went out early,
accompanied by the Eev. C. Ambler, an American
missionary of the Church in Japan. Our first halt
was at a large new temple which is being built by
private subscriptions in order to replace one destroyed
by fire a few years ago. Since our return to England
we have heard this temple quoted as a proof of the
renewed vigour of Japanese Buddhism ; but in reality
it is a most powerful witness to its decay. In many
cases the appeals on its behalf were indignantly re-
sented. Subscriptions came in very slowly, and
were nearly all sent by only two out of the eighty-
four provinces of the Empire which had remained

KYOTO. 145

faithful to the old creeds. The effort could scarcely,
therefore, be described either as a national one, or a
proof of the renewed vigour of Buddhism in Japan.

From the new temple we went to one of the most
ancient, the Nishi Hongwanji, or headquarters of
the Hongwanji sect of the Buddhists. Its propor-
tions were finer than any of those which we had
yet seen, and in the magnificence of its bronze
and gold lacquer -work it reminded us of Nikko, and
the Shiba temples at Tokyo. We spent some time
inside it, and on coming out into the courtyard again
we noticed a very large fir-tree, each branch of which
was supported by wooden crutches. " Murray " said
this tree was supposed to protect the temple from
fire "by discharging showers of water whenever a
conflagration in the neighbourhood threatens danger."
We then visited the Amidado, a smaller temple in
the same courtyard, but were not allowed to enter
the beautiful State apartments adjoining it — used
by the Eoyal family — as the Empress-Dowager was
in Kyoto, and they expected her at the temple
that morning. We therefore decided to visit the
Imperial Gardens before luncheon. They are two and
a half miles out of the city, and mark how it has
shrunk from its ancient limits. We were very for-
tunate to see them, as they are generally closed to
visitors ; but a Japanese friend in Tokyo had kindly
procured a special order for us. When we presented

146 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

this order at the entrance, the lodge-keeper put it
on the ground, and prostrated himself so often before
it that it seemed a little doubtful if he would ever
be ready to show us the way. In many respects
the gardens reminded us of those we had seen at
Tokyo, but in others they were much more beautiful.
The trees, instead of being dwarfed, were, as a rule,
allowed to grow to their full height; the actual
grounds were more extensive, and there was no
uncomfortable sense of closely-clipped accuracy such
as we had felt at Tokyo.

The polite attendant showed us over the various
summer-houses which were scattered about the gar-
dens. One was intended for the Tea Ceremonies,
and others for dwelling-houses, but all were abso-
lutely simple in design and decoration, the idea of
surrounding the Mikado, the " Son of Heaven," with
earthly magnificence being quite a modern one.

In the afternoon we went to the the Imperial
Palace and Nijo Castle, which are both within the
limits of the city itself; but again the Empress-
Dowager's presence in Kyoto made any entrance to
them impossible. The Imperial Palace is a modern one,
built in 1856, after the destruction of its predecessor
by fire, but the Nijo Castle was erected in 1691 by
the Shoguns, or military rulers. It was a great
pity we were obliged to miss seeing its beautiful
rooms, in one of which the present Mikado met his

KY010. 147

Council of State in 1868, and swore to grant a de-
liberative assembly to the nation. We paused next
for a few minutes outside the Doshisha, or Christian
University, founded in 1875 by the American Non-
conformists. It is a handsome group of buildings,
and in spite of the recent anti-foreign reaction, still
numbers 700 students. It includes a Theological
Department, Girls' School, Science School, Hospital,
and Training School for Nurses. We wished indeed
that such a powerful missionary weapon was in the
hands of our Church ; but our mission station in
Kyoto is of very recent date, and at present has
only one missionary, and a small native congrega-
tion.

On our way back to the hotel we visited a silk
and crepe factory. Its employes were all seated on
the floor before low frames containing their work,
which looked more like delicate painting than silk
embroidery. Yet we were told that this modern
embroidery falls far below the standard of old days,
and we could see it for ourselves from some fragments
of old festival dresses that we picked up at another
shop. The owner begged us to buy them, saying it
would be impossible to reproduce them now, and would
cost five times as much as in the old days even to
make the attempt.

Oct. 22. — The following morning we made a de-
lightful expedition to the rapids of the Katsuragawa.

L 2

148 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

It was a lovely autumn day — just what we needed for
our expedition ; and after breakfast at 7.30, we started
in four jinrikshas for our ride of about fifteen miles
over the great plain of Kyoto and up the surrounding
hills to the little village of Hodsugawa, where the
Bishop said he could engage a boat to take us down
the famous rapids. We passed many delightful
groups of country folk ; peasants bringing in sup-
plies for the city markets in carts drawn by straw-san-
dalled oxen ; closely-shaven priests, and pilgrims with
quaint hats like reversed waste-paper baskets ; fat
babies left alone in padded hampers to survey passing
travellers, but never an idle man or woman. The
colouring was most beautiful, and we never wearied
of admiring the lovely woods of dark cryptomeria
relieved by graceful bamboos or scarlet maples, and
the neat little gardens, from which our jinriksha
men did not scruple to pick any flower they thought
we should appreciate. Arrived at last at Hod-
sugawa, we found a long canoe which easily took
in three of our jinrikshas, our four selves, and several
boatmen. To suit the convenience of the foreigners,
one very high seat, in the shape of a narrow
plank, had been fitted across the boat, and, perched
side by side on this, we were able to enjoy all the fun
and beauty of our trip down the river. True, it
needed some care to maintain our equilibrium, for the
sun compelled us to hold up parasols, and the time

KYOTO. 149

of day compelled us to take our luncheon, packed with
characteristic Japanese neatness in four white wooden
boxes, worthy to contain delicate Swiss carving.
But, fortunately for us, the rapids were not continu-
ous, and we were sufficiently comfortable to enjoy
every exciting moment.

I only wish words could fully describe the ex-
periences of the next hour and half. Now a quiet
reach of water, when the men worked steadily with
two clumsy oars on one side of the boat only ; then
in a moment we were rushing down a rapid, just
shaving a jagged brown rock, and sprayed by the
water as it foamed past us, until we found it difficult
to believe that the thin pliant planks beneath our
feet, which swayed like the breast of the sleeping
lady in Madame Tussaud's, could preserve us from
a plunge in the chilly waters of the Katsuragawa !
The pleasant rush and excitement lasted but a few
seconds, and again we were in a quiet pool, looking
up to the wooded hills that towered above us, and at
another boat whose men were slowly tugging it up
the river, jumping and slipping from rock to rock on
the banks. Yet with never a pause sufficient to cause
weariness, for — rush and swirl — we are in again. We
graze a rock ! Is there a hole in our boat ? No ;
we are safely through ; and one of our oarsmen is
pulling the cork of a bottle destined for our luncheon,
though in ten seconds or less he will be due at his

150 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

post in another rapid ! The real tug of war came on
the steersman, who stood erect and graceful at the
prow, with only a long bamboo to use as a rudder,
but with as complete a control of the boat as if he
had the latest improvement in steering by electricity
at his disposal, — landing us an hour and a half later
at Arashiyama, with the pleasantest recollections of
the Eapids of the Katsuragawa.

Oct. 23. — We were up again early, and started in
jinrikshas by 8.30 for Lake Biwa, and the town of
Otsu, where the Czarevitch was attacked last spring.
We had again a very interesting ride along the high
road for some seven miles — passing every class of
peasant, and seeing every feature of their life. Jin-
riksha riding is rather unsociable work, as the men
insist on following each other in as strict procession
as the Noah's Ark animals of one's childhood, and it
is therefore very difficult to carry on a conversation.
But they are most courteous in their care of their
customers, always ready to tuck you up in their
scarlet rugs, or to describe the scenery in the most
fluent of Japanese, and only laughing merrily when
you cannot understand a word of what they have
said. Every few miles they stop at a tea-house for
a tiny cup of tea, or water, or crushed ice, and a
smoke. Their heaviest meal is not taken until they
reach their destination, and consists of rice with a little
curry, or a chestnut or two — beside which an English

KYOTO. 151

dinner would look truly formidable. If any member
of the party walks for a while, the men in charge
of the vacant jinriksha invariably run to the help of
their neighbours instead of taking a rest themselves,
and all through the longest journey they will chatter
and laugh — even up a hilly road that would ruin the
lungs of an Englishman.

Otsu has a population of 30,000, and is built on
the shore of Lake Biwa. We left our jinrikshas near
a long flight of steps leading up to some Shinto
temples, from which we had a fine view of the lake
and of Otsu itself. The lake was beautifully blue,
and surrounded by mountains, and we noticed any
number of little fishing-boats, with their square white
or brown sails, on its waters. From the temples we
went on for a mile and a half to see a remarkable
pine tree, of untold age and great sanctity ! It was
well worth a visit as a curiosity, though too stiffly
trained to be beautiful. The widespreading branches
were supported on numerous wooden crutches resting
on stone cushions, and there was a little wooden roof
over the top. The dimensions were as follows : —
Height, 90 feet ; circumference of trunk, over 37 feet ;
length of branches — from east to west, 240 feet ;
from north to south, 288 feet; number of branches
over 380 — the age being apparently quite unknown.
We went on to Sakamoto, a lovely spot in the hills,
and famous for its temples, which are approached by

152 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

a long avenue of cryptomeria, and hundreds of the
torii, or curious Japanese arches of stone, bronze, or
lacquered wood, that mark the neighbourhood of any
sacred place. We lunched on one of the three fine
stone bridges that span the mountain stream near
the temples, and returned to Kyoto in time to pay
a visit to one of its most famous temples and
monasteries, Chion-in, the principal monastery of the
Jodo sect of the Buddhists.

As we entered the temple we noticed a great crowd
of Japanese seated before the rail which shut off the
central shrine, and saying their prayers in a loud mono-
tone " Namu Amida Butsu11 — ("We worship thee,
great Buddha "). The same words were repeated by
all, and this for hundreds of times, with an accom-
paniment of wooden clappers, struck with most un-
pleasant effect by some priests and women in the
crowd. But a few minutes later all was changed at
the entrance of two priests, dressed, one in gold and
vivid green, and the other in gold and brown. The
senior priest said a few prayers before the altar, and
then advanced to a high red lacquer pulpit chair
placed within the rail. He seated himself with great
dignity, and having arranged his robes, pulled down
a scarlet and gold ante-pendium before the pulpit
desk, and struck one blow on a clapper with truly
instantaneous effect. Every " Amida Butsu " was cut
short at the sound, and amid dead silence he read a

KYOTO. 153

few sentences from a manuscript, followed by a prayer,
in which all joined. He then began to preach —
according to the Bishop in very perfect Japanese —
urging upon his hearers the virtues of the wholesome
medicine of Buddhism. But we had yet to visit an
Imperial Palace in the grounds of the monastery, and
we only stayed for a few minutes of his discourse,
though the scene, with its strange mingling of beauty
of colour, and sad dreariness and emptiness of
worship, was indelibly stamped on our minds.

Oct. 24. — We spent the next morning in some visits
to a few of the most famous temples in Kyoto. One
of the largest, called Kyomizudera, is built on the hill
near Yaami's Hotel, and from its wooden platform,
used for sacred dances, we had another fine view of
the city, and could even see the smoke of Osaka,
some forty miles away, in the extreme distance. In
an adjoining hall we saw some curious ex-voto tablets,
thickly stuck with lumps of paper. These lumps, my
brother told us, were charms, which, after being
moistened in the mouth, were aimed at the tablet,
and (in the opinion of the Japanese) were efficacious
if they stuck. We next visited a huge image of
Buddha, erected in a large wooden building in another
part of the city. The present image was made in
1801, but it was the successor of several others, the
earliest of which dated from 1588. It only repre-
sented the head and shoulders of Buddha, but the

154 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

dimensions were as follows : Height, 58 feet ; face,
30 feet by 21 feet ; eyebrow, 8 feet ; eye, 5 feet ;
nose, 9 feet ; mouth, 8 feet 7 inches ; ear, 1 2 feet,
and breadth of the shoulders, 43 feet. It was made
of wood, and the head covered with gilt, but a less
prepossessing expression could scarcely be imagined.

Before returning home we went to San-ju- gen-do,
or the Temple of the 33,333 Images of Kwannon, the
Goddess of Mercy. It was a large building, and the
hall was not divided into several shrines, but entirely
devoted to Kwannon. In the centre stood a fine
image of the goddess surrounded by twenty-eight of
her followers, and ranged on either side was a gilded
phalanx, about four deep, of other images of her.
They numbered 1000 in all, or 33,333 if all the tiny
gods held in their numerous sets of arms, or affixed
to their halos, are included in the grand total. It
was a most remarkable sight, and yet a very pathetic
one. The face of Kwannon is always made with an
expression of pity, and thus seems to bear witness
to the intense, but, alas unsatisfied longings of
heathenism after a Divine sympathy.

( 157 )

CHAPTER VIII.

OSAKA.

We returned to Yaami's Hotel, and left Kyoto soon
after luncheon for Osaka, where my father was to in-
spect the work of the central C.M.S. Mission. Arch-
deacon "Warren, the senior missionary, had sent him
the following letter of welcome soon after our arrival
in Japan, and my father had gladly consented to its
proposal that he should lay the foundation-stone of
the new mission Church at Fukuyama, an old feudal
city some hundred and forty miles from Osaka.

" On behalf of the members of the C.M.S. Mission
I beg to offer your Lordship a hearty welcome to
Japan, and to assure you of the deep interest we feel
in your visit. Your warm attachment to our beloved
Society, and the many and great services you have
rendered it, assure us that your visit, though of a
private character, will greatly help us in our work.
We shall be greatly encouraged by your Lordship's
presence and counsel in the several districts it may
be possible for you to visit, and we confidently antici-
pate that when you return to England your reports

158 JAPAN AS WE SAW II.

of the progress and development of the work will be
a means of deepening the interest felt in it by the
Church at home.

" I have expressed to our beloved Bishop my
desire that if possible your Lordship should visit
Fukuyama when you are in this neighbourhood ; and
if this can be arranged, I hope you will consent to
lay the foundation-stone of the little Church to be
erected there.

" Praying that your Lordship and Mrs. and Miss
Bickersteth may be refreshed by your visit,
" Believe me,

" Yours very faithfully,

" Charles F. Warren,

" Sec. C. M.S.— Japan Mission."

Osaka is a large city (476,000 inhabitants) on the
sea -coast, and only an hour and a half's railway jour-
ney from Kyoto. It is the Liverpool of Japan — more
useful, therefore, than ornamental in appearance ; but
its long rows of merchants' offices and shops are
redeemed from monotony by the numerous canals,
crossed by a number of fine bridges, which intersect
every part of the city.

We had a pleasant journey from Kyoto, and were
met at Osaka station by the clergy and Mission
ladies. A large number of Japanese were also
present, who bowed such a graceful welcome that we

OSAKA. 159

were really thankful when our English friends carried
off our bags, &c, and we could bow in return, from
the time we left the train until we were safely settled
in our jinrikshas.

My father and brother and Mrs. Bickersteth were

the o'uests of Archdeacon and Miss Warren during

© ©

our visit to Osaka, and I stayed with Miss K. Tristram,
daughter of Canon Tristram of Durham, and Lady
Principal of the Bishop Poole Memorial Girls' School.
Most of the missionaries' houses, and also the
Divinity School, Girls' School, and Home for Training
Native Mission Women, are built on the Concession,
the only piece of land in the Treaty Ports that the
Japanese would let to foreigners when their country
was first opened to the outer world. It was very
pleasant to be welcomed by so many English friends,
and very interesting to gather some idea of their
work during our week among them.

Oct. 25. — Sunday was, as usual, a fine day ; in fact,
we only had three rainy days during nearly eight
weeks in Japan. At 9.30 we went to the Japanese
Celebration of Holy Communion in Holy Trinity
Church, a plain but roomy building within a walk of
the Mission houses. There were eighty-four Com-
municants at the service, and of this number seventy-
three were Japanese, the larger proportion being men.

In the afternoon my father preached, by interpre-
tation, at the second Mission Church, the Church of the

160 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Saviour. He also gave an address in English at
the Divinity College Chapel, where we and the
missionaries met at 5 p.m. for Evensong. A large
number of American Nonconformists came to this
service.

Oct. 26. — The following morning he inspected
the Bishop Poole Girls' school. It is a large red-
brick building in foreign style, and has a central
quadrangle, which makes a capital playground for the
girls. In one corner are Miss Tristram's private
rooms, within easy reach of the large schoolroom,
class-rooms, and dormitories. The school, which
numbered fifty pupils at that time, was steadily
increasing. The girls came from various ranks of
society, and, like those we had seen at S. Hilda's
School, Tokyo, received a thorough Japanese educa-
tion, and definite Christian teaching also. They met
for prayers at 8 o'clock in the large schoolroom, and
the Bible was taught during the first hour of school.
It was a powerful testimony to the influence of Miss
Tristram and her fellow teachers that nearly all their
fifty pupils had now been baptized.

We went through the various class-rooms, and
watched the writing, or rather the rapid painting, in
Indian ink, of the terribly elaborate Chinese and
Japanese characters. In Japanese schools the same
piece of paper is used over and over again as a copy-
book until it is wholly black. But the pupils can

(/i^

OSAKA. 161

somehow distinguish the letters they are practising
when freshly painted over an old copy, though a
stranger would wholly fail in doing so. Among other
things, they learn the arrangement of flowers, which
is a serious study in Japan, requiring a two years'
course of lessons before it can be mastered. A care-
ful design is carried out in each group or spray of
flowers, so that in a branch of cherry blossom, for
instance, the angles of each twig seem always to occur
in a given place. The other twigs are probably cut
away to ensure this, the somewhat stiff attitude of
the branch in its vase being secured by a tiny crutch
or two placed in the stem of the vase. Each flower
has a hidden meaning, and as much attention is
bestowed on the effect of the shadows as on that of
the actual specimens. The Japanese never attempt
to mass flowers together, nor fail to include a few
grasses, or a spray of leaves in their bouquets. My
father gave a short address in each class-room, with
Archdeacon Warren as his interpreter, and then a
longer one in the large school-room to the assembled
pupils. The girls then sang some English glees to
us, and one of them played very well on an American
organ.

From the school we went to the Home for Native
Mission Women. Ten women are now being trained
in it, who promise to be valuable helpers in the
future to the staff of English mission ladies.

M

162 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

In the afternoon we visited Osaka Castle, from the
walls of which a very fine view of the city, and plain,
and of the distant Inland Sea, could be obtained.
The Castle was built in 1583 by Hideyoshi, one of
the greatest generals Japan has ever known, and the
same man who invented the curious Tea Ceremonies
in order to " calm the spirits " of his subordinates
before a council in war.

There are a number of huge blocks of stone in
the walls, about which the Archdeacon told us the
following story. Hideyoshi started a competition
among the daimyos as to who could furnish him with
the largest block of stone, and offered a reward to the
man who brought such a stone to Osaka. The prize
was duly gained by one of the daimyos, and the
general then told the others to remove their blocks.
They refused to do so, on account of the trouble and
cost it had required to bring them to Osaka. Hide-
yoshi then used the prize block, and all the others,
for the new Castle which he was building in the city
in order to overawe the south and west provinces of
Japan. This accounted of course for the unusual size
of the stones ; but until lately nobody could explain
with certainty by what means they had been brought.
Then, a boat having grounded on a supposed rock in
the river, the rock was examined, and proved to be
a block of stone very similar to those now in the
Castle walls, showing that water must have been the

OSAKA. 163

means of transit, and that one daimyo had been
unfortunate enough to lose his block just as it arrived
at its destination.

The fine Palace and other buildings within the
walls were destroyed by fire in 1868, and the space
is now occupied by some modern-looking barracks,
used as the headquarters of the military force at
Osaka. "We returned home before sunset, and in the
evening there was an " At Home " at the Divinity
School, attended by all the English and American
missionaries in the city.

Oct. 27. — Archdeacon Warren and his daughter
had planned a picnic in the hills for this day ; so
at 8.20 we started for Mino, a lovely valley about
fifteen miles from Osaka. Our party, numbering
twenty-four persons, included all the resident mission-
aries, and others from Kobe and Kumamoto. The
long procession of twenty jinrikshas and two bicycles
looked very amusing as it wound in and out among
the rice fields of the plain of Osaka, and finally
climbed the picturesque mountain road to the valley
of Mino. My father notes in his diary that in a
temple near " a midway tea-house we saw the wor-
shippers going their weary round, holding a tassel in
their hands with one hundred tags, and as they passed
the idol shrine repeating some form and telling off
one tag each round. They rang a bell by way of
calling the attention of the idol, and then took a

m 2

164 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

wooden box in their hand, turned it round, and took
out the wooden spell that first appeared at a minute
hole. This number they named to the priest, who
then told them their fortune. As we came back there
was a large concourse in the temple grounds to
witness a wrestling match, and soon afterwards we
met a festival car, three girls beating drums and
borne on a small platform by ten or twelve young
men."

It was a little early for the brilliant crimson of the
maples, but the valley of Mino was still beautiful with
the varied foliage of summer. We were interested
to find that the Japanese, with their customary love
of nature, were erecting light wooden sheds and tea-
houses in the prettiest positions. From these in a few
days' time, they would duly admire the autumn tints
with the aid of tea and " one whiff," as they often call
their smoking. Our luncheon, brought from Osaka,
was soon spread on the ground not far from a beautiful
waterfall, the long white cloth being prettily decorated
with wild maidenhair and dainty Japanese dinner-
napkins provided for each guest. The large group
of coolies, squatted on the ground at a little distance
from us, looked the picture of quiet comfort, and
the trees and the waterfall made a lovely back-
ground to the scene. After a ramble in the woods
we left Mino at 3.30 p.m., the journey back to
Osaka being marked by a splendid run on the part of

OSAKA. 165

our jinriksha men, though, as we afterwards remem-
bered, the air was very hot and oppressive, and some
of the party prophesied there would soon be a
tremendous storm.

We spent a quiet evening with our respective
hosts, and my father afterwards wrote : "On Tuesday
he — (Archdeacon Warren) — asked me to take their
family prayers, and I had chosen Ps. xci. and said a
few words on our home in God and its security and
blessedness." He little thought when choosing that
Psalm how appropriate its words would be to the
events of the next twelve hours.

160 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER IX.

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE.

Oct. 28 — The working day of Japan begins very
early, and by four or five o'clock the houses are
open and the stoves (hibachi) lighted. Breakfast is
prepared, and the people make up for their early
rising by a noonday siesta. Osaka was therefore
fully awake and astir when the terrible earthquake
of October 28th began, almost to a second, at 6.30
a.m. Perhaps it will be well to give our personal
experiences first, and then add those of the city and
neighbouring country as they were gradually brought
home to us ; for it must be remembered that we were
instantly cut off from telegraphic communication with
the north, and that news from the country came in
but slowly over the shattered roads, so that several
days passed before we could in any way estimate the
terrible extent of the earthquake.

Let us begin with our personal experiences. Arch-
deacon Warren's house, in which my father, Mrs.
Bickersteth, and my brother were staying at the time,
is two storeys high, and built of stone and wood.

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 167

The second storey had been added some years after
the house was first erected, and, probably because
foreign buildings were rather new to the Japanese at
the time, it was not very securely put together, and
therefore suffered more than many others from the
shocks. In Tokyo and the neighbourhood all the
houses are warmed by stoves, and a chimney is almost
unknown on account of the many small shocks which
occur in various months of every year, rendering such
a luxury as an open fireplace and chimney most
undesirable. But in Osaka, where earthquakes are
very uncommon, chimneys were to be seen in all
the foreigners' houses, Archdeacon Warren's among
them, and the Japanese freely used them in their
factories. Very few people living at the time could
even remember such an event as an earthquake.
Only a day or so after our arrival, we had inquired
if any shocks had been recently felt in Osaka, and the
reply was immediately given, " We never have an
earthquake here ! " The events of the 28th were
therefore as great an astonishment to our friends as
to ourselves.

My father and Mrs. Bickersteth were about to get
up that morning when the first rumble of the earth-
quake began. They waited for a moment before doing
anything, as after our experience at Tokyo they
fully expected each oscillation would be the last.
But instead of passing away the shock gained in

168 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

intensity every second ; and my father ran under
the doorway, calling to Mrs. Bickersteth to follow
him, as he knew that, narrow as it was, it would have
afforded some slight shelter had the ceiling fallen in.
She was just coming to him when another shock,
worse than any before, dashed the door against his
hand and foot, bruising them both. But Mrs.
Bickersteth managed to cross the room, though it
trembled, and shuddered, and swerved, in a way that
words are wholly powerless to describe. As she did
so the same shock which dashed the door on my
father burst open the large windows behind her
looking on the road, and with an awful crash threw
down the chimney, which was built against the wall
of their room, hurling it through the ceiling of the
drawing-room, and wrecking that room completely.

She and my father then remained under the door-
way until the house was still. The worst shock
lasted two and a half minutes, and it was scarcely
over when my brother came up to see if they had
been injured, saying he had never been so alarmed
by any earthquake since he came to Japan. His
room was on the ground floor, and he had left it and
had run towards the front door, in order to escape
into the garden. The chimney fell in as he passed
the drawing-room door, and on opening it for a
moment he saw that the room was a wreck open to
the sky. He ran on into the garden, where Arch-

THE GBEAT EARTHQUAKE.

169

deacon Warren had already taken refuge. They felt
the earth reeling under them, a strong proof of the
violence of the shock, as an earthquake which will
vibrate most unpleasantly in a house will not be felt
at all in the open air.

ARCHDEACON' WABBEN'S DRAWIXG-ROOM, OCTOBER 28.

The two Miss AYarrens, who slept together in a room
opposite my father's, rushed out into the garden
directly the earthquake began, but on the opposite
side to that where the Archdeacon was standing

170 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

with my brother. In the strong instinct of self-
preservation aroused by an earthquake it is almost
impossible to decide on the how, when, or where of an
escape. But it was certainly a great mercy that they
did not stay in their room, for just after they left it
their large wardrobe fell down, pushing their bed
before it, and had they been there it would have
injured them severely.

Meantime I was in Miss Tristram's house (the
Bishop Poole's Girls' School). Some alterations
were being made in the dining-room, drawing-room,
and the bedrooms above them. Miss Tristram had
therefore kindly given up her own bedroom to me,
and was sleeping on the other side of the quadrangle.
Miss Bolton's * room was also a long way off, so I was
quite alone, and within reach of nobody, either
Japanese or English, when the earthquake began. I
shall never forget how the intense horror grew upon
me as second by second went past, and each one
seemed worse than the last. The first sound was like
a heavy dray being driven under the windows. I
was in bed reading, and the maid had just brought
in a cup of tea. Like my father, I was not really
alarmed at first, only thinking to myself, " Another
earthquake," expecting it would stop, like those at
Tokyo, before I had time to realize it had begun.
But I found soon enough this was something
* The assistant teacher of Bishop Poole's Girls' School.

THE GllEAT EARTHQUAKE. 171

entirely different. On it went, every window and
wall creaking, swaying, rattling, until in utter terror
I rushed from my room, thinking I would go
downstairs into the quadrangle. But when I reached
the staircase the very steps reeled before me, and I
dared not go down into the narrow hall below. A sort
of horror lest I should be crushed in it turned me
aside to some empty rooms, through one of which I
reached a long verandah running round the house.
Here, to my great relief, I met one of the mis-
sionaries (Miss Bolton), and remained with her until
the earthquake was over. The quadrangle was< full
of the school girls, screaming with terror ; but no
sound reached us from the outside streets until the
earthquake ceased ; and then a sort of prolonged wail
seemed to go up from the city. We returned to our
rooms, and saw many people rushing down the
road ; and a squadron of soldiers passed who had
evidently been sent to keep order. Miss Tristram was
on her knees when the earthquake began ; she was
knocked over, but sustained no injury, and as soon
as possible came to see if I was also unhurt. We
all dressed as quickly as we could, and long before
we had finished Miss Warren kindly came to tell us
that nobody at their house was injured, though the
house itself was a wreck.

We each one felt we had been preserved in
imminent danger, for had the earthquake happened

172 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

the night before, the drawing-room would have been
occupied ; and if the chimney by my father's room had
fallen to the right instead of to the left, he and Mrs.
Bickersteth must inevitably have been crushed. Also,
as regards myself, a wardrobe stood just above my
bed, and it or the chimney might easily have fallen,
as happened in the Warrens' house at the same
moment.

We soon had messages from all the other mis-
sionaries to say they were also quite safe, though no
less than seven chimneys had fallen in the Conces-
sion. The family of Mr. Fyson, the Principal of
the Divinity College, could tell of a very remarkable
escape. Directly the earthquake began Mrs. Fyson
told the nurse to carry the baby into the garden
while she followed with her other children. As
the nurse crossed the courtyard she fell over one of
the stepping-stones, probably through a vibration of
the earthquake, and all the others following close
behind fell upon her ! But by the unwelcome delay
they avoided a heavy chimney which crashed down
in front of them, and the children escaped with a few
bruises. If they had gone on another two yards they
would have been crushed.

About 8.30 a.m. I went to the Archdeacons
house, and found young Mr. Warren already engaged
in photographing the drawing-room, and the others
waiting for breakfast in a little back room, as it was

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 173

feared the dining-room chimney might collapse at
any moment. The house looked exactly as if it had
been bombarded. It was much older and less strongly
built than the Girls' School, and had suffered more
severely from the shock. The walls of the staircase
were marked with great patches where the plaster
had come down, and the fallen furniture, and,
above all, the wrecked drawing-room, looked desolate
indeed.

But the Archdeacon and his daughters made the
very best of everything, truly burying all regret for
personal losses in intense thankfulness that no member
of the Mission nor any of our party had been injured.

News now began to .come in from the city. We
heard first that a large bridge over the river near
the Archdeacon's house had been badly damaged.
It was a slightly arched wooden one, supported on
heavy piles ; but the earth had evidently opened in
the bed of the river beneath, for instead of being
arched it had now partially collapsed in the centre.
A straw rope was stretched across each end, and the
police only allowed one or two people to go over at
a time. Much worse news than the state of this bridge
followed, viz. : that a large foreign-built factory
had fallen in like a pack of cards, killing thirty of its
employes and wounding many others. It was always
kept open at night ; but the night staff had left and
those on duty by day had not all arrived, or the

174 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

loss of life would have been much more serious.
The following account of the disaster was given in
the leading Kobe newspaper (The Hyogo News) of
October 29th :—

" Arriving at Osaka we made for the Naniwa, the
scene of the terrible disaster, which rumour, with its
wonted exaggeration, had magnified into 300 killed.
Fortunately it was only a tenth of that number who
were thus suddenly hurried into eternity, but the
catastrophe was none the less appalling. En route
one could notice that almost every solid house had
sustained more or less damage. Telegraph poles
were out of the perpendicular, walls cracked, chim-
neys serrated, and leaning at peculiar angles. One
big smoke-stack near the Naniwa Mill was frightfully
cracked and disjointed, but still stood, though in a
very precarious position.

" The road to the mill as we neared it was thronged
with spectators coming from, or going to, the scene
of the disaster. Some were relatives, whose cheeks
and eyes betrayed their loss, while all spoke in awed
tones, remarkably contrasting with Japanese wonted
vivacity. The view from the bend in the road where
we first caught sight of the mill was one of desolation.
The roof had disappeared, and jagged portions of the
walls stood tottering. The mill was a three-storeyed
one, with a serrated roof, the span between the walls
being 120 feet, the walls themselves being only a

THE GREAT EABTHQUAKE. 175

brick and a half thick. There were no iron rods
o'oino- through the walls and riveted outside, as there
are in buildings of a similar size in England, the
beams resting merely on small granite supports pro-
truding from the thin wall, instead of being built
into the wall. Consequently, when the big shock
came, and the walls oscillated, the huge weight of the

INTERIOR OF MILL AT OSAKA AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE.

machinery pulled the roof downwards, and, slipping
out of the supports, it fell with a crash, knocking the
northern wall outwards.

" There were some seven hundred people at work
in the mill at the time, but on experiencing the [first]
shock most of them managed to escape. Others were
iust making their exit when the crash came, and it

176 JAPAN AS WE SAW 11.

was on the exit side that the wall fell, burying under
its tons of brick and plaster the numerous unfortunate
victims. It thundered through the second and first
floors on the northern side, carrying away almost the
whole length for a width of about 40 feet. There, piled
up in inextricable confusion, I were carding and spinning
frames, nuts, screws, fragments of cotton, rafters, and
human bodies in one indescribable mass. The cries of
the wounded, the frantic shouting of anxious relatives,
complemented the sickening spectacle, a spectacle
only less mournful than that which was presented a
little later, when relatives, pale-eyed mothers, and
weeping children sought to recognize or identify the
battered corpses laid out in the drying-room, their
ghastly features, some crushed beyond recognition,
looking more sickening in their white shrouds. And
over all was the hush, the awe, the solemnity of
death.

" The surviving employes, confused for a moment by
the fearful fate which they had so narrowly escaped,
and which had overtaken so many of their erstwhile
companions, immediately set about the work of rescue,
and worked with almost superhuman energy. Their
numbers were quickly supplemented by a detachment
of soldiers from the garrison, where evidently the
horror had been witnessed. All day long the work of
clearing away the debris went on, but as late as five
o'clock there were still four people unaccounted for.

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 177

Two or three marvellous escapes are reported. In
one case a child crouched under a machine, and a
rafter falling over her, she was taken out alive, while
not three feet away was the mangled body of her
juvenile companion. Another instance was that of a
very tall young fellow who stood in the window of
the third story. He was shot out amongst the fall-
in ce bricks, and, although falling such a height, and
amongst such a mass of bricks, tiles, and beams, with
the exception of a scratch on the face, and a rent or
two in the trousers, escaped injury. Such an escape
borders on the miraculous. The number of actual
dead may be set down at thirty, but the large
number of serious injuries will probably largely
supplement this total.

" Mr. Eastham, the English engineer, who has been
superintending the erection of the machinery, made
the following statement : — ' I left my house — just at
the side of the mill — at about 6.46, and was walking
just round the building when I felt myself stagger like
a drunken man. I heard a strange rumbling noise,
and, turning to see what it was, I noticed the mil]
beginning to rock. It rocked two or three times,
and then I saw the roof collapse, and the walls give
way at the third story. After the crash there was
a sudden silence — a silence which could be felt.
Part of the wall fell on my cook's quarters, demolished
them, and killed instantaneously both the cook and

N

178 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

his wife. I went around the building, and by the
time I arrived there the employes were already at the
work of rescue, and they worked like demons. I
should have finished my work on Friday next, and
had booked my passage on the P. k 0. Had I been
twenty seconds later leaving the house I must have
been killed.' "

To return to Archdeacon Warren's house. We were
still gathered round the breakfast-table when Mr.
Fyson came in to say that he should fully understand
if my father did not now feel able to address the
Divinity students, as it had been previously planned
he should do at 9. a.m. But my father said that if
the students were ready he would certainly keep to
the plan ; and he gave them two addresses, the first
in their respective class-rooms, on reading, Euclid,
etc., and the second, in a larger room, on "The
Divinity of Our Lord." The students then presented
him with the following address : —

" There is no greater joy in life than meeting with a
friend. Men say that it is a happiness to have a visit
even from one who only comes in from next door so
to speak ; how much more to have the honour of
seeing one who has come from a land so many
thousands of miles away, and so different from our
own in climate and language and customs. Formerly
there was only envy and strife between nation and

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 179

nation, between man and man : but Jesus Christ Our
Lord has broken down the partition wall, and there
is no longer variance between the peoples ; they are
brothers and sisters in the sight of God, the common
Father, all bound by one law of Christ, " Love one
another." We think it is an exemplification of this
truth that we have the happiness of meeting for the
first time with you as friends with a real friend, as
disciples with a dear master, as children with a
loving father. We are very glad that you have come
to see the work of the Church in this country, in
which your son is working as our Bishop, and we
heartily thank God for sending you here. We had
heard long before of your name as Bishop of Exeter,
as the father of our dear Bishop, as one who takes a
very warm interest in the C.M.S., and also of your
fame as an author and poet ; but hitherto we have
had no opportunity of seeing you face to face, but
now our hearts are filled with joy to meet you in this
room and listen to your words.

" We understand you have already spent some
weeks in the country, and, therefore, you have no
doubt seen some of the beauties of nature here, such
as Mount Fuji, Lake Biwa, etc. ; and we hope you
have also noticed the progress made in civilisation,
and more especially the great progress in education
as shown by the statistics of schools. Eeligious
progress has also been very remarkable. Christian

N 2

180 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

missionaries of course meet with difficulties of various
kinds ; but victory has been on their side, and there
is no doubt that it will be so still, God being their
helper. There are more than 80,000 Protestant
Christians ; the whole Bible has been translated, and
many tracts published. Lately Unitarians, Univer-
salis ts, and German Rationalists have appeared and
disturbed the faith of some, and there has been a
falling off in some denominations, but not in the
Church of Japan, thanks to its firm system and
articles of faith.

" To speak of the Divinity School, it has not been
established very long, and of course there has not
yet been any large number of graduates ; but most
of our evangelists have come from this school, and
there are nineteen at work in various districts.

" We have read how in olden time Leonidas the
Spartan King, with three hundred followers, at Ther-
mopylae stopped Xerxes with his millions, and there
fell fiditin£, and that on their monument was in-
scribed the words —

' Go, stranger, and to Laceda^mon tell
That here, obeying her behests, we fell.'

" If any one interested in missionary work inquires
about the missionaries in Japan, we reply that the
missionaries here are devoting themselves to their
work, and are fighting the battle as those who sent
them would wish. Finally, we have heard how that

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 181

when in England you have again and again devoted
special energies to the cause of Missions : we trust
that on your return you will still continue to urge
the importance of pushing forward missionary work,
and especially in this our land of Japan.

"We thank you for your address, and assure you
we shall not forget your words. We are sorry you
are unable to make a longer stay in our country,
and we pray that God's blessing may go with you
on your journey home, and keep you from all evil by
the way."

While my father was at the Divinity School my
brother went out to telegraph inquiries to Tokyo as
to our friends there. He received no answer from
them, and in time we learned that all telegraphic
communication between Osaka and the north had
been cut off, and the railway by which we had
travelled only the previous week had been broken in
a dozen places.

Later in the morning we started in jinrikshas with
Archdeacon Warren to visit the C.M.S. High School
for Boys on the other side of the city, which had been
lately built and opened, chiefly through funds provided
by the Rev. F. E. Wigram. The road did not take us
near the factories, and the only very noticeable mark
of the recent earthquake were the litters we passed
now and then, in which the wounded or dead were
being carried to their homes. The streets of the city

182 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

seemed very quiet, the people showing wonderful
self-control, though the sad and utterly hopeless look
on some of their faces made one realize what it must
be to have sorrow and death so close, and yet no
comfort from religion to help in this world or the
next.

When we arrived at the High School, a large
building on the outskirts of Osaka, we found our hosts,
Mr. and Mrs. Price (the Principal and his wife), and
their guests thinking and talking of little else but the
events of the morning. They had rushed out of doors,
but neither they nor any of the boys had sustained any
injury. After luncheon we went all over the school-
house, and heard the boys, about fifty in number,
translate into English, and work out a problem in
Euclid. We also visited their dining-room and
dormitories, and on returning to the large schoolroom,
my father made a speech to the assembled school,
to which one of the boys returned a very grateful
answer in English. The school, though only lately
opened, is doing a very good missionary work, and
since we were at Osaka some of the pupils have
been baptized. The Principal said it was rather
difficult to secure as many high-class boys as he
would like on account of the powerful attraction
which draws so many of them to the great schools at
Tokyo. However, nobody could have wished to see
a brighter, more intelligent band of pupils than those

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 183

who gathered round us that day. Before we left they
begged that we would be photographed with them.
A group was therefore arranged, the boys and their
masters standing on the verandah, and the two
Bishops and the Archdeacon, and Mrs. Bickers teth
and myself sitting just below in the quadrangle.

We then returned to Osaka in time for English
Evensong at 5 p.m. in the Chapel of the Divinity
School, at which special thanksgivings were offered
for our safety during the earthquake.

In the evening all the members of the Church in
Osaka gave a reception to my father. At first there
was some idea that it would be unsafe to gather so
many persons together with the possibility of another
earthquake. But though the earth had continued
to throb at intervals for some time after the great
shock at 6.30 a.m., as if taking a long breath, it
had now ceased to do this, and all agreed that the
reception might be safely held. We assembled in the
large schoolroom of Bishop Poole's Girls' School at
7.30 p.m., and as I looked at the closely-packed chairs
and forms it must be confessed that the thought just
crossed my mind how very useful the big doors and
French windows of the room would be in case of a
sudden rush into the quadrangle.

But we would not have missed the reception on any
account. After some hymns and prayers the senior
Japanese clergyman gave an address of welcome to

184 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

my father, in which he said how they (the Japanese)
fully understood how he had left his work, and his seven
hundred and fifty clergy in England, for a while in
order to show his sympathy with the Church in Japan,
and how helpful they felt this sympathy to be to them.

The Archdeacon having translated this speech into
English, my father replied, also by interpretation,
and gave a description of all the work he had seen
in Osaka, saying that he felt the various institu-
tions contained within themselves the germs of a far
greater work which would yet be wrought in the city.

The Japanese then explained they wished to let us
hear some of their national music and to show us
some specimens of their floral decorations. They had
also arranged some pictures in coloured sands of their
most famous places, and would ask our acceptance of
some coarse food, this being the invariable way in
Japan of describing a gift of food to another. Some
blind musicians were therefore brought on the plat-
form, who played some very elaborate compositions
on the Koto and Samisen, interspersed with a few
songs. A cup of tea, and a paper bag full of pretty
coloured cakes (exactly the same number for each
guest) were then presented to us and to everybody
else in the room, one of the cakes being stamped
with the Union Jack of England and the Rising
Sun of Japan, evidently as a graceful allusion to
the friendship between the two nations. A Japanese

THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE. 185

tea of this sort is a very short affair, plates, tables, etc.,
being unnecessary, and the guests taking most of the
refreshments home with them. In a few minutes,
therefore, this part of the entertainment was over,
and we were taken round the room to see the
flowers, and the pictures in coloured sands. The
flowers were beautifully arranged in tall vases, and
the delicate shadow-effect so dear to Japanese well
marked on the white screens behind them. But the
trays containing the pictures in coloured sands were
to us quite a novel specimen of Japanese art, and we
never saw any others like them during our tour in
Japan. They had been done by one man during
the afternoon, and were marvels of delicate handi-
work. By a skilful disposition of sands, glittering
stones, and small lumps of clay he had produced on
about five trays a vivid representation of Mount
Fuji ; the Imperial bridge at Nikko ; the seashore at
Kamakura, and other spots of beauty and interest
evidently considered to be the common property of
the nation.

This exhibition concluded the reception, and after
many courteous farewells from the Japanese we all
returned home, and managed to get a good deal of
sleep, in spite of two further slight shocks of earth-
quake during the night. We had lights burning in
our rooms and all the doors unlocked, so as to run
out quickly if necessary.

186 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER X.

THE " HYOGO NEWS " ON THE EARTHQUAKE.

The leading Kobe newspaper, the Hyogo News,
sent off a party of special correspondents to the
worst earthquake districts, Gifu, Ogaki, etc. Alas,
the accounts which they wrote to the newspaper
increased rather than diminished the horrors of what
we had already heard through the people of Osaka.
I give a few extracts from their daily letters
during the week of earthquake, as in spite of very
imperfect English they will bring the horrors of the
earthquake more clearly before my readers than any
later description could do : —

" Ogaki, 31st Oct. — Leaving Tarui, the road curves
past a magnificent sweep of hills, wooded almost to
the summit, with Ibukiyama looming up in the
distance. We had not proceeded far before we dis-
covered that the kuruma-men* alarmed at the earth-
cracks, were taking us direct to Gifu, instead of
to Ogaki. We remonstrated, and for a time they
were obstinate, but finally gave way. A short ride
through a charming coppice brought us on to the
* i.e. jinricksha men.

THE "IIYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 187

Ogakikaido, and directly afterwards we passed a
hamlet, where the first really disastrous effects of the
earthquake were visible. Some ten or a dozen houses
were demolished, in some instances the roofs having
fallen bodily on the unfortunate inmates, while others
were broken into fragments, many of those still stand-
ing having been shored up, and being in a tottering
condition. A small temple had been knocked over,
and lay at an angle of forty-five degrees. The
frightened survivors had constructed tents of tatami
by the roadside, preferring the security of the ground
to the instability of their ricketty tenements. The
next hamlet told a similar tale, and then we came to
a bridge badly cracked at both sides, a long transverse
fissure running through it to some distance on the
solid road beyond. A little farther a group of half a
dozen houses lay prostrate, and beyond them a string
of some seven or eight two-storied cottages on the
left-hand side of the road, wdiile those on the right-
hand side were comparatively uninjured. Large
fields of rice stood waiting the reapers, but many of
the peasants are themselves felled by the Greater
Reaper, and as their erstwhile neighbours are either
busy on the ruins, or too affrighted to resume their
wonted avocations, the fields are deserted. Later, in
the centre of the roadway we came to another deep
fissure, about twenty feet long and six inches wide,
the jinriksha men exhibiting great hesitancy in

188 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

passing it. Parallel with the railway used to be the
village of Shiota, now an indescribable mass of mud,
plaster, shattered tiles, and broken beams, over which
we had to pick our way. Only one or two of the
more solid structures remained, while the temple was
in ruins. A bridge over a small stream brought us
to Ogaki. The bridge was badly wrecked and half-
broken, and the road leading to it deeply fissured.
Ogaki was a long straggling town, consisting mainly
of one winding street. We entered the western
portion, and a scene of unutterable desolation pre-
sented itself. The first part was entirely desolated
and in ruins. Shops of all kinds could be detected
by the debris. Here a porcelain store, there a
cabinet-maker's, next a curio-shop, and again an iron-
monger's. Over all hung a cloud of dust caused by
the working of the labourers in their search for dead
bodies. Now and then we saw them being taken
out, some an unrecognizable battered mass of flesh,
clothes, and dust, others just slightly disfigured."

Later on the same day the same correspondent
wrote from Grifu : — " Ogaki felt the shock worse
than any other town. The houses simply collapsed
wholesale, and the large number of deaths — over a
thousand, according to a record which the official
of the hospital kindly showed me — shows how sudden
was the catastrophe.

" Passing close to the river bank over the burnt

? :■<■■ ■■ r^-i _

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 191

embers, we came into view of the castle and the
school, and saw beyond, in a grove of blistered trees,
the remains of the East Honganji temple. In the
latter at an early hour on the fateful morning three
hundred people had congregated at a special matsuri
service in connection with the harvest. The huge
edifice, which a spectator the day previous had
estimated, from its solidity and massive appearance,
would last a thousand years, had crashed down, and
massacred the whole of the devoted worshippers,
whose corpses were afterwards calcined by the huge
conflagration. The fire originated in a dyeing works,
the half-a-dozen iron crucibles still marking the spot.
" Turning the corner of the castle wall, in which
huge rents appeared, and where the watch-towers in
their dilapidated appearance betrayed signs of their
transit through an ordeal compared with which the
strongest shock of arms it ever had to undergo was
mere play. Farther on was the school, which,
although cracked and shattered, still stood well.
This had been transformed into a hospital, and
here were brought the injured sufferers. It was a
melancholy sight. A sad procession approached the
gates. Women leaning on the necks of their friends,
with faces battered and heads bandaged, just able
to reach the enclosure ; others under the futons in a
hastily-constructed ambulance, pale and ghastly to
look upon. Inside [we heard] the moans of the injured,

192 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

and the sickening spectacle of bandages and blanched
faces. Inside [we also saw] a number of doctors with
their very limited appliances and almost entire
absence of lint, where one woman was just having an
arm amputated at the shoulder, another having an
ugly wound in the leg stitched. The official gave us
the number of deaths at 1,000, and the wounded at
637. The police corps suffered severely, many of
them being killed.

" Leaving the town we next proceeded towards Grifu.
We learnt that the railway and the road had both
been badly served. The road was reported to be
in indescribable confusion, and the railway equally
knocked about. Thinking the railway of more
importance, I selected the line, and walked the whole
distance, some thirteen miles, while one member of
the party went by the road. It was worth the
walking. The towns may display the worst horrors,
but that line gives the most -perfect picture of the
gigantic impetus of the shock anywhere obtainable.
Ogaki Station simply does not exist. The ruins of it
are there, but the contorted rails, twisted and curved,
the collapsed soil, the ruined sheds, the destroyed
water- tank, are all grim evidences of the earth-
quake's awful force."

He then describes the route from Ogaki to Gifu : —

" Leaving the station, we followed the track for

THE "II TOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 193

the first four hundred yards, meeting with nothing to
attract notice. At length we reached a small bridge.
The rails just before nearing it were of a serpentine
order. Some of the sleepers had risen, and others
were depressed. The solid masonry of the structure,
however, was standing uninjured, though the ground
had given way on each side for a distance of about a
couple of feet. From there to Gifu there were at
least a hundred of these bridges, but this one was
a type of all the others. The ground had given way
around all of them, in some cases as much as ten
or twelve feet, but- with only one exception the
masonry remained almost intact, speaking volumes
for the solidity of construction and the excellent
mortar used. As to the rails, we never noticed them
broken in a single spot. Some places they were sup-
porting bridges of many tons, at others were twisted,
curved, and strangely distorted ; but never in a
single instance had they broken, though in one case
the rivets had given out and the joints parted. The
men who laid that permanent way laid every part
with the greatest care. The exception to the little
bridge was curious. One of the walls had moved
bodily around, making half a right-angle with the
line of its former position, while the opposite side had
fallen backwards a couple of feet. The rails here
were a singular sight. They curved on approaching
the bridge like a figure S. Beyond it they went up

o

194 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

and down like magnified plough-ruts, and the earth
beneath in places had subsided some ten or twelve
feet.

" The shock which thus pulled these rails so
tremendously out of their natural position must have
been awful, and we were quite prepared to hear a
peasant tell us that it bounded up a foot or eighteen
inches. Meanwhile, along both sides of the railway
evidences were painfully numerous. Hamlets and
temples, solitary farmhouses and outbuildings, had
shared a common fate. In one little village of a
dozen houses only one made any pretence of standing,
and that was so very shaky that it was dangerous to
go near it. The people were living in the bamboo
groves, and the fields were deserted. From Ogaki to
Nagoya, which we reached next day, travelling in
and out over something like seventy more odd miles,
we only counted thirty-two people at work in the
fields, which had all ripened for the harvest.

"Reaching the Hiraniugawa bridge, a magnificent
iron structure on brick piles, we had to tread care-
fully over the vibrating sleepers. We could not see
the rails all the way looking at the bridge from 300
yards. There were hills and valleys in the erstwhile
straight line, marking the alternations of subsidence
and upheaval. The bridge had stood nobly. It was
an arched structure of iron, and though the rails
were twisted into curves, sleepers splintered, and

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 195

rivets snapped, the bridge itself had no signs of the
tremendous shaking it had undergone. Not so the
supports. They were built of brick, and close down
to the river bed were lateral arches at right-angles
to the flow of the river. These proved the weakest
spots. The first pier stood intact amidst the wreck
of destruction. The second had cracked at the base
of the stem just where the little arch divided the
erection. The ominous red streak in the white
mortar ran all round the column. The next pile was
equally as harshly served, while the one nearest the
opposite bank was worse treated. It had cracked
and sunk, and will require rebuilding

' That embankment, built with so much care on the
Hiraniugawa, has been frightfully damaged. The
precipitation was not so excessive as at the banks
of the Nagaragawa, but the fissures were sufficiently
wide to be appalling. For a distance of thirty yards
the ground had caved in and sunk fourteen or sixteen
feet. One gigantic fissure ran its serpentine course
for at least a hundred yards along what had been the
summit of the bank, but which now lay depressed in
the hollow. That fissure was in places four and five
feet wide. Another big fissure ran transversely,
while the ground was divided into little hillocks.

"Passing clear of the bridge, an unprecedented
view met our gaze. We could see as far as the Na-
garagawa. It was like a toboganning road, with

o 2

196 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

its devious undulations twisted far, far out of the
original order of the line. Between those two bridges
the earth subsided more than we had yet witnessed.
Outside the bridge the sleepers and rails were sus-
pended in mid-air about eighteen or twenty feet,
and the vibration, as we picked our way over them,
was rendered the more unpleasant by a distinct shock
of earthquake, whose approach was heralded by that
low booming sound as of distant thunder, or the
reverberations of big guns miles away. The tremor
made the rails rattle, and though it blanched our
cheeks — for the bravest man must quail before the
awful phenomenon, and my courage is of the faintest
— it did no other harm. But from that time forward
those shocks were frequent, and they were always
preceded by that ominous roar. Passing on, we
crossed a small burn spanned by a three-arched iron
bridge. It had staggered at the impetus of the
shock, the massive stonework pillars had fallen back
and split, and it lay resting on the outer edge of the
support, almost turned completely over, only the rails
preventing it being precipitated into the quivering
river bed.

" That intervening space between the two rivers
was the worst treated of any I had yet seen, and for
the first time we noted a big tree snapped off short,
though later we saw several beyond Gifu. Here the
fissures defy description. Sand and mud covered the

THE "IIYOGO NEWS" ON TEE EARTHQUAKE. 197

paddy fields for long distances. At one point we
wished for a glass of water, for we had come to Tarui
at eleven, and it was now three, and we had not
moistened our lips. Seeing a farmhouse on the left
which had not quite collapsed, we left the railway
line, and struck across a paddy field. We had not
advanced far before we came across a gaping crevice
whose bottom could not be discerned, and following
it, we at length came upon a small submerged tract
of land, and found a mud geyser. It was about three
feet six inches in height, and some six feet in
diameter, its formation being that of a truncated
cone with polished sides ; a cup-like lip stood at the
southern end, and served as an exit for the warm and
brackish water emitted from it. Instinctively one
shuddered. What seething masses of heated elements
might be surging within a few feet of us ? And the
tremors were continuous.

" Just at the entrance to the Nagarawa bridge we
met Professor Milne. He had come along the line to
pursue his scientific investigations, and had just been
fruitlessly trying with a line to sound the depths of
a gigantic fissure. . . .

"... Mounting the suspended railroad, each step
causing distinct vibration, we ascended the shattered
fabric of what once had been the ' strongest ' bridge
in Japan. It was 2,400 feet long, and consisted of
eight spans each of three hundred feet, while at its

198

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

highest point it must be at least 75 feet over the
river-bed. About mid-way it had fallen, a sad wreck,
and an impressive commentary on the helplessness of
mankind in the presence of Nature's fury. Each span
was supported by three stupendous columns of cast-
iron filled with concrete, and some four feet in diameter

NAGARAWA BRIDGE AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE.

at the base. The girders were all wrought iron,
stoutly riveted. Yet it had so rocked as to shiver the
sleepers like matchwood, and snap off stout rivets like
thread. The strong pillars had snapped in the
central span, two into three, and one into two pieces.
The fall or the oscillation had carried the outside
girder over the inside pillar, and it lay inclined on

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 199

the stump, while a huge fragment of the first column
protruded through the opposite side of the metals.

" The effect on the other pillars was variform.
Some were flawless, others cracked : and, in one case,
each of the three columns was broken at the point of
contact with the earth, but had not fallen, while all
over the dry watercourse the ground was riven. One
could not pass the place without a feeling of awe.
Continuing, the sights were similar, and on crossing
the Nakasendo we could note how the made road had
been broken. Once we met a poor fellow whose
dejected mien betokened despair. He had lost father,
mother, wife, and children, and alone had escaped. A
boy of ten trotted along, carrying a couple of pack-
ages. His mother, he said, was dead at Ogaki ; he
was going to Gifu to find if his father still lived.

" From the crossing of the Nakasendo to Gifu station
there was nothing worthy of special note. The station
was riddled as if a battery of cannon had made it a
target. It was still standing, but at such an angle as
to accentuate its dilapidation. Interior partitions,
tables, walls, desks had been crunched up. The roof
let in daylight almost everywhere, and doors had been
wrenched off. Goods sheds had been thrown down,
and consignments in them wrecked. A train stood in
the station on the twisted rails, the only unhurt object
visible. We noted the compartments, we remembered
the unbroken rails along the route, and should have

200 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

hailed it as a welcome resting-place for the night had
not kind fates prevented. Outside the station was a
waste of desolation. Tea-houses fallen, or waiting to
fall, and over the western end a gloomy pall of smoke
from blackened embers."

At Gifu the correspondent paid a visit to Mr.
and Mrs. Chappell, and wiote : — " Gifu was badly
damaged, there being in all some 3,000 houses
destroyed by fire and earthquake, but the loss
of life had been less than at Ogaki. Indeed, it
was easy to discern that Ogaki had felt a heavier
blow. There the town was demolished by the earth-
quake ; at Gifu but for the fire three-fourths of the
houses would still have remained comparatively intact.
All the people were camping out under mats, or any
rough shelter they could find, but many of the deserted
houses looked so little damaged, that, if permitted,
most people would have had little fear of sleeping in
them. The post-office had stood wonderfully well.
It is a foreign-built building, and from the exterior
exhibited few signs of the shock. But internally a
ceiling had collapsed, killing two operators instan-
taneously.

" Just glancing at the town, we made for the house
of the Kev. Mr. Chappell. At one time it must have
been prettily situated, and its surroundings charming.
Now it stands a battered mass amidst the debris of
neighbouring ruin. We found Mr. and Mrs. Chappell

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 201

located in a rude tent made of shoji and mats. There
they had congregated around them, several destitute
Japanese, who shared that little space in common by
day and night. We were total strangers, but were
awarded a most kindly welcome. They; insisted on
our having a cup of tea, and, though we outwardly
remonstrated, we perhaps were inwardly delighted to
receive hospitality under such circumstances. For we
had tramped since eleven without bite or sup, and
it was now 7.30. Our bags, with the provender they
contained, we could not ascertain the whereabouts of,
and to get food in a foodless town was impossible.
But Mr. Chappell's kindness did not cease here. He
listened to our narration of the impossibility of ob-
taining accommodation, and insisted on the Japanese
setting up for us some shoji and tatami, besides
getting some futon so that we might rest for the
night. We did so, and so well was the work per-
formed that ' camping out ' was transformed from a
privation to a pleasure.

" Fatigue made us sleep soundly in spite of the
constant tremors, and maugre the fact that all night
long tom-toms and cymbals were beaten and trumpets
blown to keep -the people on the alert in case of a
further catastrophe. Just after midnight I was awak-
ened by a tremendous booming sound, and felt the
ground heaving heavily. The screams of the people,
and the crash of one or two of the already damaged

202 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

houses, the alarmed cries of the Japanese in Mr.
Chappell's tent, made one feel somewhat daunted.
But the shock was of short duration, and again falling-
asleep, I knew no more until daylight, though I was
informed that some twenty distinct shocks, besides
continuous vibrations, occurred.

" We were up early, a strong earthquake-shock
dispelling slumber at about 5.30. Mr. Chappell
insisted on giving us another cup of tea, and then
accompanied us around the town. Though the
desolation was not quite so complete as at Ogaki, it
was still fearful to contemplate. Out of 5,600 houses
over 2,225 had been burnt, 1,916 semi-demolished,
and 948 in utter ruins. The death-roll totals some
250, and the number badly injured 700. Later
returns, I believe, have considerably increased this
number. We walked down towards the place of con-
flagration. En route we passed the people lying in
the streets, some wTounded and ghastly, moaning
under futons, and now and then a corpse in a litter
wrould be borne by, having just been extricated from
some ruined structure. The temple was knocked
about most unmercifully. The huge granite columns,
sixteen or eighteen feet high at the entrance, on
which rested a rectangular block, were leaning at an
acute angle against the lantern stand, and in immi-
nent danger of being precipitated. A small river
divides Gifu into two parts, and it was the stream

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 205

which prevented the total calcination of the town. It
was littered, as at Ogaki, with masses of debris. The
little footbridge over it was started and terribly shaken.
That tiny streak of water formed the line of division.
On the left were the smouldering cinders of 2,000
homes, on the right, a shattered town, partially
prostrated and partially tottering. Three godowns
had withstood the flames, and although begrimed and
sepia-tinted with soot, they stood alone, cracked
and leaning, but standing still, and making blank
desolation more prominent. Already, however, the
courageous, but homeless, people were at work.
Shocks were continuous, but this did not prevent
them working assiduously at the erection of new
sheds, whose framework was exactly identical with
that of the thousands overthrown."

Of the small towns between Gifu and Nagoya, the
correspondent gave a terrible account. Kasamatsu,
with a population of 4000, and 11,000 houses,
had lost 1000 of its inhabitants, and had not one
house left, 900 being burnt, and the rest utterly
wrecked by the shock. At the village of Ichi-
no-miya 84 persons had been killed and 200
wounded. The survivors reported that columns of
sand and water had shot up four feet into the air,
and there seemed no reason to doubt the statement,
as sand lay an inch thick in the road. At Nagoya,
on the contrary, the destruction was less wide-

206 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

spread than the earliest telegrams had led us to
suppose.

" It was," lie writes, " fortunately not destroyed,
but 1052 houses had been overthrown, and 171
killed, besides 270 injured. The stupendous castle
wall on the western side had stood the shock
nobly, but on the south there was a gigantic
breach some twelve or fifteen yards long, from the
crest of the embrasure to the bed of the moat.
Heavy modern artillery firing at short range could
not have been more effective. A small watch-tower
was dilapidated, and the commandant's quarters were
riddled by falling chimneys. Otherwise, but for the
people camping in the streets through fear, there was
little to indicate that Nagoya had suffered, so far as
we could notice in our ride to the house of the Rev.
and Mrs. J. Cooper Robinson. Both received us most
hospitably. Their house had not suffered much, though
they had camped out one night through fright."

Mr. Cooper Robinson told him; "The American
Nonconformist missionaries at Nagoya were engaged,
at the time of the earthquake, in a prayer meeting.
The building shook so badly that they thought
it was about to fall, and all ran out the nearest
way at the side. Just as they did so two huge
chimneys fell on them, killing a husband and wife
(Japanese) instantaneously and very badly injuring
their child. Two others, a man and a boy, were

THE "IIYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 207

so much hurt that they died directly after. Mr. and
Mrs. Van Dyke were buried under the debris, the
former receiving a severe cut in the head, and Mrs.
Van Dyke having her hands crushed. Mr. Van Dyke
was insensible for a few moments, but on regaining
consciousness he immediately set about assisting the
others. Finding himself weakening he went to his
house, and it was then found that his wound was a
very serious one. Our preaching-house suffered little
or no damage. Dr. Worden's house is almost wrecked,
and Mr. McAlpine's house is so much shaken that it
will have to be rebuilt."

Though the above are only a few extracts from the
daily articles in the newspapers, it will be readily
imagined how much they meant to us, and to all
foreigners in Japan. We had already been preserved
from injury in an unusually severe earthquake, yet
lesser shocks daily reminded us that still worse
experiences might overtake us at any moment. The
sympathy felt by all for the Japanese was very great,
and subscription lists were opened at once in Kobe,
Tokyo, Yokohama, etc., in order to send relief to the
thousands who had been left homeless and destitute.

The various Missions did their utmost to send help.
Miss Tristram and other ladies started into the
country soon after we left Osaka, and one of the
earliest telegrams my brother received from Tokyo
contained a request that he would allow Nurse Grace

208 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

(S. Hilda's Mission) and the Dispensary doctor to
proceed to the scene of the earthquake. He consented
at once, and, accompanied by Miss Thornton, they
started on Nov. 3rd for Nagoya. Nurse Grace after-
wards sent the following account of their doings to
our missionary Guild of S. Paul in England : —

"On Wednesday morning, October 28th, at 6.15,
Miss Thornton and I were sitting in her bedroom,
with our feet almost on the balcony which runs out-
side her room, when we felt a severe shock. At the
time we noticed how very unlike all former shocks it
was. The house seemed to not only sway backwards
and forwards, but to be bumped up at the same time.
The rocking and movement lasted some time — it
is said seven minutes. No damage in and around
Tokyo was done, but the Professor of Seismology
very soon gave notice that, before twenty -four hours
passed, we should hear of some awful damage done,
and that the shock felt in Tokyo was but the end of
the earthquake. He also said that the vibrations of
the earth were so strange and unknown, that all the
instruments were ruined before the shock had ceased,
and that they were now useless. Alas ! his words
were only too true. Before evening telegrams came
in from the large towns in Central Japan saying that
many large buildings had been thrown to the ground ;
in Nagoya the handsome new post-office, only lately
opened, was a complete wreck, many lives being lost,

THE "IIYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 209

as there was no time to escape. At Osaka, some
little way from Nagoya, a large mill had fallen,
burying about 300 men, women, boys, and girls in its
ruins ; but it was not until quite the end of the week
(Friday and Saturday) that full details arrived, and as
one read the papers it really seemed as if it was too
awful to be true. Thousands were killed, thousands
wounded, and these last were all houseless and home-
less. The villages for miles round had not a house
standing. The police and public authorities of the
different parts behaved splendidly ; they telegraphed
that doctors and nurses should be sent down at
once, as the wounded were in a pitiable condition.
Rough buildings were run up in a few hours, and
straw, thick and clean and soft, was put on raised
boards as bedding for the wounded.

" On Tuesday, November 3rd, after consent from the
Bishop, Dr. Ojima, Nurse 0 Rii San and I started from
Tokyo by the 9.50 p.m. train en route for Gifu, which
we were told was one of the worst places. The city
had not only suffered very much from the shock, but
owing to lamps burning at the time of the earth-
quake, when the houses collapsed, the lamps, which are
nearly always suspended from the ceilings, set fire to
the debris, and quite half the city was burnt to ashes
before the fire could be checked. We were told that
Gifu was only one of many places which had suffered
in the same way. Generally, in Japan, it is very

p

210 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

difficult for foreigners to move from the town they
live in under certainly four or five days, as they
may not travel without a passport, and the Govern-
ment does not send one at the very quickest before
four days. I felt that if I had to wait all this time
it would be useless to go. So I went to see the Rev.
J. Imai, and he kindly gave me a letter to the
authorities stating what I wanted, and that, if I was
to be any use as a nurse, I must go within the next
twenty-four hours. Armed with this letter Miss Thorn-
ton and I went to the Government offices, and asked
to see the gentleman to whom the Rev. J. Imai had
addressed the letter. We were shown into a room,
and waited for a little time until some one came.
He was not the one we had expected, but he was
exceedingly polite, attentive, and most anxious to do
all he could for us, and when he fully understood the
urgency of the case he was most anxious to help us.
He kept us waiting for about twenty minutes, and
then returned and told us that, as the earthquake had
been so awful, and there were so many wounded, the
Government was very grateful for my offer, and they
would let me have a passport if I would send for it at
6 o'clock that same evening. Feeling very thankful
we returned to finish packing drugs and bedding, etc.
On Tuesday evening all was ready. A special service
was held in S. Hilda's Chapel asking God's blessing
on the expedition, and at 9.15 p.m. we started for the

THE "HYOQO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 211

station, several from the Mission coming to see us off.
We had with us a good store of drugs, lint, and
cotton wool. The girls in the school had been most
energetic all the day, and had rolled a large number
of bandages and teezed out old linen. The greatest
excitement prevailed, and I could at last hardly find
material enough to keep them going.

" Owing to the railway having suffered so much,
we could not get further than within 45 to 50 miles'
of our destination. At 8.30 a.m. we reached Okazaki,
and here we had to engage kurumas and carts for the
luggage to go by road to Gifu. Midway exactly
between Okazaki and Gifu lies Nagoya, one of Japan's
largest cities. We started in our kurumas at about
9.20 a.m., and the men promised they would have
us there in six hours. At first, for a long way, there
seemed to be no damage whatever done, all the
houses were standing firm and steady ; but what was
remarkable, and drew the attention of nearly all, was
that shrines, temples, stone lanterns, etc., were all, or
nearly all, thrown down, because, as a rule, these
buildings are much better built than any dwelling,
and stand shocks of earthquake well. As we drew
nearer to Nagoya we began to see fissures in the road,
and in some cases bad enough to cause a good deal of
shouting, etc., in getting over them. At 12.30 noon
we stopped for the men to get refreshments, we also
doing the same, and very thankful we were to get

p 2

212 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

out and stretch our cramped bodies, for we had been
travelling by rail all night and were beginning to feel
tired. From this place we very soon began to see
that the earthquake had been severely felt ; large
fissures in the road came much more often, and in two
instances we had to get out and walk, a very pleasant
change in one way, as it changed our cramped posi-
tion. At 2.30 p.m. we reached a village so near to
Nagoya that there was no division of streets or
houses. The streets of this place were completely
covered and blocked with fallen houses, and in some
parts we had difficulty in proceeding, but at last we
reached a cha ya (tea house), where we again changed
kurumas to reach Nagoya. As kurumas were easily
obtained in this place, we arranged for the same men
to take the whole number of us on to Grifu next day,
but, as you will see, this did not happen. At Atsuta
we really saw the first gigantic destruction of the
earthquake. Scarcely a house was left standing, the
whole place was utterly ruined ; the people looked
absolutely ' scared,' and seemed to have nothing in
the world to do but stand looking blue, hungry and
miserable watching the carts, kurumas and people
pass. At first, owing to my being a foreigner, the
children began to run a few steps alongside of my
kuruma, but this they soon dropped. The further
we went the more hopeless and dejected every thing-
looked. The streets were evidently, in the time of

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 213

prosperity, wide and handsome, but now, on either
side, the houses were fallen and in ruins, or else those
left standing were in such jeopardy of coming down,
that, although well propped up and supported, no one
dare live in them. The consequence was that the
centre of the street was taken up entirely with small
impromptu buildings, which formed a strong line down
the very centre, thus making two streets instead of
one. Many of the houses could scarcely be called even
a shelter, because they were made of the shoji (paper
screens) of the fallen houses ; over this was laid some
matting, known in England as India matting.

" All along the road to Nagoya the destruction and
desolation got worse and worse. It was drawing in
towards evening and beginning to rain, but the people
stood about in groups of six, eight and ten, looking
cold, lifeless, and utterly indifferent to what was
going on around them. There was one thing only in
life for them, and that was the ' great earthquake.'
The oldest persons among them could not remember
such awful destruction and death. Although cold
and wet, with every appearance of a bad night, no
one person seemed to have the power to protect the
little shelter they had. A few women here and there
were putting old futons or oil paper on the roofing to
try and keep the children's part dry. The children,
who, especially in Japan, are so jolly, full of life and
spirits, until sometimes when walking along one

214

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

wishes they would not shout so much, were standing
about with awe and fear stamped on their little faces,
in many instances crying quietly to themselves. I
could not help wondering a little why the children

JAPANESE CHILDREN.

should still be feeling the sadness so much, because it
was just about a week since the earthquake, and, as
we all know, children quickly recover from any shock.
But I found out that many of them had lost one if

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 215

not both parents, and were dependent upon friends
only, who themselves had lost relatives, house, and
everything belonging to them. As we drove into the
city of Nagoya, with its wide streets, there was much
more life and activity. The inhabitants had roused
themselves a little from their paralysed state, and
were clearing the streets of rubbish. Carpenters were
busy putting up the larger houses belonging to those
who could afford to rebuild. Every one seemed busy.
The destruction, though great, had not been entire,
and many houses were left standing. These were
wrenched, and in many instances would have fallen if
they had not been propped up with long building-
poles. In nearly all the streets the roofs of the
houses and the slates had been loosened, and the
women were doing the best they could to repair them.
All the men were engaged in more important work.
We reached one of the principal streets where the
large and handsome buildings were utterly destroyed,
and in many instances level to the ground. The tiles
and slates of the roofs were almost ground to powder,
and there was scarcely a whole one to be found. The
buildings which had stood up so firm and strong at
6.15 a.m., showing a rich and prosperous city, at
6.17 a.m. were a mass of crumbling rubbish, with
many human lives buried amongst them.

" It is a fact that gives one a feeling of awe, that of
the Christians sprinkled amongst this number so few

216 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

were killed, so few wounded, and so few suffered in
any way. In many cases theirs were marvellous
instances of escape — houses left standing when all
around were in ruins, so as to cause the heathen
themselves to make comments as to why this should
be so. We are bound to acknowledge that God took
care of His own.

" We passed along from street to street ; some
seemed to be scarcely damaged, others again had
scarcely a house perfect. On our way we saw the new
Post Office, with its handsome stone facings, all but
level with the ground. It consisted of two stories
and a ground floor. In building it the builder had
used only two bricks deep, and then afterwards only a
brick and a half, so that, directly the shock came, the
building snapped off as if it had been cut, just where
the one and a half began. Business of all kinds
seemed to be at a standstill. We then decided to
remain the night, and push on to Gifu the next day.
I sent the doctor with a letter given to me by the
Eev. J. Imai to the Chief of the Police. We were
rather disappointed to hear from him that he thought
there were enough doctors and nurses at Gifu. But I
still felt that there must be villages which had suffered,
and, because of their unimportance, were perhaps re-
ceiving no medical help. I therefore sent on the doctor
to make enquiries, while I waited for Miss Thornton
and the manservant belonging to S. Hilda's Hospital

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 217

to join me. She came that day, and we started with
the luggage for Gifu. Miss Thornton has sent an
account of our journey, so that I need not write more
about this except to say that desolation and ruin met
us at every turn. I was getting very anxious to reach
Gifu early, so that, if we found work, we could push
on that same day. As we left Nagoya everything,
if possible, seemed getting worse and worse. The
villages seemed to have scarce any people living in
them, and we passed numbers evidently migrating
to the towns, where probably they had relatives, and
where food was being given by the Government. We
reached Gifu about three o'clock and went straight to
the Eev. J. Chappell, who we found living in a small
shanty hastily put up in his garden, for, though his
house was not down, it was in such a precarious state
that it might fall any moment. Mr. Chappell gave us
the address of our doctor's hotel, and we went there.
He was sitting waiting for us, and told us that, if not
too tired, we ought to go and report ourselves at the
Ken-Cho. So we set out, and were conducted to a
large room. Our cards were taken and presented to a
man sitting at a table piled up with papers ; who
directly he had read them got up and gave us a most
hearty greeting, thanking us, in the Japanese custom,
from the people, who as yet did not even know us,
or that we were going to their village. After ar-
rangements were made, and we had signed the agree-

218 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

merit to stay a fortnight, if necessary, we were passed
on to another official of higher grade, and again
thanked. This man asked what luggage we had,
and very kindly undertook to send it on for us, the
Government paying all expenses. We returned to the
hotel and made ourselves comfortable for the night.

" I forgot to say that during the night I stayed at
Nagoya the shocks of earthquake were constant, as
often as every ten minutes or quarter of an hour — in
fact, the ground was never still. In the night the
shocks were sharper, and at three in the morning
a violent thunderstorm came on at the same time, and
the loud rumbling noise of the earth which preceded
each shock made one feel how terribly God was visiting
those parts. One could not but feel that it must be
to teach the heathen that above all He is God.

" To return to Gifu — all that night the shocks were
frequent, two being so violent as to make us jump out
of bed. At 6.30 a.m. next day we all started. It
was a lovely morning, with just enough frost in the
air to make us glad to wrap up. For some way the
road was good, but we had only gone about three or
four miles when we saw houses and buildings level
with the ground. One large place we passed through,
four ri from Gifu, had been burnt down. The houses
had most of them fallen, and the lamps which were
burning at the time set fire to the falling timber,
and in a marvellously short time the whole place

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 221

was one mass of smoking ashes. From here to the
village where we were bound the road was all but
impassable ; we walked a good deal, and the kuruma
men had to carry the kurumas on their backs over
the great fissures in the road. Most of the way
the road is made as an embankment, and is a fine
piece of work.

" We reached Takasu at 1.15, and were received by
the Chief Officer of Police in his quarters, and served
with Japanese tea by one of the policemen. The officer
told us that he had secured three rooms in the Japanese
hotel which was next door, and that, owing to the way
the hotel was built, it had stood the shock well. The
walls were wrenched, doorways twisted ; still, the
uprights were firm and safe, and we need have no
fears as to its safety. We went in, made all arrange-
ments, and then were asked to go and see the
temporary building which was being erected for a
hospital and dispensary. As we walked through the
village, though more than half the houses were down,
and the remainder so injured as to make it absolutely
necessary in most cases to take them down, the people
did not seem nearly so stunned, but were busily
trying to put the streets in order. The children were
running about cheery and bright, and, as I found
afterwards, ready for any joke they could make or
find. The building consisted of coarse straw matting
and bamboo poles. On entering, on each side was a

222 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

large space — one side for men, and one for women.
The first day we began work at the hotel, because the
building was not finished, and the news that a Tokyo
doctor and foreign nurse had come to help the
wounded had travelled fast, and patients came before
we had unpacked all our medicines and surgical
dressings. It was Sunday morning, and we had in-
tended to read Matins, but the patients were so eager
and so impatient that they walked upstairs straight
into the doctor's room, so we felt it would indeed be
cruel to keep them longer. So many came that at last
we had to get leave from the landlord to allow us to
use a room downstairs, because the patients could not
in many instances get upstairs. In they came — here
a big strong man carrying an old woman on his back ;
there another was brought on a shutter. One in a large
basket ; another in a tub ; another on a stretcher ; all
sorts and kinds of conveyance were used. If it had
not been for the pained and suffering faces of the
people the scene would have been most amusing. On
the first day we saw forty-five patients. Looking at
the bare numbers this does not seem many, but the
reader must bear in mind that all, with about two or
three exceptions, were surgical patients. No doctor
had seen them, and they had only put on either resin
plaster (a favourite remedy for wounds in Japan), or a
piece of lanshi, a kind of soft paper. Many of the
wounds were severe head cuts, varying from one inch

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 223

to three and a half inches long, and from a very
slight depth to over half-an-inch deep. These took
a long time to dress, and the hair had to be cut away
all round the injured part for about an inch. By four
o'clock we had been at work since 9 a.m. ; it was
getting dark, and no new patients came, so we closed
for the day, though a few sauntered in during the
evening. Next day the hospital was ready, but
though several came we had none to stay as in-
patients. We worked hard and saw altogether fifty-
five patients. The next day the new patients were
decidedly fewer, but with those who had to have
dressings done daily and the new ones, we saw sixty.
" On Wednesday we heard that an English mis-
sionary lady from Osaka was nursing the wounded
at a village called Imao, about two and a half miles
from us. I went over the next day to see, and found
Miss Tristram, who had stayed here with us in the
spring. We were very pleased to meet, and as she
could make arrangements to leave she came back with
me to Takasu. On my return I found plenty of
patients waiting for their medicines. It was decided
during the evening that I should go to Imao and help
her. She is not a nurse, and had come to help the
wounded at Imao because they had no one. The small
hospital that she had was full of very severe cases, and
no proper doctor being there, we felt strongly that
the doctor could easily manage the patients at Takasu,

224 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

and I ought to go and help Miss Tristram. Miss
Thornton was obliged to return to Tokyo, and so, on
Friday morning, we separated ; she, with 0 Rii San,
the Japanese nurse, to Tokyo, and I at 2.30 to Imao.
I got there at about three, and set to work at once
and saw about twenty patients.

" At five o'clock the Prince Kumatsu, sent by the
Emperor to visit the scene of the earthquake, was
expected to come to Imao. Six o'clock came and
he had not arrived. We and the doctors waited,
and getting tired at last, we decided to go to our
lodgings. But as is generally the case, just as the
important people of the village had left, a runner
came to say the Prince was coming, so messengers
were sent off, candles bought, and in a remarkably
short time things looked very different. We were all
placed in a row, like good children, to await the
Prince. He came heralded by many lanterns, which
were borne by people in the greatest state of excite-
ment. As he came in, we were severally introduced to
him. It must have been the peculiarity of my dress
and Miss Tristram's that attracted his attention, as he
asked particularly who we were, and where we came
from ; he then thanked us and passed on. I was
much struck with his kind and courtly manner. To
every patient he gave a kind and gentle word, and
after seeing all, one of the gentlemen-in-waiting made
a speech to them and gave a message from the

THE "HYOGO NEWS" ON THE EARTHQUAKE. 225

Emperor. After he was gone we went down to our
shanty and went to bed. It would be scarcely
possible to really describe this building, which, like
the hospitals, was built of straw mats and bamboo.
The floor was covered with tatami, and round the
walls was a rope on which to hang our clothes, etc.
One side was open entirely, and if we had not had
plenty of warm blankets and bedding it would have
been very cold. On a small charcoal fire our evening
meal was cooked, consisting of broiled fish, boiled
eggs, coffee, and very stale bread, which I found the
next morning was green with age and mildew. As it
was dark neither Miss Tristram nor I found this out,
though afterwards we confessed to one another we
thought it tasted oddly

"The next morning I went over to Takasu, and
found that on Friday afternoon eighteen patients had
come into the hospital, and that the whole number
had gone up rapidly. The Prince had been, and
been very troubled to find no proper nurse, and had
sent to ask me to return. I never received the
message, but decided at once to remain. All Saturday
and Sunday I worked away ; on Sunday morning
single-handed dressing twenty-eight wounds, and
making up twenty-three bottles of medicine. Fifty-
one patients came between 7.30 a.m. and 12.45
noon, but, as often happens, the number suddenly
dropped. Nearly all under treatment got well, and

226 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

I felt the others would do perfectly if they had
the means for dressing the wounds given to them.
The Government had sent two women and a man to
nurse the patients and a servant to cook the food,
and, to my surprise, in the evening two women from
Osaka also arrived. I therefore decided to return to
Tokyo next day with my servant, who had been
invaluable all the time.

" But before closing this, I should like to tell
you of one or two of the worst cases. When I
returned from Imao, the people in Takasu hospital
were quite excited, and at first I was at a loss to
understand it. But when I went to do one of the
patient's wounds, she told me with the tears rolling
down her face — ' Oh ! we thought you had gone and
left us ; they all told us you were not coming back,
and we were so disappointed, because we came in
that you and your nurse might see to us/ I soon
quieted them, and told them I would stay as long as
I could. As I stooped over the in-patients, attending
to them, the out-patients stroked my back as they
passed and thanked me. I heard them say, ' Eh !
but she is kind to us poor folk.' Poor things, it was
so new an occurrence to be treated with tenderness
that they could not understand it. We had a present
of several pounds of meat, and having more already
than we could eat we thought that we would make
some soup and have all the poor old people and

THE "EYOGO NEWS" ON TEE EARTEQUAKE. 227

patients invited to dinner. Miss Thornton was most
clever, and by borrowing pans, buying vegetables, she
made such beautiful soup that we all wanted to
be among the guests. When we left Tokyo twenty-
six yen was given to us to give away as we thought
right. We consulted the Chief Officer of Police, and
he told us to whom to give it. Each person had one
yen (dollar) fifty sen, and also a few dresses made of old
things, but warm and clean. One old man of seventy-
three, whose head had a severe cut, and who came the
first day, had lost all belonging to him as well as his
house. The cut was sewn up, but it did not do well.
I asked him if he had food to eat, because by the
look of the wound I was sure that he must be nearly
starved. A man who had helped us from the first
spoke up then, and said, ' No, he was sure he hadn't,
because he was well known to him, and was very
poor.' Whereupon the old man said very proudly,
' I have potatoes/ and every one laughed. We had
some difficulty in making him see that potatoes
once a day, and only that, would not give him
strength enough for his wound to heal. So he
was persuaded to come as in-patient, and in a
few days he was nearly well. To this old man we
gave a warm overdress, padded, and his delight was
touching to see. He picked it up and laughed to
himself, cuddling it up, and then, turning to the
policeman who brought him for it, he said, ' Isn't it

Q 2

228 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

beautiful ? ' Then all at once he laid it down with
such a sad face, pushed it towards me, and said to
the others, ' It is too beautiful for me ; the lady has
made a mistake, thank you.' We left him a few
minutes to watch him. It was pitiable to see him.
He talked to it, and patted it, and then got up to go
away- — I was so struck to see the quiet, patient,
unmurmuring manner which these poor heathen
showed ; but we called him back, and at last made
him understand that it was for him. The police-
man told him that he must wear it, and not sell it,
and, to prevent his doing this, made him promise
to go and show it every week at the police office
for the next two years !

" One boy, whose thigh was hurt, and put up in
plaster of Paris, drew me some pictures. He was
only eight, but they show great talent, and one of a
warrior is well done.

" It would be impossible to write about all who
were interesting. Some, of course, were not so nice ;
but, on the whole, I never had more thankful, satis-
fied, grateful patients anywhere than these 168 poor,
ignorant, heathen country people."

The efforts of the Missions did not end here. After
we left Japan my brother opened an Orphanage at
S. Hilda's Mission for the children who had been left
orphans by the earthquake, and a similar Orphanage
was established by the congregation of S. Andrew's

TEE "HYOGO NEWS" ON TEE EABTEQUAKE. 229

Church at Tokyo, lie also founded a small home at
Nagoya for aged persons who had lost all friends and
means of support. All three schemes were grate-
fully welcomed by the Japanese as a proof of the
foreigners' sympathy in their great trouble.

JINRIKSHA KUNNEK.

230 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTEK XL

NARA, OR AN ANCIENT JAPANESE CAPITAL.

Oct 29. — On the morning of the 29th, the weather
being beautiful, my brother said he would take us
to Nara, a famous and very picturesque city, at one
time the capital of Japan, and only twenty-five miles'
journey from Osaka. The railway line to it had not
been injured by the earthquake ; but about half-way,
just before the train ought to have entered a tunnel,
we were all turned out, and had to go by jinrikshas
for a mile or so. We then went on in another train
which was waiting at the other end of the tunnel.
The reason for this was curious. The line had been
made by Japanese engineers ; but their calculations
had proved incorrect, and the tunnels they had made
in each side of the hill had failed to meet in its
centre. They were rapidly mending the defect, and
a luggage train had already been through ; but the
mistake afforded a good instance of the desire of the
Japanese to manage everything themselves, even
before they are in a fit state to do without foreign
tuition.

At Nara station we were met by a Japanese cate-

NABA, OB AN ANCIENT JAPANESE CAPITAL. 231

chist, who remained with us all day, and explained the
various sights of the temples and city. Under his
guidance we took jinrikshas, and, passing quickly
through the town, entered a long avenue of fir trees,
which led up to the principal temples. But we
paused for a few minutes en route in order to visit
some sacred fish, who were jostling each other in a
motley group on the surface of a small lake. They
fought hard for some pink cakes which we threw to
them, diving the very second they caught one, in
order to devour it in privacy.

Our progress along the avenue was slow, for we
stopped every minute or two to feed the sacred stags.
There are numbers of them in the park surrounding
the temples, and they ran up to our jinrikshas
begging hard for the biscuits, which we had bought
for them from women who had little stalls on each
side of the avenue. They seemed to be one of the
most noted features of the place, and a large number
of shops in the town sold models of them in wood.

We then passed through some torii — Japanese
arches marking the ground as sacred — the paths
beneath which were lined with hundreds of heavy
stone lanterns. But among these lanterns we at
once noticed the effect of the recent earthquake, large
numbers being overthrown, and many hopelessly
broken.

The temples are approached by one or more long

232 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

flights of steps. Their deep-pitched roofs are covered
with grey tiling, the walls being coloured brilliant
scarlet. As at Nikko, the. effect of the colouring
was singularly beautiful, as we came almost suddenly
upon them among the dark trees.

The first at which we stopped was purely Shinto,
and we had an opportunity of watching some curious
religious dances which some girls were executing in
an adjoining shed. They were dressed in white and
scarlet, and had their faces plastered with thick
white powder. Their movements were very slow
and graceful. In one hand they held a fan, and in
the other a stick covered with small bells, which they
waved to the motion of the dance, while two priests
accompanied them on some musical instrument.
This was the only time we saw, or rather recognised, a
Shinto priest, as they do not shave their heads like
the Buddhists, nor wear a special dress, except when
officiating in the temples.

Our next pause was at a Buddhist temple, built on
the side of the hill, and its roof decorated with hun-
dreds of metal lanterns, looking like a fringe of small
bells. The views of the wooded plain and of Nara
from its platform were very fine, and we could see
among the trees the roof of the hall containing the
largest image of Buddha in Japan, and at some
distance from where we stood. In order to visit
this Buddha we returned to our jinrikshas, and were

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W ,:.^VS A \

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« -■•-^^Sm.

NARA, OR AN ANCIENT JAPANESE CAPITAL. 235

taken rapidly to the limit of the park. On the way
we passed a famous bell, thirteen feet in height and
over nine feet in diameter, which hung in a strong
wooden campanile, or belfry. This bell was probably
struck every hour, like those we saw at Nikko and
Kyoto ; but we were not fortunate enough to hear
it while in Nara. The tone of such bells is most
melodious, and reminded us of that produced by
" Peter," the largest bell in the chime of Exeter
Cathedral.

The Buddha was also well worth a visit. The
actual image is fifty-seven feet high, and seated on
an enormous lotus flower. It is made of small plates
of bronze, and the comparatively modern head is
surrounded by a halo of gilded wood. It is much
more effective than the one we saw in Kyoto, the
figure being complete, but both evidently lack the
artistic beauty of the famous one at Kamakura, not
far from Tokyo. We had not sufficient time to visit
that Buddha while at Tokyo, but even from photo-
graphs could tell that its face possessed a dignity and
characteristic self-concentration of expression which
was wholly lacking in those at Kyoto and Nara.

On our way to the station we stopped for a few
minutes at the house of Mr. N., a leading member of
the Japanese Church Synod, and an important man
in the city. He had stood for Parliament at the last
election ; but my brother told us be had not been

236 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

returned because in some local question he had felt
it his duty to do what was right, rather than what
was pleasant and popular.

He gave us a warm welcome, and, after taking off
our shoes, we were ushered into his "foreign room."
It had a gay carpet on the floor, and an orthodox
round table in the middle, with some chairs pushed
closely to it. But his politeness overcame all the
stiffness of the surroundings. He sent immediately
for some tea in tiny cups with metal saucers and
a plate of sweets, and did everything in his power
to make our short visit a pleasant one. The Mission
congregation in Nara, of which he is a member, is
in charge of an American clergyman, and numbers
100 Christians out of a population of 44,000.

We returned to Osaka before dark, and were dis-
tressed to find serious accounts had reached the
Mission of the effects of the earthquake in other
districts. We now realized that, severe as it had
been at Osaka, we were only on the outer circle of a
much more terrible shock which had desolated the
beautiful plain of Nagoya. A large part of Nagoya,
Gifu, Ogaki, etc., had been thrown down, and the
shock had caused fires, which Lad destroyed the
greater part even of the ruins.

All accounts agreed that the lesser shocks went on
almost continuously in these cities, and we felt most
anxious for the missionaries and Japanese friends

NASA, OR AN ANCIENT JAPANESE CAPITAL. 237

whom we had left so recently. During the evening a
deputation from the Christians in Osaka came to beg'
for our help in a fund which they were collecting for
the sufferers (all non-Christians) from the factory
disaster. They afterwards sent relief to their fellow-
converts at Nagoya, and we were much struck by
their prompt charity in both cases.

At midnight we were wakened by a severe shock of
earthquake. We rushed out of bed, but before we
could get out of the house it had ceased. It made
us feel the possibility of a repetition of Wednesday
was by no means over. Yet the only course open to>
us was evidently to go on simply and steadily with
our usual life, knowing that God could guard us in
another earthquake as He had done in the previous
one. My father and brother and Archdeacon Warren
therefore decided not to give up the expedition to
Fukuyama, at which place my father had promised
to lay the stone of the new Mission Church. They
left Mrs. Bickersteth and me at Osaka early on the
morning of Friday the 30th, with the promise of
meeting us at Kobe the next day, where we were
all to be the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Foss, of the
S.P.G-. Mission.

238 JAPAN A8 WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER XII.

FUKUYAMA.

Oct. 30. — Fukuyama, formerly the capital city of an
old daimyo, is situated on the Inland Sea of Japan,
only a hundred and forty miles from Osaka. There
is a line of railway between them, but the train only
going at seventeen miles an hour, our party did not
arrive until 6 p.m., though they had left Osaka at
8.30 a.m.

The Mission work in Fukuyama is the result of a
visit paid some years ago by two lady missionaries,
Miss Hamilton and Miss Julius. Under the care of a
Japanese catechist, the congregation had grown year
by year, and now numbered a hundred and three
persons — " full," as my father wrote, " of earnest life."
They were very eager to have a resident clergyman
to direct them, and, in proof of this anxiety, had
collected sufficient funds for a Mission Church. It
was the stone of this Church that my father was to
lay the next morning, and by a curious coincidence,
the clergyman about to take charge of Fukuyama
was the Rev. C. T. Swann (C.M.S.), an old " Cam-

FUKUYAMA. 239

bridge blue," whom my father had ordained both
deacon and priest at Exeter. Mr. Swann was hoping
shortly to settle in the city, with his wife and baby,
and, though they would be many hours' journey from
other English people, their work promised to be full
of interest. The Christians received the two Bishops
and the Archdeacon at 8 p.m. in a large room in the
grounds of the old Castle of Fukuyama, and my
father writes : " What would the daimyos have said
to see their castle thus used by the disciples of the
Cross ? " The reception included, as usual, an address
of welcome, which was followed by some prayers
and hymns, and the never-failing tea and sweetmeats.
My father replied in a speech which Archdeacon
Warren interpreted to the Japanese, and my brother
having also addressed them, the party separated
for the night. The English visitors slept in the
native inn ; but the night's rest must have been rather
short, as my father notes in his diary that they were
wakened by cock-crowing at 4.15, 5.15, and 6 a.m.

Oct. 31. — The laying of the stone of the new
Church was at 8 a.m. The Christians took the
keenest interest in every detail, and a large number
of non-Christians were also present, watching every-
thing that went on. The service began with an
address from my father on the words, " In all places
where I record My name I will come unto thee,
and I will bless thee " (Exodus xx. 23), after which

240

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

he laid the stone, using for the purpose a silver
trowel which the English clergy had presented to
him. It had " Fukuyama " and the date stamped
upon it, and afterwards made an interesting addi-

JAPANESE BROOM MERCHANT

tion to his collection of trowels at Exeter. The
Japanese also gave him two specimens of the blue
cotton towels which the Church Committee had pre-
sented to each workman employed in the building.

FUKUYAMA. 241

These towels had a white cross stamped in the centre,
and the name of the Church, " Epiphany," in Japanese
letters. A towel would have seemed a curious gift to
an English workman, but nothing could have been
more appropriate to a Japanese. Among the lower
classes a towel is put to every sort of use besides the
ordinary one of the bath-room. On one occasion it
will appear coiled round their heads as a protection
from the sun, and on another it will be laid for the
same purpose across the bamboo roof of a palanquin.
It may serve as an apron to a jinriksha, or to tie up a
weak place in its springs ; but nobody will be sepa-
rated for long from a towel, and its loss would
evidently be as serious to the Japanese as that of
their pipe or their tea-pot.

Immediately after the laying of the stone, a photo-
graph was taken of the scene, but the dazzling sun-
shine unfortunately made it rather an unflattering
likeness of both English and Japanese. The two
Bishops and the Archdeacon then paid a visit to the
Mission School, which had been opened in a rough
wooden building in the town. They left Fukuyama
soon afterwards by train, arriving at Kobe at 6 p.m.,
where Mrs. Bickersteth and I were already settled at
" The Firs," Mr. and Mrs. Foss's pretty house on the
hill above the city.

She and I had spent Friday and part of Saturday
quietly at Osaka. The occasional slight shocks of

R

242 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

earthquake still continued, and we seemed to dread
them more each day ; but the missionaries wisely re-
commenced all the usual work in the schools, etc.,
and did their best to calm the anxiety of their people.
Reports, however, of further and yet more alarming
earthquakes were current in the city. On Friday
one of them said that at midday there would be
a terrible shock. Midday came, and only a very
slight one occurred. The report then promptly
changed to " Government had telegraphed to put it
off until midnight ! " On Saturday morning a post-
card arrived from Mrs. Chappell, the missionary's
wife at Gifu, who had greeted us ten days before at
the station. When the earthquake began her husband
was away on his work in the country, and she was
alone in the house with her servants. She was wakened
by the paper screen collapsing on one side, and the
wall crashing in on the other. In terror she rushed
out on the verandah, and was pulled through part
of its wall by her servants, escaping in her night-
dress into the garden. We heard some of these
details afterwards ; but her post-card was written
soon after the shock. It said she was still in the roacl,
where she had been living all day, terrified and alone,
and that she wanted to know whether somebody
from Osaka would not come to help her. Some of
the Mission workers went at once, and found Mr.
Chappell had by that time returned from Okasaki,

F UK U YAM A. 243

the place at which he had been preaching. He had
had a narrow escape of his life, as the house in which
he was sleeping had collapsed, and he had descended
from the upper storey clinging only to the shoji, or
paper screens.

Mrs. Bickers teth and I left Osaka at 11.30 on the
31st. A great many of the missionaries kindly
came to see us off from the station, and an hour's
railway journey brought us to Kobe, a large treaty
port on the Inland Sea, with nearly as many English
residents as Yokohama. It had not suffered like
Osaka from the earthquake, but some of the shops
were badly damaged, and a good many chimneys had
come down, including all those of our host, Mr. Foss.
He and his wife and their little son of six years old
had rushed into the garden, and had fortunately
escaped any injury from the debris of the falling
chimneys. Like our friends at Osaka, they certainly
allowed no anxieties of their own to diminish their
unbounded hospitality to us.

R 2

244 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER XIII.

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA.

Kobe, where we spent the next five days, is one of
the most attractive places that we visited in Japan.
The mountains behind it often reminded us of those
in the Riviera, and the long stretch of blue sea, with
the island of Awaji in the distance, might well have
been the Mediterranean from Cannes or Mentone.
The city is divided into two parts — Kobe proper,
where the foreign community live, and Hyogo, the
old Japanese town and capital of the province of
Hyogo. There is a small English Church, with a
resident chaplain, the Rev. G. Weston ; and the
Mission station — a very important one — is in charge
of the Rev. H. J. Foss (S.P.G.).

He and his wife had built their house on a hill
above Kobe, and to our great interest we found that
they had modelled it after one called " GroesfFordd,"
at Penmaenmawr, which we had occupied some years
ago during a summer holiday and in which they
had spent a day with us. It was a great pleasure to
have all our party under the same roof again after

KOBE AND TEE INLAND SEA. 245

the anxiety and separation of the past week, and the
following Sunday (All Saints' Day) was one of the
most interesting that we spent in Japan. The only
drawback was Mrs. Bickersteth's inability to leave
the house all day.

At 9 a.m. we went to a service in the pretty Japanese
Church (S. Michael's), which has unfortunately been
since destroyed by fire. It was filled that morning
with a congregation of converts ; and after a sermon
from my brother, and the confirmation of three per-
sons, a Celebration of Holy Communion followed, at
which forty communicated, only eight of whom were
English.

In the afternoon my brother addressed a large
number of children in the English Church, and at
five o'clock nearly every English person in Kobe
(about 200 at least) met there for a Thanksgiving-
Service for our preservation in the recent earthquake.
My father preached, and immediately after his sermon
special collects were offered, and the Te Deum was
sung as an act of thanksgiving. It was a service we
shall never forget. Every person in that crowded
Church had been saved from imminent death, and the
slight shock of earthquake that occurred just as the
congregation were assembling reminded us that the
danger might not yet be over. The offertory amounted
to £20, and was devoted to the Earthquake Relief
Fund.

246 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

We spent the evening quietly at " The Firs," and
met some of our host's usual Sunday evening guests —
young clerks in merchants' offices, and members of
the Mission staff, who all greatly value a Sunday
evening with their English clergyman.

Nov. 2. — We had no idea until the next morning
that the news of the earthquake had been fully
telegraphed to London, and had caused the deepest
anxiety to our relations and friends at home, who
by the dates of our proposed tour could reckon we
were almost certainly in the affected districts. We
had talked of telegraphing to them during the previous
week ; but until Monday my father did not feel
justified in doing so, because of the slight shocks that
continued to occur every few hours.

Early Monday morning, however, after a perfectly
quiet night, he decided to telegraph home " All safe."
He sent off the message soon after breakfast ; but we
soon discovered it had crossed one of inquiry which
had been sent off from Exeter on Saturday night, but
which did not reach Kobe until Monday afternoon.

Our family told us afterwards that they had ex-
pected an answer all through that Sunday, and when
none came, their anxiety became very great, and they
could scarcely summon courage to open the telegram
when it arrived, and was brought up from the lodge
by our faithful head gardener very early Monday
morning. Their anxiety was of course at once relieved,

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA. 247

and they returned thanks in the Cathedral for our
preservation on the following Sunday. My brother
also received a telegram from the Church Missionary
Society with inquiries for the members of their Mission,
and we heard of other private telegrams sent to
English people in Japan, which convinced us that
very alarming accounts had reached England.

AVe spent the day quietly in Kobe, my father
and brother lunching with Mr. Weston, to meet the
members of the English Church choir, and climbing
with him afterwards one of the mountains imme-
diately behind the city. Mrs. Foss kindly accom-
panied me in a shopping expedition to the Moto
Machi, a long and well-known street in Kobe, full
of china, lacquer, bamboo, and paper shops. The
various articles made in Japan from paper are
truly astonishing ; they vary from windows to
pocket-handkerchiefs ; and a ball of coloured paper
string which I bought that day in the Moto Machi
is so like good strong English twine that our friends
at home have to take on faith the fact that it is
genuinely made out of paper.

Nov. 3. — This was the Mikado's birthday, and there
was a public holiday in honour of the event. The
banks and nearly all the shops in Kobe were closed,
the ships in harbour were decorated with bunting, and
a fine Japanese man-of-war fired a royal salute during
the course of the morning. The people also wore

248 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

their gayest costumes, and among the crowds in the
streets I was interested to meet a party of men who
had their hair dressed after the old style. That is,
it was closely shaved in front, and a small lock from
the back being brought forward, was tied on the
crown of the head. The object in old days was to
leave them perfectly free to fight, but in the present
day, even in the country, the practice seems almost
extinct. Women, indeed, keep strictly to the old
elaborate arrangement of their hair, though it is
usually done only once or twice a week, or on
grand occasions, the high wooden pillows on which
they rest their necks at night keeping it in order
meanwhile. Economy is the reason given for this, a
full Japanese coiffure being impossible without the
aid of a hair-dresser. A man will explain his wife's
unexpected absence from a party in this way : " My
wife's hair was dressed, but she was prevented from
coming at the last moment." Men have their hair
cut short, in European fashion, and pig-tails are of
course unknown in Japan, though this latter fact
has evidently not penetrated into all the publishing
world of England. It is only necessary to glance
at the Christmas picture-books for children issued in
1892, and a selection may be found of most unnatural
little Japanese, the original of whose lengthy pig-tails
might be hunted for in vain within the limits of the
Mikado's Empire !

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA. 249

During the morning: Mrs. Foss took me to see the
Mission School for Girls, in charge of Miss Birkenhead
(S.P.G.). It had only recently been opened, but the
house was in a good position, and they hoped it
would attract many pupils. In the afternoon we
went to see the annual Kobe regatta. The races
were capital, especially one between the Kobe, Hong
Kong, and Yokohama "four oars," which Kobe won
triumphantly through the help of Mr. Swann, the
young C.M.S. missionary, and former "Cambridge
blue," who was shortly leaving to take charge of
Fukuyama. He told us it would certainly be his
last race, as he would have no time or opportunity
for a boat-race in his distant post at Fukuyama.

In the evening about one hundred of the Japanese
Christians of our Church in Kobe gave an interesting
reception to my father. The order of proceedings
was much the same as at Tokyo and Osaka. After
some hymns and prayers (one of the hymns being my
father's " Peace, perfect peace," translated into
Japanese), a pupil of Mr. Foss's large Mission School
for Boys read an address of welcome in English, which
was afterwards repeated in Japanese for the benefit of
the audience. My father replied, with Mr. Foss as his
interpreter, and it was amusing to watch the delight
of the Japanese when their clergyman had to trans-
late some praise of his own work. Tea and cakes
were finally brought in, and we returned home very

250 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

much pleased with the courtesy and warmth of feeling
shown by the Japanese Christians of Kobe.

Nov. 4. — The earthquake shocks had now become
very slight, and we could generally sleep all night
without being waked by that unmistakable quiver
which we had learned to dread so much. The
Japanese had prophesied that on this day, being a
week after the 28th, there would be another terrible
shock, but none came, though we heard that at Gifu,
Ogaki, etc., the slight shocks were still almost con-
tinuous, and the terrified people had no spirit to
resume their ordinary life.

We spent the day in an expedition to a mountain
village called Arima. It was a lovely morning, and
we caught the 7.30 a.m. train to Sumiyoshi, the next
station to Kobe. The road between it and Arima
was too rough for jinrikshas, and we therefore
engaged kagos, i.e. Japanese palanquins, at Sumiyoshi,
made rather longer than usual for foreigners, but
at the best somewhat of a squeeze. A long fir
pole was slung through the roof of each, and it
was then carried by two men, with a third to relieve
them every few minutes. For the next four hours
the views were most beautiful ; the road leading
for several miles through a mountain pass, in which
Mr. Foss called our attention to several rice mills, and
an incense mill which had been built near the stream
that rushed down the valley. Then at last, when

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA. 251

two-thirds of the way to Arima had been accomplished,
we reached the summit of Rokko San, 3200 feet above
the sea, and had a glorious view of the surrounding-
country, and the long ranges of distant mountains.
The descent for three miles to Arima was one of the
loveliest bits of scenery and colouring that we saw
during our tour, for at last the gold and brown tints
of a Japanese autumn had begun to appear in the
woods ; the maples stood out among the other trees as
if on fire, so vivid was the scarlet of their foliage, and
close beside us the path was fringed with ferns and
large Alpine gentians and Michaelmas daisies. We
enjoyed it all to the full, and it was not until we
were in Arima itself, and in Mr. Foss's pretty summer
cottage, that rain began to fall and lasted for several
hours.

It was too wet for us to explore the village ; but
the people sent up specimens of their fine straw and
bamboo work, and we had an amusing time, sitting
in the verandah after lunch and trying to drive good
bargains with the merchants. It is a great mistake
to defer any shopping in Japan, with the hope that
you will find the same things in another place, and
thus avoid the trouble of carrying your purchases.
As a fact, there seems very little trade between the
various centres of industry in Japan ; the tortoise-
shell work of Kobe and Nagasaki, the inlaid woods of
Miyanoshita, and the straw work of Arima, seem

252 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

confined to the places of production, and the goods, if
exported at all, are supplied direct from them to the
foreign market. For instance, I never came across a
good specimen of Miyanoshita inlaid-wood work from
the time that I was in the village itself, until I
discovered one last summer at the Army and Navy
Stores in London though at treble its original cost.

The first part of our return journey to Sumiyoshi
was very wet, but near the summit of Rokko San we
met a man, who had been sent by the thoughtful
owner of the kagos with oiled paper curtains to hang
over us. They kept us splendidly dry, and the rain
stopped some time before we reached the station.
The kago men did not seem at all tired — in fact, Mrs.
Bickersteth's bearers were still so fresh after the seven
hours' journey, that they took to running with her
for the last mile or two. It is all very well for
jinriksha men to run, and over a smooth road the
motion is very pleasant, but in kagos the result, on
the contrary, is swinging and jolting of a horrible
description ! My brother was too far behind to
notice their" sudden move, and though Mrs. Bicker-
steth and her coolies passed me and my more sober-
minded retinue, the astonishment of seeing her rushed
along in this fashion took away all my small stock of
Japanese. I fear my evident amusement only added
to the speed of her journey, and the men continued
their gallop until they arrived at the station-door.

KOBE AND TEE INLAND SEA. 253

There my brother made them humbly apologise,
and they came just like children to do so, putting
their hands together and begging mutely for pardon.

Nov. 5. — During the morning my father went all
over Mr. Foss's Mission School for Boys, in which,
two nights before, the Christian congregation had
given us such a warm welcome. Mr. Foss devotes
much time and labour to the school, and has the
assistance of a capital English schoolmaster and his
wife (Mr. and Mrs. Hughes, S.P.G.). They have now
eighty-five pupils, and my father notes in his diary :
" A most excellent school, all the fruit of Mr. Foss's
labours."

The weather was lovely, but we were obliged to
devote all the morning to packing, as we were to
leave Kobe that night for Kiushiu, the great southern
island of Japan, where many of our journeys would be
taken in jinrikshas, and heavy luggage would be out of
the question. We therefore selected a few necessaries
that could be packed in "hold-alls" and hand-bags,
and sent all the rest by sea to meet us at Nagasaki.

In the afternoon we finished our English mail, and
also chose some interesting photographs of the earth-
quake, which an enterprising Japanese had taken at
Gifu and Ogaki only a day or two after the worst
shock on the 28th.

The Kobe Maru, the fine steamer of the Nippon
Yusen Kwaisha Line, which was to take us down the

254 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Inland Sea to Kiushiu, did not leave Kobe until late
at night, so we were able to stay at " The Firs " until
after dinner, when our kind hosts insisted on coming
to see us on board. It was a brilliant night, and the
harbour was crowded with ships, each carrying a red
or green light, and making quite a fairy-like scene as
the boatman paddled us across with his single oar to
the steamer. Our friends left us by 11 p.m., and we
sailed at 4 o'clock the next morning, as I discovered
from the vibration of the screw below, which woke
me from a vivid dream that we were escaping from
another earthquake !

Nov. 6. — The Kobe Maru was as well appointed
as a P. and O., and we spent nearly all the day on
deck, admiring the beautiful scenery of the Inland
Sea. The crew, with the exception of a few Chinese
stewards, were Japanese ; but the captain (Captain
Haswell) was an Englishman, and he courteously
invited us to sit in the wheel-house, as the wind was
rather strong, and ordered " tiffin " half an hour
earlier, so that we might see the narrowest straits
through which we passed between 12.30 and 2.30 p.m.
Other inmates of the wheel-house were a tame deer,
and two delightful dogs, who seemed his constant
companions.

We steamed past hundreds of curious, cone-shaped
islands, due to volcanic action, some of which were very
bare, and others covered with vegetation, and cultivated

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA. 255

to the very summit with rice fields. The constant
change of our course revealed every few minutes new
intersections of these islands and of the mountain
ranges of the mainland, and we could often see three
or four lines of distance. Sometimes we were shut in
on every side, until it seemed impossible that our

JAPANESE FISHING BOAT.

ship should ever find its way out. Then the captain
would point to an island just ahead, and say our course
lay behind it, and sure enough in a few minutes we
were " round the corner," so to speak, and in another
lovely reach of sea. Meanwhile, our great ocean
steamer made its way through hundreds of craft of all
kinds, from the tiny sampan, in which the boatman

256 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

was holding up a straw mat to catch the wind, to the
big junk, labouring along with its great square sail
and heavy load of rice, or the little coasting
steamer, creeping slowly from town to town along
the thickly-populated shores of the Inland Sea.

In one of the largest islands, called Awaji, there
is a population of 180,000 people, and my father
notes in his diary : "It sorely wants a resident
European missionary and his wife, for its social
influence is great, and the Japanese say, ' Awaji is
the head, Shikoku the breast, and Kiushiu the legs,'
because so many ruling men have been born in
Awaji." A missionary station had been started there
by Mr. Foss of Kobe, and a native catechist was now
at work ; but everything would spring into redoubled
life and energy could a powerful English Mission
supplement his efforts.

We stayed on deck until it was too dark to see any
longer, and retired to our cabins early, as the Kobe
Maru was due in Shimonoseki Straits (between
Kiushiu and the Main Island) at 11 p.m., and Captain
Haswell had promised to send us ashore in a little
steam-launch at half-past four the next morning. He
fulfilled his promise to the letter, and we duly em-
barked on the launch by starlight. But our cruise in
her lasted longer than either the captain or we had
expected, for the sailors insisted on taking us to the
opposite coast of the Straits, in order to have our

KOBE AND THE INLAND SEA. 257

luggage passed by the Custom-house officer, before
they would laud us at Moji, the northern port of
Kiushiu. Remonstrances were of no avail, and we
steamed across, luckily over perfectly smooth waters,
to the opposite side, where we routed up the Customs
officer, who was too sleepy to do his work thoroughly,
and let us off with the inspection of two tiffin baskets
and one black bag ! Then at last we were allowed to
land at Moji, and as the train did not start until 6.30
we were in plenty of time for it, and had half an
hour to wait at the station.

The Kiushiu railway had been opened very recently,
but the trains were as comfortable as those in the
Northern Island, and my brother said the line had
already proved an immense convenience to him, as it
took him in a few hours to places which had formerly
involved two days' hard travelling in jinrikshas. The
country near Moji is very pretty, and we immediately
noticed several differences between it and the Main
Island ; for instance, wax-trees, which produce the
vegetable wax from which most of the candles in
Japan are made, were very abundant ; the race of
peasants also looked more powerfully built, yet they
did not seem to do much of the heavy farm- work them-
selves, but used horses, which had been a rare sight,
indeed, in other parts of Japan. There seemed no
chance of breakfast before we reached our destination,
Fukuoka, at 9 a.m., and we began to get very hungry,

s

258 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

as several hours had passed since we left the Kobe
Maru. But at a station about half-way, my brother
spied a boy on the platform who was selling white
wooden boxes of hot rice and curry. A box, including
a neat pair of chopsticks, cost twopence, and we soon
invested in four, from which we made a capital break-
fast. About 9.30 we arrived at Fukuoka, a large
town on the northern coast of Kiushiu, and formerly
the residence of the Princes of Chikuzen. Mr. Hind,
the C.M.S. missionary in charge of the Fukuoka
Mission, met us at the station, and took us at once
in jinrikshas to his pretty Japanese house, where his
young wife was waiting to welcome us.

Their house was indeed delightfully Japanese,
with paper-screen walls, windows, and doors, the
drawing-room alone having glass windows on two
sides. The rooms were not large, and much caution
was therefore necessary during our toilet, or at meals,
in order to avoid tumbling through a paper wall
or door. However, we were duly careful, and I
think all escaped without making even a small
hole in one. The Japanese fit beautifully into such
houses ; but it must be acknowledged that the
general effect of English people in them is rather
like that of an overwhelmingly large visitor in the
doll's house of one's nursery days.

C 259 )

CHAPTER XIV.

FUKUOKA AND OYAMADA.

Nov. 8. — Another lovely Sunday, and full of interest
through the glimpses it gave us of the missionary
work at Fukuoka. The Christian congregation num-
bered a hundred persons, who had already built for
themselves a large Mission Church, which they had
named "Alpha and Omega." It would hold 300
people, and had been consecrated by my brother
during the previous May. We went down to this
Church at 9 a.m., for Japanese Morning Prayer,
during which two babies were baptized. My brother
preached the sermon, which was followed by an
English Celebration of Holy Communion. Every-
thing was very well ordered in the Church, and we
noticed the polite bows with which the church-
warden gave out the notices and the people ac-
knowledged them, a Japanese custom which is also
observed by my brother and all the clergy in Japan
before and after their sermons. During the after-
noon about twenty of the leading Christians came
to call on us. Mr. Hind had said we should be ready

s 2

260 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

at half-past two, but most of them arrived about
one o'clock, and waited quietly in an outer room,
contentedly smoking (both men and women ! ) until
the appointed time. They then came into the
drawing-room, and sat on the floor in such close
rows that I think a large English hearthrug would
have comfortably accommodated all twenty. There
were such striking faces among them, and an
earnest restful expression that is too often lacking
in an ordinary Japanese. First in dignity sat the
banker, carefully arrayed in foreign dress ! Next
came an owner of coal mines and his pretty wife and
baby, all in strict Japanese attire, from their kimonos
to the tabi on their feet. Close beside them sat
a blind newspaper seller — such a cheerful-faced man,
who bowed his head on the floor whenever he specially
approved any remark made by my father or brother.
Besides these there were various women, the elder
married ones with their teeth painted black, but the
younger ones quite free from this ugly custom. My
father gave them an address, interpreted by my
brother, and then after tea and innumerable bows
they left us, with the usual graceful Japanese fare-
well, " Samara" — "If it must be so" — that is, "If
we must part."

During the evening my father and brother went
down again to the Mission Church for Japanese
Evensong, and then visited the preaching-house, an

FUKUOKA AND OYAMADA. 2()1

admirably-situated room open to the street, where
numbers of non-Christians cluster round the door and
listen to the addresses given by the missionaries.
These preaching-houses seem an almost indispens-
able addition to the buildings of any well- worked
mission station. They are free from the interrup-
tions of street preaching, and yet attract passers-
by, and allow them to come and go in a way that
would be impossible in a Mission Church.

Nov. 9.— We left Fukuoka about 9.30 the following
morning, en route for Kumamoto, one of the most
important cities in Kiushiu. Our kind host, Mr.
Hind, came with us as far as Oyamada, a Christian
village about three or four hours' journey from
Fukuoka, which my brother was specially anxious we
should see while in Japan, as it afforded one of the
most remarkable evidences of recent missionary work.

It will be remembered that while in Kyoto we
visited a large new Buddhist temple, which was being
built in the place of one destroyed by fire on the
same spot. Begging appeals on behalf of this temple
were sent all over Japan, though most of the contri-
butions which they elicited came from two only out
of the eighty-four provinces of the Empire. Among
other places an appeal reached Oyamada, the village
that we intended to visit this day. The inhabitants
sent a gift at once towards the new temple ; but
when a second appeal followed soon afterwards,

262 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

they evidently considered such a proceeding to be
thoroughly grasping and unjust, and in their in-
dignation against the Buddhist priests sent to
Fukuoka for the English missionary to come and
teach them about Christianity. The Rev. C. B.
Hutchinson was then in charge of the mission station
at Fukuoka, and he went over to Oyamada as soon
as possible. This was in 1888 ; and by 1891, through
his instructions and those of a valuable Japanese
catechist, 150 out of the 180 inhabitants had been
baptized, their heathen temple had been pulled down,
and a Christian church built in its place. In fact,
the whole village was practically Christian.

The railway took us as far as a large city called
Kurume, and after leaving our luggage at the
station we started in jinrikshas for a ten -mile ride
over the plains and up the hills to Oyamada. It
was an interesting ride, as the country was thickly
populated, and we were much struck by the carefully-
cultivated farms and rice-fields, and the beautiful
crimson-leaved wax trees. About 1 p.m. we climbed
the last hill and entered the village. The hillside
was thickly wooded with pine and maple trees, and
the village street, a mere mountain path, was over-
grown with moss and lovely ferns, among which
we noticed the climbing fern, of which there are
two specimens in Japan. The first building that
greeted our eyes was the Church, quite a large

FUKUOKA AND 0 YAM AD A.

263

buildino-, with the catechist's house close beside it.
Here we received a most dignified and courteous
welcome from the catechist, Mr. Nakamura, and his
wife (Mary San), a former pupil of Mrs. Groodall's

SILK-SPINNING.

school at Nagasaki. She could speak English beauti-
fully, and yet had kept all her pretty Japanese
manners.

They were surrounded by their children, Grace,
Mary, and Edith — two small girls and a baby — who

264 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

were all dressed in the gayest of scarlet costumes.
After removing our shoes we went with them into the
house and up the ladder-like stairs to the reception-
room, which boasted a table and chairs, but was other-
wise quite Japanese. Here we had our lunch, and
meanwhile could see and hear a man vigorously
beating a big gong, evidently a relic of the former
heathen temple, in order to announce our arrival to
the village. The people soon came thronging round
the house and Church, and by three o'clock probably
every Christian in Oyamada had arrived in order to
see us, and take part in a service which had been
announced for that hour. It was a singularly in-
teresting service, and made us full of hope for the
future of Christianity in Japan. The Church itself
had been almost entirely built by the people, some
of them who could not give money having brought
wood, or helped in the actual building. Three
years ago every Japanese present, except Mr. and
Mrs. Nakamura, had been heathen ; now they joined
with quiet earnestness and reverence in our Litany
and some hymns, and then listened to a sermon from
my brother He spoke to them from the steps of the
Holy Table, and then confirmed one of their number,
a fine young man, probably one of the farm labourers.
It all seemed so natural, and yet so strange, when we
remembered the great heathen city Kurume, only
ten miles off, and the many heathen viHages through

FUKUOEA AND OYAMADA. 265

which we had passed ; and yet here was this one
village of Oyamada won to our Faith by very simple
quiet means, and in so short a time. It was indeed
a valuable example of what could be done by out-
station work — that is, work started by an English
Mission having its centre in a large city. Such a
Mission if well manned is able to send out missionaries
from time to time on evangelistic tours in the neigh-
bouring villages, who, after winning a certain number
of converts, can entrust them to the care of a native
catechist until the place is ready for a Japanese
clergyman in charge. Could the number of these
strong missionary centres in Japan be multiplied,
it can scarcely be doubted that the result would be
most remarkable.

But what was the actual state of the case as brought
before us during our visit to the country in 1891 ?
In Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe, Fukuoka, and other places
we found hopeful central missions, but all in charge
of them were obliged to sorrowfully acknowledge that
they had not means or missionaries to overtake their
own work, and that if out-station work had been
attempted, it had generally been at the sacrifice of
still more pressing work in the centre, or during the
holidays of the missionaries.

The general opinion seemed to be that when both
methods cannot be adopted in one place it is much
better to develop work in the centre rather than have

266 JAPAN AS WE SA W IT.

a weak extended line of out- stations. But why
cannot both be adopted in every great centre of popu-
lation in Japan ? Why should not each great centre
have a strong body of married missionaries such as
we saw at Osaka, and community-missions like
S. Andrew's and S. Hilda's Missions at Tokyo, besides
educational establishments to train the children in
Christianity, and Divinity Schools for the catechists
and clergy ? The answer is too easily given.

The Church in England and America has not
realised the laborious nature of the work in Japan,
and the consequent self-sacrifice and effort that will
be necessary if it is to be successfully undertaken.
We have sent out a few missionaries, and have given
them but limited support. Then, because through
their zeal, and the extraordinary crisis in religious
matters in Japan, remarkable results have been
obtained, we say quietly, " Delightful people the
Japanese ; so open to Christianity ! We shall see
them a Christian nation in our lifetime. " But in
our enthusiasm over the people, and our appreciation
of the converts, we wholly forget the millions yet
untouched, and who never will be touched until we
rouse ourselves to the actual facts of the case. The
Church of Rome meanwhile has noted the oppor-
tunity, and is sending out Bishops, Sisters of Mercy,
first-rate educationalists to Japan, in order to try
and repeat the work of Xavier. The American non-

FUKUOKA AND 0 YAM AD A. 267

Episcopalians have grudged neither men nor money
in order to found missionary institutions in the most
important centres of Japan. Let us emulate their
devotion and avoid their errors. Let us send out
those who could only be spared with real difficulty
from home, and who would thus be fit pioneers
and founders of the national Church of this great
people. We often asked when in Japan about works
of art in the ancient temples and palaces, " Who
carved this design, and painted that screen or
panel ? " and were met with the answer, " Nobody
knows ; the artist's name is forgotten ; in the old
days they would give their life to one object, and be
content to die unknown." Such words may accu-
rately describe what the building-up of the Church
of such a nation should be ; not only the life-long
dedication of the noblest artists, and of their most
perfect work towards the end in view, but the reward
of the artists that their work should contribute to
the glory of the building as a whole, whether their
names were handed down to posterity or not.

But to return to our visit to Oyamada. After
service about fifty-two of the Christians came into the
catechist's house in order to partake of a feast of
tea and cakes, which my brother had provided for
them. The screens had been taken down, so the
lower floor of the house was turned into one large
room. The guests sat close to the walls, and a

26S JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

table only a few inches high was put before each,
covered with pale pink, green, and brown cakes,
and sweets of truly " high art" shades, while the pur-
veyor of the feast and his assistants walked about
and constantly replenished the cups of tea.

We sat on the floor also, and my father gave an
address, in which he told them of his warm interest
in Oyamada, and of his hopes that the remaining
heathen in the village would soon be brought to
the Faith. They listened earnestly to his words,
and seemed very sorry when we had to leave them,
soon after 5 o'clock, in order to catch the train
at Kurume for Kumamoto. They all came out of
the catechist's house and stood on the steps of his
garden to see us start, bowing their farewells until
a turn in the road hid them from our sight.

Our jinriksha men ran well, and it did not seem
long before we saw the lights of Kurume. It is a
large city, and as we rushed through its streets we
could look in at the brightly lighted shops and houses,
and I noticed that in each there was the household
shrine, bearing witness to the widespread heathenism
of the city. I inquired afterwards more particularly
about these household shrines (Kamidana), and found
that they would, as a rule, have three divisions, each
containing a representation in thin oil-paper (or 0
Fuda) of some deity. The most popular of these
deities are ( 1 ) : Ten Shq Dai Jinzu (the superior

FUKUOKA AND 0 YAM ADA. 2(39

deity, or Sun-Goddess) ; (2) : The God of the district
to whom the family is specially devoted (this deity is
often the deified Emperor Ojin) ; (3): The gods of
fortune. The household shrine being devoted to-
Shinto worship, ought, strictly speaking, to contain
no idols — only these 0 Fuda, or cards of thin oil-
paper. But, as in Shinto temples, Buddhist deities in
the form of idols are constantly introduced into them,,
and in an inner part of the house another shrine,
wholly devoted to Buddhist deities, will often he
found.

Kamidana, or the " Divine shelf," are very popu-
lar with shop-keepers, who, as we saw at Kurume
that night, will put them in a prominent position,
partly as a defence against possible evil, and partly
because by its lighted candles a shrine will im-
prove the look of the shop.

Besides the 0 Fuda of the deities, they will, as a rule,
contain offerings to them of sake (spirits) ; leaves of
an evergreen tree peculiarly sacred to Shinto, called
Sakaki, and rice bread, which in Shinto worship
represents human flesh, and is thus the Shinto
sacrifice.

Buddhist shrines are quite distinct from Kami-
dana, and are known as Butsudan. They are
large, and highly gilded, and may thus be easily
distinguished from those devoted to Shinto worship,
which are made of unpainted white wood. They

270 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

will contain images of Amida-Buddha, and also of
Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Amida-Buddha
is apparently regarded by the Japanese as " the
Saviour," of whom Shaka Muni, or Gautama Buddha,
is the Incarnation, the two being worshipped as
distinct persons.

It was quite dark when we entered the streets of
Kurume, and our men stopped to light their paper
lanterns, as they are liable to be fined if they run
a jinriksha unlighted after dark. My brother made
them stop for a few minutes at a confectioner's
.shop, where we could buy some sponge-cakes for
our journey. Japanese sponge-cake, or Caster a, is
very good, and, as its name denotes, is a survival
of Spanish influence in Japan during the 16th
century, when Castilians introduced it into the
country, and, owing to the absence of an L in the
Japanese alphabet, Castile was soon corrupted to
u Castera." It is made in large fiat wedges, and we
were much amused when my brother came out of
the shop with a supply about half a yard long for
our journey.

At the station we found a police inspector in
•charge, who, after helping us to find our luggage,
ushered us into the waiting-room. He was a very
courteous man, evidently a Samurai, one of the
warrior class j many of whom lost nearly everything
at the Kevolution, and were thankful to enter the

FUKUOKA AND 0 YAM AD A. 271

ranks of the army or police force. But we were much
amused, and very grateful, when, soon after he had
settled us in the waiting-room, he reappeared, accom-
panied by a maid who carried a dainty tray of tea
and cakes, which he offered us with many bows, after
delicately tasting the tea to make sure that it was
good. We felt that we were in Japan, indeed, for an
English police inspector might conceivably have
managed the tea, but never the bows.

We left Kurume about 8 p.m., and arrived at
Kumamoto three hours later. Mr. Brandram, the
C.M.S. missionary, met us at the station, and my
father and brother and Mrs. Bickersteth stayed with
him and Mrs. Brandram while in Kumamoto. I mean-
while was the guest of Miss Eiddell and Miss Nott,
two ladies who had been recently sent out by the
Church Missionary Society to help in the work of the
Kumamoto Mission. All our friends lived in Japanese
houses ; but they had furnished them in foreign
ashion, and the rooms looked very home-like that
night after our long day's journey from Fukuoka.

272 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

CHAPTER XV.

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN.

Nov. 10. — Kumamoto is a large city, with 53,000
inhabitants, and one of the finest castles of old Japan.
This castle used to boast sixteen towers, and was built
in the 16th century by a famous general called Kato
Kyomasa, whose work we had already seen in the
keep at Nagoya. But only one of the towers and
the ancient ramparts and gateway are now left, the
rest of the castle being destroyed in the Satsuma
rebellion against the present Government in 1877.
The first morning after we arrived at Kumamoto the
weather was too wet to allow of any sight-seeing, but
in the afternoon it cleared up, and we soon made
our way to the castle, and had a very interesting time
there. We climbed to the top of the old tower, from
which we had an extensive view of the surrounding
country, and then walked round the ramparts, which
in some places bore unmistakable marks of the great
earthquake in 1889, and in others were spattered
with lead from bullets fired in the siege of 1877,
Kato Kyomasa was not only a great general, but a

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 273

powerful ruler, and the results of his work may be
seen in many places in and near Kumamoto. The
roads in the country immediately surrounding the
city were sunk deep in the rice-fields, to enable him
to send secret parties of soldiers from his castle,
and surprise any approaching enemy. In the neigh-
bouring hills he had erected some noble viaducts,
which had turned a barren country into a peculiarly
fertile one. But he was evidently utterly un-
scrupulous in the means that he employed to carry
out his various schemes, and his cruelty knew no
bounds. One legend about him relates that, when
building the castle, he employed a giant to carry
up and place in position some of its enormous
stones, and a mill-stone still lies in the courtyard
which we were told this giant had carried with ease,
putting his neck through a hole in the middle of it.
But when the castle was just finished, the giant made
some unfortunate remark as to who should hereafter
live in it. The jealousy of his lord was roused, and
he ordered the man to go down a deep well,
and then had great stones thrown into it to crush
him. He was, therefore, scarcely the kind of man
that one would expect the Buddhists to deify after
his death, yet this is what had happened, and his
temple on the outskirts of Kumamoto is one of the
most popular in South Japan.

Mr. Brandram knew the commandant of the castle,

T

274 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

so we called at the officers' quarters. The command-
ant was away from home, but the officer in charge
received us with great courtesy, and by his orders we
were ushered into the council room, and small cups
of coffee, a novel and comparatively rare luxury in
Japan, were served to us.

That evening we all went down to the Mission
Church, and my father preached to a large and
attentive congregation of the converts. The Mission
had at first made extremely rapid progress, and the
people had built their own church, partly by help
from outside, but mostly by their own exertions.
Women had given the proceeds of their knitting, and
a farmer a share in the profits of his poultry-yard,
and a hotel-keeper a percentage on his till. But
the inhabitants of the island of Kiushiu, of which
Kumamoto is one of the largest cities, are a peculiarly
proud, independent race. Anybody who has studied
recent Japanese politics will know that, from the days
of the Satsuma rebellion in 1877 to the latest election
riots, the inhabitants of Kiushiu have been noted for
a strong conservatism that has resented the enlight-
ened policy of the present Government, and has clung,
with an almost dogged devotion, to the ways of old
Japan. The work of a foreign Mission among such
a people is one of peculiar delicacy, and we were
scarcely surprised to hear that the first fervour of the
people of Kumamoto had been followed by an out-

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN.

275

break of independence as regards Church matters,
which had resulted in a serious check to the growth
of the congregation. But the check promises to be a
passing one, and all hope that, with wise manage-
ment, the marked Japanese characteristic of a due

A MERCHANT IX THE OLD DAYS OF JAPAN.

respect for law and order will prevail at Kumamoto
as in other parts of Japan.

Certainly nothing appeared to mar the warmth of
their reception to us, and after a bright service in the
Church, we all adjourned to the schoolroom, where

T 2

276 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

my father responded to a speech of welcome made by
one of the leading members of the congregation. A
very grand feast followed, not only tea, cakes, and
sweets for every guest, but three bright yellow
persimmons as well, a persimmon being a Japanese
fruit the size of an apple, but tasting like a plum.
We all sat on the floor, as usual, and at every polite
remark the heads of the audience bent forward, and
reminded me vividly of the effect produced by
the wind as it passes over a field of wheat. We
knew it was strict Japanese etiquette to take away
any food not consumed at the time, and a piece of
paper was provided for the purpose. But our portions
that night were very large and sticky, and my hostess,
Miss Riddell, thought that her cook might safely
bring home what we had left in one parcel. But
she had evidently reckoned without our hosts in
the matter. Just as I had settled myself in my
jinriksha, a delightfully polite Japanese came, with
many bows, and put my rejected sweets in my lap.
They were of all sizes and shapes, and I had an
exciting ride home trying to prevent one sticky pos-
session after another from making its escape into the
road.

Nov. 11. — My father and brother and Mr. Brand-
ram left Kumamoto early the next morning for
an expedition to the celebrated volcano, Aso San.
It was considered rather difficult for ladies, so

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 277

Mrs. Bickersteth and I stayed in Kumamoto until
their return.

The weather was perfection, and they started at
8 a.m. in three jinrikshas. Their road for nearly
twenty miles led through beautiful scenery ; and,
though heavy at first with the recent rain, it im-
proved every hour with the glorious sunshine. At
last it became too rough for jinrikshas, and they rode
on ponies up a romantic mountain pass, which after
two hours brought them to a Japanese inn at a
village called Taratama. It was a very comfortable
inn, with hot (natural) sulphur baths, the strong fumes
of which pervaded the air. Mr. Brandram prepared
a capital supper, and the party were very glad to
cluster round the charcoal hibachi (brazier), as, though
a brilliant moonlight night, the air at that elevation
was very cold. At 7 a.m. the next morning they
started for the volcano. Two ponies had been ordered
for riding and to carry their bags ; but when the
pair of animals arrived, one proved to be a small
cow. She was quite tame, but very slow ; so they
loaded her with the luggage, and told the owner to
meet them at the other side of the mountain, which
he did that afternoon with perfect faithfulness. My
father writes in his diary : "It was really a most
glorious sight, the pass clothed with maples and other
trees, in all their autumn colours, and the sun touching
point after point. Sometimes I would ride, sometimes

278 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

not ; but E. and Mr. Brandram walked all the way.
We reached the summit about 10 o'clock. It was
very solemnising, the continuous roar, like that of
the ocean, as the sulphur and smoke and steam were
poured forth. The mouth of the crater is perhaps a
mile long and three-quarters of a mile broad, and,
they say, quite dwarfs that of Vesuvius. One felt
what mighty occult forces were at work within the
earth of which we know so little. We came down to
a little tea-house, near which they are building a
small wooden temple to Buddha, instead of some six
or seven which formerly stood there, and on the
way down passed a small statue of Buddha, who is
apparently considered to be warder of the volcano.
We came down a most precipitous path (to ride was
impossible) to a most active sulphurous geyser, which
only broke out a few years ago from the side of the
mountain. The columns of steam from this and from
the great crater are distinctly visible at Kumamoto,
twenty-five miles off. We walked on to the place
where we had appointed our jinriksha men to meet
us ; and there they were, great hearty fellows, laugh-
ing and chattering in the highest spirits at the
prospect of their run home. They ran the first
fifteen miles in two hours ten minutes, only pausing
once to rinse their mouths with water and drink a few
mouthfuls. Then we stopped twenty minutes for tea,
and they ran the last five miles in about forty

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 281

minutes, shouting most of the way, and coming in
at the top of their speed, and not in the least breath-
less or tired."

Truly the jinriksha runners of Japan are a wonder-
ful race. All the heavy work comes on their legs
and chests, which are splendidly developed ; but
their arms are, as a rule, very thin and small. We
were told there were no less than 30,000 of them in
Tokyo alone ; and the trade seems a popular one all
over the country. One man, a Christian convert,
pulled my brother in a jinriksha for about thirty
miles, and when asked if he were tired, said, "No,
by the grace of God I am never tired," and went on
cheerfully for another ten miles. When running with
a party they almost invariably insist on following
one behind the other, the heaviest person being put
first, so as to regulate the speed, with due regard to
the strength of the men. But one day when we
were a party of five, journeying along a broad high-
road, our men suddenly ran abreast of each other,
laughing and joking in the most comical fashion,
though the road led up a long, heavy hill.

But to return to Kumamoto. While my father
and brother were at Aso San, Mrs. Bickersteth
and I were seeing a good deal of life in a pro-
vincial city. My hostesses had only recently arrived
from England, so they were unable to teach in
Japanese ; but they had opened two classes for

282 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

teaching English to young men and girls, and by this
means had secured several pupils for a Sunday after-
noon Bible-class. I was present at the English class
for young men, and much admired the determina-
tion with which they attacked our difficult language.
One pupil had been so eager to learn that he had
offered to come and board with my hostesses, adding
that "he would arrange for the keeping of his body,"
i.e. for his daily food.

In Kiushiu European thought and modes of ex-
pression have evidently penetrated to a much less
degree than in the Main Island. For instance, Mr.
Brandram told us that a local paper had thus de-
scribed my father (in Japanese) : " Mr. Exeter, Bishop
of Cambridge, accompanied by Mrs. Devonshire, has
come to Japan" — a truly delightful mixture of his
diocese, University, wife, and county. A Japanese
gentleman, who gave lessons to my hostesses, fur-
nished me with another interesting example of the
ignorance of modern life and thought even among
people of good position in the city. I had bought a
little tea-pot and a set of cups in a curio-shop, and
wished very much to know if they were genuine
specimens of old china. This gentleman being a
connoisseur, he kindly promised that he would come
and decide the knotty point for me. He duly
arrived late one evening ; and when we had got
through our preliminary bows, told Miss Eiddell

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 283

that he wished to make me a speech. Of course I
consented at once ; and, interpreted by my friends, he
made me a formal address, saying that though I had
come to Japan, I had probably seen nothing of interest
in the country. I replied with many compliments on
the beauty and interest of each place we had visited,
and then he said, like the old rhyme, "And now my
speech is done," and proceeded to critically examine
the china. Having held it in every possible position,
and read the marks of the maker, he pronounced that
it was a hundred years old, and well made ; the
first being proved by the delicacy of the colouring —
modern work would not be so good — and the second
by the fact that the lid of the tea-pot, if reversed,
could be neatly fitted between the spout and handle.
Then we began to talk about the castle, and at
once his strong conservatism disclosed itself. A
remark made by one of us treated the story of
the giant builder and his millstone as a legend.
His sensitive pride was roused in a moment. He
rose from his seat, his face working with emotion.
" Of course it was true ; the man was a giant, as big
as the Bishop." But with due respect for my brother's
height (more than six feet), I fear even this telling
argument failed to convince me of the truth of the
legend ; and it was strange to compare this man, a
gentleman of good position in Kumamoto, with the
sharp-witted, essentially modern barrister who had

284 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

given the Japanese dinner-party in our honour at
Tokyo.

Yet the new thought and life are penetrating in
every direction. I happened to ask my brother one
day when we were travelling through a quiet country
district whether this was not really " Old Japan," for
not a trace of the new foreign influence seemed to
be visible anywhere. His only reply was to point
out a man who was diligently reading a newspaper
in a shop, and to say, " That would have been im-
possible in the old days." My friend's simple faith
in the giant and his millstone will be scorned by
the next generation in Kiushiu as it already is in
Tokyo and in all the great cities of the Main Island.
The question, therefore, cannot fail to present itself
to anyone who looks below the surface of modern
Japanese society, "What is to take the place of the
old imperfect faith and reverence when these have
been shattered by the revelations of modern science,
unless some attempt is made to give to the people
as a whole an insight into the true faith and hope of
Christendom ? "

The following afternoon my hostesses took me to see
the Buddhist temple beyond the city walls which had
been dedicated to Kato Ky omasa, the great lord of
the castle. On our way we passed through a leper
village, and numbers of the poor creatures stood by
the roadside, begging for alms and showing their

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN 285

sores. They had probably chosen that spot because
the temple was a famous one, and attracted many
hundreds of pilgrims. Just outside its precincts
we left our jinrikshas and walked through a street
of shops, in which small shrines with figures of
Kyomasa, and Buddhist rosaries could be bought,
varying from a few sen (halfpence) in price, to many
dollars. We then climbed a long flight of steps to
the temple itself, lepers standing or sitting on each side
in the worst stages of the disease. As we approached
the central shrine we noticed that many of them
were engaged apparently in the most earnest devotion.
One boy was shaking his head from side to side as
he prayed, and my friends told me he was always
doing this whenever they visited the temple. Just
behind the image of Kyomasa a woman was rocking
backwards and forwards, also without any cessation,
holding, meanwhile, a miserable-looking baby in her
arms. Close under the building one poor old woman
had fallen asleep in her misery, as if she felt the very
neighbourhood of the shrine could help her. In the
courtyard a man ran up and; down muttering his
prayers and apparently afraid of breaking some vow
if he stopped for a moment. It was a piteous sight ;
and the temple being a stronghold of Buddhism, it
would be very difficult to start any direct missionary
work among the lepers. But since our return to Eng-
land we have heard that Miss Eiddell and Miss Nott

286 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

are very eager to attempt a small hospital for them ;
and this might succeed where other methods would
fail. As it is, the mere existence of such a temple
in Japan made us long for the days when powerful
Christian influence in the land will render it an
impossibility, and meanwhile we could only trust that
the groanings of those poor lepers did reach to
heaven, though the true God was so utterly unknown
to them.

While at Kumamoto my father wrote the following
letter to the editor of the Times, which was inserted
in its Christmas Day issue : —

" Sir, — As you gave a short paragraph in your
Ecclesiastical Intelligence last July in prospect of my
visit to the field of my son's labours, the Bishop of
the Church of England in Japan, it may interest your
readers to learn my impressions after a few weeks'
sojourn in this land upon which the Gospel is
dawning.

"It is impossible to help being attracted by the
Japanese. Their quiet order and submission to
authority, their instinctive courtesy, their bright
smile and merry laughter, their carefully-tended
homesteads and gardens, their agricultural industry,
which verifies the saying, ' In Japan crops follow
each other so quickly the soil has no time to grow
weeds ; ' their wonderful imitative talent, which
always attempts to improve on that it copies, and not

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN ' 287

seldom succeeds ; the tenderness of parents and the
happiness of little children, their passion for educa-
tion and their mental powers — these things must
strike every stranger. They are emphatically a
people of bright hope — eue\7riSe9, as Thucydides says
of the Athenians. While, at the same time, if any
one dreams that Shintoism or Buddhism can produce
the same fruit as Christianity, it only needs to learn
what lies beneath the surface of society here for the
illusion to pass away like a dream. Home is not to
them what home is to us. The boys, so happy in early
childhood, are too often petted and spoiled ; they are
not taught to obey ; they bully each other and their
parents. The women, graceful and gracious as they
are in their youth, grow old prematurely. The men
who have only eight, or at most ten, festival days of
rest in the year, show the need of that one-day -in-
seven Sabbath which was made for man ; they are not
a long-lived race. But there are worse evils : the
grossest superstition or blind materialism, concubin-
age and impurity, fickleness and inconstancy, though
with noble and notable exceptions, are widely preva-
lent. Christianity alone can cope with the vices and
foster the virtues of this great nation of more than
40,000,000 souls. But no Christian man can note their
many fascinating characteristics without exclaiming,
Quoniam talis es, utinam noster esses. It is recorded
of St. Bernard that his first question to his missioners,

288 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

when they returned from their missions, always was,
' Could you love those to whom you were sent ? '
It is no hard task to love the Japanese.

" I have received the heartiest welcome from the
converts at Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Fukuyama, Kobe,
Kumamoto, and other places. Of their own accord
they generally organised receptions, and, having read
me an address which was interpreted by the mission-
ary, catechist, or school-master, they would listen with
evidently the keenest interest to my assurances of the
deep sympathy which England cherished for those
who had embraced or were embracing the faith in this
far-off land. A few sentences from the address I
received at Kobe, a translation of which was placed in
my hands, will tell the import of others : —

" ' May we not look upon this your crossing so many
leagues of sea and land to visit our country as an
advance signal of God's purpose soon to spread the
knowledge of His way throughout our land ? The
town of Kobe in which we live, as the passage-way of
traffic and commerce, day by day grows in business,
and month by month the population increases, so that
we are persuaded it will become a place of utmost
importance. On this account many false religions of
various kinds have exerted their energies here. On
the other hand, in our own holy Church the clergy
who preach the will of God are but one or two, and
this has been a cause of constant grief to us. And

EUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 289

we venture to beg that when your Lordship returns
to England you will let these facts be known to our
brothers and sisters there, that they may join with us
in looking up to God and praying Him of His mercy
to send forth other suitable workers hither.'

" These words touch on some of the gravest diffi-
culties which beset the missionary of the Cross here.
The Protean forms of unbelief and misbelief which have
troubled the Church of God in England and Europe,
all find their counterpart in Japan. Buddhism has
now only a feeble hold on the educated classes here,
and our missionaries are seldom harassed by open
hostility. If it breaks forth it soon subsides. At
Nagoya, where I spent three days shortly before the
late destructive earthquake, I addressed one Sunday
evening in the Mission-hall a crowded congregation,
mainly consisting of non-Christians, and among the
audience was the ring-leader of opponents who six
months ago had threatened to stone the missionary
and burn the hall : that night he and his wife sat
quietly listening to the message of salvation. The
contest now lies between Christianity and infidelity.
Of sceptics the name is legion. And hence the
urgent necessity that our missionaries should be men
of culture, and able to expose the hollow pretensions
of agnosticism. And I gladly bear witness, so far as
a passing visitor's judgment is of value, to the ex-
ceptional power of the band of men whom England's

290 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Church has sent forth, and is sending forth, in in-
creasing numbers to this mission-field.

"When my son came here as Bishop in 1886 there
were only 15 ordained clergymen of our Church (14
English and 1 Japanese) in his vast diocese ; there
are now 46 (35 Europeans and 11 Japanese) clergy-
men. There were then 5 missionary ladies ; there
are now 30. Of these 76 labourers the Church
Missionary Society has sent forth 38, the Gospel
Propagation Society four, the Canadian Church three,
and some have come entirely at their own cost. The
Bishopric is supported equally by the two sister
societies (S.P.G. and C.M.S.). Singular wisdom
seems to me to have been vouchsafed to those who
have directed the missionary work here in training
labourers for the different departments of their great
embassy, and in establishing germinal institutions
which are striking deep root in the soil. It is not
only evangelists who are needed (how sore the need is
of simple heralds of the Gospel only an eye-witness
can feel) ; but trained shepherds and skilled spiritual
workmen and wise leaders are needed in every great
city. The S. Andrew's and S. Hilda's Institutes at
Tokio, which are communities with no monastic vows,
are doing a great and good work. These are mainly
supported by S. Paul's Guild, which now numbers
2,000 members in England. Then there are the
Divinity Schools and High-Class Schools for Boys,

KUMAMOTO AND ASO SAN. 291

Homes for Training Bible-women and Nurses, and many
other agencies. And if so great an advance has been
made, and so many converts gathered in during the
last few years, when most of the labourers have had
to learn the language and the use of their tools, it is
not, I hope, over-sanguine to anticipate that during
the next decade the seed sown will bring forth — some
thirty-, some sixty-, and some a hundred-fold.

" I have spoken only of the mission work of the
Church of England here. The American Episcopal
Church was long before us in the field. The two
missions are labouring together in happiest inter-
communion, and hold a united synod of the Nippon
set Kokwai, ' the Church in Japan,' once in two
years. Also the American Nonconformist missionaries
and teachers are here in far greater numbers than
the Episcopalians. We thank God for their holy zeal
and labour of love. But the Episcopal Churches of
England and America have increased five-fold during
the last few years. There is that in their reverent
ritual which seems especially suited to commend itself
to the order-loving Japanese ; and their liturgies and
creeds are simply priceless amid the shifting currents
of religious thought which are swaying the mind of
Japan at this crisis.

" I had often heard it said before I came here that,
if Christendom rose in her might, Japan would be won
for Christ in the next ten years. And no doubt a

u 2

292 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

great door and effectual is opened here. But let no
one think that this vast Empire is to be won without
our taking up the cross and following the evangelists
of former ages as they followed Christ. Of the forty
millions in Japan not more than one in 400 has yet
been baptized. There are many large towns and
thousands of villages utterly untouched by Christianity
at present. My son pleads for fifty more labourers
(men and women) from England. Is it too much to
hope that our Church will supply them during the
next three years ? If my life is spared, I will gladly
bear the cost of one more European labourer as a
thank-offering for what my eyes have seen and my
ears have heard of the triumphs of the Gospel here.
And I hope, on my return — which, please God, will be
almost as soon as you receive this letter — to plead
with some willing hearts who will respond to the cry
from our brethren here — ' Come over and help us,'
and with many others who, unable themselves to go,
will sustain the labourers sent forth. Seldom in the
history of the Church has there been a prospect of a
larger harvest : and they who sow and they who reap
will rejoice together.

"E. H. Exon."

( 293 )

CHAPTER XVI.

JAPANESE FUNERALS.

While in Kumamoto we met a large funeral, which,
from information given me afterwards by the Rev. J.
Imai Toshimichi, was evidently a Shinto one. Shinto
rites of burial are, he says, of quite recent origin,
though the worshippers claim that they are a revival
of ancient usages as practised before the introduction
of Buddhism into Japan. For many centuries the
Buddhist priests ruled supreme in all rites of burial,
and much of their influence may be traced to this
supremacy. But during recent years an edict passed
by the Japanese Government took away the privilege
from them, and thus dealt a tremendous blow at
their influence over the people. Earnest followers of
Shinto, of whom, since the reaction in favour of things
Japanese at the time of the Revolution, there are a
large number in Japan, revived or instituted Shinto
rites of burial. Converts to Christianity were also
free to bury their dead according to the rites of
the Christian faith. Mr. Imai said that a Shinto
funeral is conducted in the following manner. On

294 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

the death of any member of a family, the relations
send for a Kannushi, or Shinto priest, and acquaint
him with the address of the house, the date and hour
of burial, the cemetery, etc. They also say whether
the funeral will be " Jo-to" " Chu-to" or " Ka-to;"
that is, first-, second-, or third-class in grandeur.

To describe a middle-class funeral. The day having
come, the Kannushi (priest) will prepare all things
according to the class of rite agreed upon. Many
other priests will be in attendance as well as the one
who conducts the service. Some of them will be on
horseback, and all will be dressed in their official
robes. A procession is formed in the following order :
1. Flowers sent by friends of the deceased. 2. Banners
of five different colours — blue, yellow, red, white and
black. 3. The priests on horseback and in carriages.
4. Banners bearing the name and title of the de-
ceased. 5. The coffin. 6. The son of the deceased
follows barefooted. 7. The other relations, all dressed
in white. 8. Priests. 9. Friends in carriages.
10. Extra flowers, tables, etc.

A service is held in the house before the coffin is
carried out, and includes a Norito, or prayer, in
ancient Japanese style. The coffin is made of white
wood, and an unpainted staff, cut from the sacred
Sakaki tree, is carried by the priest, ornamented
with white paper, white being always used for
mourning in Japan. The priest bows three times

JAPANESE FUNERALS. 295

to the coffin before and after reading the Norito, and
the procession then starts for the graveyard. The
coffin is buried at once, and a pole with the name of
the deceased is placed upon the grave, and also a small
table with offerings of water, wine, rice, etc., the flowers
being arranged all round the tomb. The chief priest
then stands before the tomb with a bunch of Sakaki
(evergreen) in his hands, which are clasped together
on his breast. He bows three times, puts the branch
on the table, reads a prayer, and recites a life of the
deceased. He then takes up the branch once more,
bows three times, and replaces it on the table, retir-
ing a few steps, in order to allow the nearest relations
and all the other people who have attended the funeral
to follow his example. This concludes the ceremony
at the grave, and the friends disperse after they
have been offered tea and cake, generally at a neigh-
bouring tea-house.

The family and near relations, however, accompanied
by the priests, return to the house of mourning, and
there the Kannusld conducts a further service. A small
table is arranged with a few offerings upon it, and the
name of the deceased in its centre. Another Norito
(prayer) is read, which begs for pardon from the
spirit of the deceased for the imperfections of the
funeral, and expresses grief for his departure, with
prayer that he will become the guardian spirit of the
family. Finally, the Kannusld formally purifies all '

296 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

who have attended the funeral, and this completes
the ceremony. In some cases, a gathering of friends
would be held at night, who would try and cheer the
relations of the dead after their loss ; but this would
depend upon the wishes of the family. The number
ten is closely connected with the dead, and on the
tenth, twentieth and thirtieth days, various cere-
monies are observed. On the tenth day, the priest
arrives at the house of the deceased, and after
arranging a small altar with offerings, chiefly of
vegetables and fruits, he says a prayer by which the
spirit of the dead is made to indwell in a mirror,
which hereafter is treated as his memorial and
dwelling-place. The friends then give a festival
dinner, for the characteristic idea of a Shinto funeral is
that of rejoicing. The departed is not dead, but his
spirit has " become God," and he has joined all his
great and good ancestors, and shares with them in the
Divine dignity. Not only are the tenth, twentieth,
and thirtieth days observed in his honour, but also
the corresponding years, so that a person may be
commemorated three hundred years and more subse-
quent to his decease. As Mr. Imai says, there is
something very striking in the entire simplicity of a
Shinto funeral, and in the manner in which it suggests
the eternal existence of souls, though it is entirely
without the belief, " I believe in the resurrection of
the body."

JAPANESE FUNERALS. 297

Buddhist funerals, on the other hand, are very
elaborate, and furnish a strange contrast to those
of Shinto. The " Zen-shu " sect, whose followers be-
lieve in annihilation, forms the solitary exception
to this rule. To them, existence is a dream ; death,
the destruction of being, is a return to reality, and
funeral rites are a matter of utter indifference. One
of the most famous priests of this sect wrote some
poetry, which Mr. Imai tells me well illustrates its
views. He translates it thus : —

" Burn me not, nor bury me if I die,
But throw these remains of mine
Among weeds of the field, and let them lie
To feed dogs in hunger pining."

Such an idea of burial could scarcely be widely
popular, and the rites of other sects are therefore
widely used in Japan. To take an example, again,
from the middle class of funeral.

The coffin having been procured, the body is
washed in warm water, and dressed in white, the
head being cleanly shaved, and a small coin
(Shimon sen) put in its mouth to pay the ferry
across the Sandzu river. A table covered with
white linen is placed near the coffin, in order to
receive the incense and other offerings made by
friends before the funeral. Friends watch beside the
body at night, and are careful to keep lights and
incense burning during the seven days which

298 JAPAN AIS WE SAW IT.

generally precede the funeral. This attention to the
dead will be kept up by the family for six weeks
afterwards, but the friends will not attend. The
priest (bonzu) then arrives, and repeats portions of
the Buddhist scriptures, ringing a little bell mean-
while.

The procession on the funeral day is a good deal
like that of the Shinto worshippers, who, indeed,
probably borrowed their ceremonies from it.

The principal differences to be noted are (a) no
banners are carried ; (b) a larger number of flowers
are used, among which the lotus flower has the
first place ; (c) the priests are never on horseback.

The procession having arrived at the temple, the
coffin is buried in the graveyard, with a prayer of
commendation that the departed spirit may become
Butsu — i.e. either Buddha, or extinguished, or trans-
ferred to Paradise. Water is offered and sprinkled
on the grave, and white lanterns are stuck round it.
Then, returning to the temple, the priest burns
incense before the Ikai (tablet) of the deceased,
which bears his name, not the name by which he
was known during life, but a new name given to him
at death. This naming of the soul at its entrance
into the other world, as well as into this one, is a very
interesting feature in Buddhism, and has no counter-
part in Shinto. Incense is then burned by all the
relations and friends ; many bows are made by them,

JAPANESE FUNERALS. 299

and silent prayers are offered, probably asking that
the deceased may become Butsu.

The funeral is then over, and the mourners and
nearest friends return to the house of mourning. The
new Ikai (tablet) of the deceased is put on the table,
and incense and water are again offered before it.
This is kept up for seven weeks, some of the family
or friends also visiting the grave each day. On the
seventh day a vegetarian dinner is given to the
priest and relations, etc., at which the priest will try
to deepen the superstitious reverence of the people by
telling them tales of the other world. The spirit is
supposed to dwell on the top of the roof for forty-
nine days, and everything is done during that time
to secure his happiness. But the seventh week being
over, his Ikai is gradually neglected, though the
anniversary of his death will be carefully observed,
and special attention will be paid to the seventh,
fourteenth, and twenty -first years, and so on. A
stone is put up over his tomb at the first anniversary,
and the graveyards all over Japan are noticeable for
neatness, and beauty of situation, commanding almost
always a fine view of the nearest city or surrounding-
country.

As regards the Buddhistic idea of Paradise, Mr.
Imai was able to give us some curious details regard-
ing the present popular teaching of Japanese priests
on the subject. Paradise is described by them in

300 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

four ways: (l) The philosophical ideal; really no
Paradise at all, but the Nirvana of Indian Buddhism ;

(2) The popular ideal, Gokaruku, in which poverty,
death, tears, separation, illness, and age are unknown ;

(3) The Paradise, or Paradise- worlds, of Transmigra-
tion, in which world succeeds world, beginning with
the present one. According to this, husband and
wife will remain such for three worlds, master and
servant the same for seven worlds, and so on. All
special relationships will then cease, and individuality
will alone remain. (4) The Paradise, or Paradise-
worlds, of Transmigration, unconnected with this
world, seven in number, succeeding each other as
effect succeeds cause, but at times reduced, for the
sake of convenience in popular teaching, to only
three. This Paradise having no connection with the
present world, and offering no solution of the varied
gifts and unequal happiness of man, is not open
to all, but is always accompanied by a corresponding
Hell.

The Buddhist priests constantly vary their teach-
ing according to their audience. The more popular
doctrines are found useful for a crowd of old women
in a temple, and Nirvana is reserved for the in-
telligent inquirer seeking private tuition.

Mrs. Hind, of Fukuoka, told us that the people in
that city observed specially curious ceremonies on the
anniversary of the death of their relations, and that

JAPANESE FUNERALS. 301

during August she had picked up small paper boats
on the shore which had been despatched with supplies
of food for the dead.

Mr. Imai afterwards sent me an explanation of
these ceremonies, which will probably interest my
readers as much as it did myself.

In some districts of Japan, he said, the old calendar
is used, and the memorial ceremonies which belong
to July 13th to 16th are observed between August
10th and 30th. They commence with a festival
called " Ura bon ye" or " the day of all souls," when
all souls of the departed are supposed to return from
the eternal journey to their old homes. At the vigil
observed on the day before the festival a fire is
lighted, which is called the " Welcome home." The
Butsudan is decorated, and all sorts of vegetables,
cakes, etc., are offered upon it to the dead. Horses
made of cucumber, with tails made of hairs of Indian
corn, are also provided for them, the horses being
supposed to carry the soul home. Every kind of
hospitality is shown, and all sorts of kindly actions are
practised during the time. The days are made par-
ticularly pleasant to children, and Mr. Imai says that
in his own province, Kotsuke, fires are kept burning
all night at the entrance of the houses. The young
men and girls wear festival dresses with masks
over their faces, and dances are frequent. The
boys are allowed to stay out late at night, and

302 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

friendly fights are carried on between those of
neighbouring districts, the victors returning home
with spoils of cakes and fruit, etc., such small acts
of robbery being considered to promote the feudal
spirit of the time. The girls meanwhile have pro-
cessions of lanterns, and go along singing little
songs in honour of the festival.

At last all being over, " Fires of farewells " are
lighted at every door, and the souls of the departed
resume once more their travels towards Paradise.
How do they ever arrive there if they return to
earth so often? Mr. Imai says this question has
been asked in Japan ; but apparently no answer has
ever been given to it. The offerings of food to the
dead are either thrown into the river or the sea, or
in some places are burnt. It must have been some
of these pathetic little craft that Mrs. Hind found
stranded on the shore at Fukuoka.

( 303 )

CHAPTER XVII.

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN.

Nov. 13. — We left Kumamoto at a quarter past
seven the following morning, en route to Nagasaki,
from which we were to sail for England. Mr. Brand-
ram, Miss Eiddell, and Miss Nott came to the station
to see us off, and we had a pleasant journey from
Kumamoto to Saga, with constant views of Shimabara,
the mountain resort of the missionaries during the
great heat of summer. At Saga, which we reached
at 11 a.m., we took jinrikshas, and travelled in them
for thirty miles, to a large town called Ureshino, the
same set of runners taking us all the way. It was a
beautiful journey, especially when late in the afternoon
we went through one of the mountain passes. Its
sides were clothed with white camellia-trees in full
bloom interspersed with scarlet maples and deep
crimson wax-trees, the vivid contrast between the
two being made yet more vivid by the never-failing
Japanese background of dark fir-trees and evergreen
oaks. To add to the beauty of all, we had on our
right the glow of a lovely sunset, pale lilac in the

304

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

intense clearness of an Eastern sky. On our left
the full moon had risen, the stars were coming out,
and we ourselves, with our line of quaint carriages
and men, lighted by two or three Chinese lanterns,
made a picturesque centre to the scene.

At Ureshino we were to spend our second, and my
father's fourth, night in a Japanese inn. It was

JAPANESE BED.

larger than the one at Utsunomiya, and we were
even more of a curiosity to its owners. Mrs. Bicker-
steth and I had a room on the upper floor, and the
two Bishops shared a room immediately below us.
The wind blew cold that night through the paper
walls, and we were glad to get the amado, or wooden
shutters, drawn outside the verandah. The rooms

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 305

were unfurnished, except for their matted floors, and
a low screen, not nearly reaching to the ceiling,
formed the only division between us and the guest
in the next room. However, the landlady assured us
that our neighbour upstairs was " a very nice man
— a student at the University," and certainly nothing
could exceed the quietness of his behaviour. Of
course any arrangement for washing was impossible
inside the inn, as it was a regular Japanese house,
in which the bath-room would be always more or
less public. But though my brother was not at
hand when Mrs. Bickersteth and I first examined
our lodgings for the night, we both remembered
our success with the tin pails in the verandah at
Utsunomiya. We therefore clapped our hands — the
right way to summon a Japanese servant — and when
the maid appeared, diligently washed them with in-
visible soap, saying " Oyu " (hot water). This effort
was rewarded with much success, and to our pride
and satisfaction a solitary shallow wooden bowl,
full of steaming hot water and standing on four legs,
was soon placed in the verandah, and renewed the
next morning.

Much revived, we set to work to prepare an
evening meal ; and the landlady soon hoisted in a
foreign table, with only one leg missing (which she
brought afterwards), and also four chairs. Though
our few weeks in Japan had convinced us that the

x

306

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

floor undoubtedly has its virtues, we were tired after
the long journey, and did not despise these English
comforts. As regards food, meat, bread, and milk
are unknown except in the great cities; but Mrs.
Brandram had filled our tiffin basket, and with its

A BLIND SHAMPOOER.

assistance, and some Japanese rice and eggs, we made
a capital dinner, the landlady and maid sitting on the
floor meanwhile, and kindly admiring our dexterity
with chopsticks. Outside the inn dismal music was
going on, and a story-teller was discoursing loudly,

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 307

and inside our room the group was soon increased by
the head jinriksha man, who came to bargain with
my brother i for the next day's journey. It must be
confessed that this man tried hard to take in the
foreigners, and charge 80 sen {2s. 8d.) each, instead
of the right fare, probably about 40 sen. But my
brother having overheard the landlady say to him,
"You know you took me for 25 sen" (8^c?.), kept
quite firm. The jinriksha man did not get his point,
but had to accept 55 or 60 sen, which was really
very good pay ; and, as foreigners are heavier than
Japanese, a just increase on the sum that he had
received for the landlady. My brother then told
him that he had overheard' the conversation between
him and the landlady. This sent all the Japanese
present into fits of laughing, for there is nothing
they love better than a good joke, or to see a neigh-
bour's trick exposed.

We went to bed early, having previously refused
an offer from the landlady of a high wooden pillow.
Men in Japan use a hard bolster ; but women, who
only arrange their hair about once a week, use these
wooden pillows, which fit into the back of the neck,
and ensure that their coiffure is not disturbed during
the night. We did our best to be comfortable, and
with one futon (quilt) rolled up for a pillow, and two
others for our mattress and blankets, we managed to
get a fair amount of sleep. My brother, of course,

x 2

308 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

continually sleeps in such inns, and says that in
winter they are extremely cold, as even we could tell
from a comparatively warm night in November. We
rose early, and after a comfortable breakfast of tea
and eggs, and a warm farewell from the landlady,
started in our jinrikshas by half-past seven. In a
Japanese inn a bill is duly brought ; but the visitor
must invariably add a little extra to the amount,
which is called " Cha dai." At a wayside tea-house,
on the contrary, no bill ever appears ; but the cus-
tomer deposits what he considers a suitable sum in
the corner of the tea-tray.

We left Ureshino in thick fog, and were glad of
all the wraps we had brought with us ; but the fog
soon cleared off, and we had a pleasant run down to
Sonogi, a little town on the north of the great Gulf
of Omara. It was scarcely more than a fishing village,
but a little coasting steamer called there each morning,
which would take us round the gulf to Tokitsu, another
small town, only ten miles' run in jinrikshas from
Nagasaki, the great southern port of Japan.

We had some time to wait at the hotel at Sonogi,
as our steamer, which was due at ten o'clock, did not
arrive until an hour later. The villagers gathered
round us, and gently stroked and admired our clothes,
having evidently seen but] little of foreigners. A
rough pier of dark brown rocks ran out into the sea,
and we walked up and down it, admiring the view of

LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. 309

the bay, which was very like a quiet corner in the
Inland Sea. It was difficult indeed to realise that
our tour in Japan was nearly over, and that the very
next day would see us on our way to China, and
separated from my brother, with whom we had spent
such a delightful eleven weeks. But we tried hard
not to let sad thoughts of the parting enter too often
into this last day together; and when the quaint
little steamer came within rowing distance of Sonogi,
we soon went out to it in a sampan, and settled our-
selves comfortably on board. The deck was very
narrow, and had no seats, so we encamped on the roof
of the tiny cabin. There we spent a most enjoyable
three hours, as the steamer slowly made her way to
Tokitsu, and we lazily watched the great purple
jelly-fish that sailed past us in the clear waters of
the gulf. We only stopped at one place en route,
partly to take in passengers and partly to replenish
the boiler with water, which was taken straight out
of the sea, the operation being performed in a most
primitive fashion with great wooden ladles.

The steamer reached Tokitsu by 2 p.m., and after
the usual bargaining with the jinriksha men, we
started for the ten miles' run to Nagasaki. The road
was pretty, but very hot and dusty ; and we were
glad when the city came in sight, and we could stop at
the house of Mr. and Mrs. Fuller, the C.M.S. mission-
ary and his wife, who had kindly offered us hospitality

310 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

for the night. They lived close to the water, on the
Island of Deshinia, which in old days was the only
spot in Japan where foreigners (and those only the
Dutch) were allowed to land. At the present time a
stranger would find it difficult to realise that it is
an island, as it is joined to the mainland by several
bridges.

Nagasaki is built on the shore of a beautiful land-
locked bay, and the harbour looked very gay that
afternoon, crowded with shipping, among which we
noticed the Imperieuse, a British man-of-war, and
the General Werder, the German vessel in which we
were to sail to China. AVe had secured a passage
on a P. & 0., but unfortunately the steamer due to
sail that week was in dock.

After tea, Mr. Fuller accompanied us in a final
shopping expedition — the last of many pleasant
ones that we had made during our tour in Japan.
Nagasaki shops are very foreign in their arrangements,
with counters, chairs and tables as prosaic as those of
Bond Street ; but we found plenty of genuine Japanese
goods in them, including fine specimens of tortoise-
shell and lacquer-work. In one of the tortoiseshell
shops, for instance, there was a complete model of
a large steamer of the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha Line,
a sister boat to the Kobe Maru, in which we had
come through the Inland Sea. Every detail of it was
faithfully represented in the tortoiseshell. They told

LAST LAYS IN JAPAN. 311

us at Kobe that it is by heating the small shells
that they can weld them into what is apparently one
large one, twisting them also into the tiny wheels
and cables of a model such as we saw that day.

Nov. 15 (Sunday). — The next morning the weather
was perfection, sunny and warm like early September
in England. We went off at 9 a.m. to the Mission
Church, where, after Matins in Japanese, my brother
confirmed several candidates, three men and four
women. Two of the men were medical students,
and two of the women pupils from Mrs. Goodall's
successful school for girls in Nagasaki. It was a
very interesting service, and seemed a fitting close
to all we; had seen of his work in Japan. We had
just time to stay to the end, and then went to
morning service at the English Church, which is
built on one of the hills above the harbour. My
father preached, and nearly all the foreign residents
in Nagasaki were present. It was followed by a
Celebration of Holy Communion, and we then walked
down to the house of the consul (Mr. Hall), who
had kindly invited us, and the captain and com-
mander of the Imperieuse, to luncheon. His house
was in a perfect situation, overlooking the bay of
Nagasaki. We were much struck with a great fir-tree
growing in the centre of the hall, its trunk passing
through the roof, as the architect had not liked to
cut it down when planning the building. Mr. and

312 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Mrs. Hall and their children gave us a very courteous
welcome, but we had to leave them directly after
luncheon, and return to Mr. Fuller's house for our
luggage, as the General Werder was to sail at four
o'clock, and had already been kept back an hour
for our advantage. The consul kindly took us on
board in his own boat, and we all tried to think
of the delightful time we had spent in Japan rather
than the coming good-bye to my brother. But
partings at the best must be painful work, and
when the General Werder rang her final bell, it
was very hard to see him go. He returned in
the consul's boat to shore, and we stood at the
ship's side waving our handkerchiefs until he was
lost to sight among the shipping of the crowded
harbour. Almost at the same moment the General
Werder began to move, and soon we were steam-
ing rapidly through the bay of Nagasaki, passing by
the island of Pappenberg — where, 200 years ago,
it is said that thousands of Japanese Christians were
thrown over the rocks because they would not trample
on the cross — and watching the lights of Nagasaki,
until it was too dark to remain any longer on deck.

( 313 )

CHAPTEK XVIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Our voyage to Hong Kong in the General Werder
was rough, but decidedly favourable. She was a fine
vessel, and made the passage in less than four days,
entering the harbour of Hong Kong very early on the
1 9th of November.

We had a full week to wait at Hong Kong, as our
next steamer, the P. and 0. Peshawur, did not start
until the 26th. But, thanks to the kind hospitality
afforded us by Mrs. Burdon of S. Paul's College, the
delay gave us a delightful glimpse into English life in
a large foreign settlement, and we also managed to
spend a day in Canton.

Bishop Burdon was, to our regret, absent at
Shanghai, where he was presiding over a Conference
on the revision of the present Chinese translation of
the Bible, but his wife and son did everything in
their power to show us the sights of the island.

On one day we went along the Viaduct road to the
noble Titam-tuk reservoirs, which supply the city of
Victoria with water, and on another we went up to

'314 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

the Peak, a hill-station 1300 feet above the city, and
.always ten degrees lower in temperature.

We also visited the Botanical Gardens, and lunched
at Government House with the Acting-Governor,
General Barker. On Sunday, Nov. 22, my father
preached in the Cathedral in the morning, and in the
Seamen's Chapel at night, both times to crowded con-
gregations. He also inspected the work of the C.M.S.
Mission in Hong Kong ; and it was under the very
efficient guidance of Mr. Grundy, one of the mission-
aries, that we paid our visit to Canton.

Eiots had been going on at that time in Amoy
and other Chinese cities, so we decided to go up
the river by night, and after spending the day in
Canton, to return to Hong Kong by night also. We
therefore embarked on the Fatshan, one of the com-
fortable line of steamers that ply daily between the
two cities. She had an English captain and officers,
but a Chinese crew, and a large stand of flre-
.arms was placed in the saloon, in case of any rising
von the part of the crew.

We sailed from Hong Kong at 5.30 p.m. and arrived
at Canton by 8 a.m. on the following morning. We
went on deck at once, and were much interested by
the " river population," in the midst of which our
steamer had anchored. Four hundred thousand of
the Cantonese live in boats, and form quite a distinct
population from those on shore. They are born,

HOMEWARD BOUND. 315

married, live and die on their tiny craft, and it is
reported that people on shore will not intermarry with
them until they have lived on shore also for three
generations. A small, arched bamboo roof covered
half the boat, and made the family bedroom, the
open part being devoted to passengers, cooking, or
cargo, as the case might require. Each boat was
worked by a single oar, and each had its own
place in the neat rows near the wharf. Yet any
boat could make its way out with a little polite
assistance from its neighbours. If a man wanted
to go on shore, or visit his friends, he jumped on
the roof of Lis own craft and dropped in upon his
neighbour's, or stepped ashore with the utmost ease.

Mr. Grundy having received news that the city was
considered perfectly quiet and safe for foreigners that
day, we ordered "chairs," or palanquins, at once, and
started for a lon^ ramble through its narrow streets.
They are so narrow that two chairs can only just
pass each other ; light bamboo roofs often join the
upper storeys on either side, and just above our heads
hung numberless signboards, painted in gold, and
giving a most picturesque appearance to the streets.
Truly, we were in the land of pigtails, from the
few braided hairs of the babies, lengthened to their
full extent by a scarlet cord and tassel, to the mighty
appendages of their seniors, which had to be tucked
into the pocket or worn as a chignon when found at

316 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

all cumbersome. But, on the whole, the people were
very friendly. The children mocked at us, tapped
our arms, and made horrible faces when they caught
us looking at them. But the grown-up people were
quite pleasant, and would generally respond to a
smile. It was only at any little delay in the streets
that it came across one how difficult it would be to
escape in any sudden riot.

Mr. Grundy having been thirteen years in China, and
many of them in Canton, could talk Chinese fluently,
and he told us that he heard the people saying, " "We
must be careful what we say, he knows Chinese ! " He
took us first to the Foreign Concession, a well laid out
piece of ground near the river, and a great contrast to
the narrow streets of the native city. It was sad to
hear there was no regular English chaplain in Canton,
the foreign residents being quite content that a Non-
conformist minister should put on a surplice and read
the English service to them in their Church on
Sundays. The Koman Catholics, on the contrary, had
obtained leave to build a Cathedral in Canton itself,
and its graceful spires and fine proportions made us
long that our Church should be equally well re-
presented. Their efforts had not ended with the
Cathedral, for, at the time of our visit, they were
building a second Church in the Foreign Concession.

After a visit to an ivory warehouse and a furniture
shop, we went on to the Temple of the Five

HOMEWARD BOUND. 317

Hundred Genii. The outside looked very poor, after
the deep-pitched roofs of the Japanese temples, but
the figures inside were very curious. Buddha, of
course, was in the centre, calm and self-absorbed ras
usual, and on either side of him two hundred and
fifty followers, sitting in a long row of chairs placed
round the temple, and with the most comical expres-
sions on their faces. One of them had an abnormally
long arm, and another a European face and full
Spanish costume. This figure is generally believed
to represent Marco Polo, who was very popular with
the Chinese of his day.

Our next stoppage was at the Temple of the Five
Genii, five ugly figures holding ears of corn, maize,
millet, or grass, etc., in their hands, and with a
rough block of stone placed before them. These
stones represented five rams, according to the popular
tradition that five genii in the form of rams founded
the city of Canton, and were afterwards turned into
stone.

We then visited the nine -stor eyed pagoda, a grace-
ful building, with walls thirteen feet thick, but being
closed to visitors we could only examine it from the
courtyard. Mr. Grundy also took us to the Military
Quarters, formerly occupied by English troops, and
still owned by our Consulate. They are surrounded
by a beautiful garden, in which we met a Christian
Chinese boy, who knew some English, and had been

318 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

deserted by his father, and left to make his own way
in the great city. We gave him the address of a
missionary, and he seemed most grateful for a few
words of sympathy.

We then went to the celebrated temples on Kunyam
Hill. They were thronged with women, and we
listened to one poor thing praying very earnestly for
the recovery of her sick husband. She held a large
piece of paper in her hand, bought from the priest
for a few coppers, and said by them to be worth
thousands of pounds in the eyes of the gods. This
she lighted, and having carried it flaming across the
temple, dropped it into a hole in the wall pro-
vided for such offerings. It was a piteous sight, and
she reappeared at the next shrine with an offering of
a potato, money, and incense (joss) sticks, evidently
determined to leave no deity unasked to relieve her
trouble. From the platform of these temples there
is a fine bird's-eye view of Canton ; but we only
stayed there for a few minutes, and went on to the five-
storeyed pagoda on the city wall. We lunched on
its uppermost storey, and were rewarded for the
climb by a still finer view of the city, and of its
famous walls. They are from six to twenty feet wide,
and built of bricks, as smooth and stone-like in
their strength as those of the Komans. We also saw
in the distance the buildings called the " City of the
Dead," where the Chinese keep the bodies of their

HOMEWARD BOUND. 319-

relations until a suitable day can be fixed for the
funeral. The decision may not be made for months
and years, and varies according to the financial
interests of the priests, or the difficulty caused by a
distant place of burial.

After leaving the pagoda we returned to the
narrow streets, and everything seemed so quiet that
Mr. Grundy said we might walk for a little way,
instead of bein£ hurried along as before in our
palanquins. We thus obtained a capital idea of the
various trades carried on in a Chinese city, and,
though the colours seemed gaudy, and the houses
exceedingly dirty after Japan, we had an amusing
time peeping into them, and making friends with
their pig-tailed owners. We began with a gilt-thread
factory and embroidery warehouse, and went on to a
button maker's, in whose shop we bought little bunches
of five buttons, this being the orthodox Chinese
number, as every man wears five on his coat. We
stood outside the shops of the mandarins, gay with
gilt umbrellas and bridal crowns, and looked into
the highly-decorated eating-houses, and butchers'
shops, provided with any amount of pork and long
rows of ducks with outspread wings and curiously
flattened bodies. Then returning to our palanquins,
we passed a number of drapers' shops, where every
article of a Chinese costume could be procured, from
the tiny embroidered shoes of the foot-bound women

320 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

to the gay-colourecl coats and black satin pyjamas of
their husbands and brothers. Last, but not least,
we saw numbers of jade shops, in which earrings and
bracelets of the brilliant green stone lay in tempting
but terribly expensive profusion.

By this time we were getting very tired, but before
returning to the steamer we stopped at a large
Presbyterian Mission Hospital, conducted on Chinese
methods as regards food, bedding, etc., but with
European medicines and treatment. Dr. Kerr, the
Principal, was away, but his assistant, an intelli-
gent young Chinese, took us round the wards. Of
course, they looked very uncomfortable to English
eyes ; the beds were a few boards raised on bamboo
trestles, and the patients lay on them wrapped only
in a quilt or straw mat, and with an oblong wooden
or china pillow.* But the hospital being intended
for the destitute poor, it is thought best not to
make too strong a contrast between it and their
homes. It has done very good work in Canton, and
the city authorities have shown their appreciation by
contributing to its maintenance.
> We returned to the Fatshan by 4 p.m., and left
the wharf at 6.30, going very slowly at first, as the
river was crowded with junks, whose owners consider
it most lucky to cross the bows of a steamer.

* These china pillows often have a hole in the middle to hold
a purse.

HOMEWARD BOUND. 321

We arrived at Hong Kong early the next morn-
ing, and duly sailed on the 26th for Singapore and
Colombo in the P. & 0. Peshawur (Captain Wheler).
For two or three days we had a rough time of it,
owing to the after effects of a typhoon, which had
compelled another P. & 0. to turn back three times
on her way from Singapore. But after the 29th
the weather improved, and we began to enjoy our
voyage in the tropics.

Early on the 1st of December we steamed into
the harbour at Singapore, where we were to wait for
twenty-four hours. We had no friends on shore, and
therefore decided to drive into the city and visit the
Cathedral and Botanical Gardens, returning to the
steamer at night. The town is four miles from the
wharf, but we were able to take a gharry, or small
carriage holding four persons, open on all sides, but
with a good strong roof to keep off the sun. It was
lined with bright yellow,- and trimmed with blue,
green, and scarlet braid and tassels, the Malay coach-
man, with his long black curls, and dark skin, and a
scarlet handkerchief knotted round his head, being
a further adornment. The land on each side of
the road had been reclaimed from the sea, and still
looked swampy and malarious. It was, however,
covered with a number of Malay houses, built on
stakes several feet above the ground, and the dusky
faces and gay cotton kilts of their owners presented

Y

322 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

a thoroughly Eastern appearance. A number of
jinrikshas, bullock-carts, and gharries like our own
were coming to and from the city, and the drive
seemed all too short before we drove into Raffles
Square.

Here our plans were suddenly altered, for the
Governor, Sir Cecil Smith, having seen our name in
the list of the Peshawurs passengers, courteously
sent his secretary to meet us in the city and offer
hospitality for all the time we were at Singapore.
We therefore spent a very pleasant day at Govern-
ment House, and, in the afternoon, he and Lady
Clementi-Smith took us to see the Botanical Gardens.
They were full of beautiful palm-trees, and the open
greenhouses had lovely creepers trained over the
woodwork, no glass being necessary in that climate
to preserve the most delicate orchids. The great
feature of Singapore scenery is undoubtedly the vivid
green of the grass and the tropical vegetation.
There is scarcely any variation in the climate, and
our friends told us they sometimes longed for the
changes of the English seasons instead of the unbroken
sunshine and flowers of Singapore.

We returned to the Peshawur by 11 p.m., and she
sailed for Penang early the next morning. The sea
being perfectly calm, we had a delightful day watch-
ing the beautiful scenery of the Straits of Malacca,
and arrived at Penang the following afternoon. Some

HOMEWARD BOUND. 323

of the judges of the Straits Settlements, who had
come on board at Singapore, kindly took us ashore
in their steam-launch, where the acting deputy-
governor, General Trotter, repeated the hospitality of
Sir Cecil Smith, and invited us to spend the afternoon
at Government House. It was three miles out of
the city, but a Chinese gentleman having put his
carriage at our disposal, we had nearly arrived at
our destination when the axletree broke ; the carriage
began to collapse, and we had to jump out at a
moment's notice and walk the rest of the way. After
tea at Government House, General Trotter drove us
some three miles further in order that we might see
the Penang Botanical Gardens, which are even finer
than those at Singapore. He then took us safely
back to the harbour before the Peshawur sailed again
at 6 p.m.

In the course of the evening it was found that a
poor Chinaman had got on board by mistake, thinking-
it was the right steamer for Canton, and having dis-
covered his whereabouts, was nearly wild with fright
and distress. We had already gone some distance
from Penang, but the captain sent him back by the
pilot-boat, and the passengers crowded to the bul-
warks to see him lowered into it. He looked just
like a fat black satin pincushion as he was swung
over the side, and we all hoped he would be in time for
his own steamer, which was not sailing until 10 p.m.

Y 2

324 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

From Penang we had a very pleasant voyage to
Colombo, which we reached early on the 8th of
December. We were met by a kind letter from the
Bishop and Mrs. Coplestone, inviting us to stay with
them until the 10th, when we were to sail again in
the P. k 0. Valetta for Brindisi. Their house, a
regular Indian bungalow, was two miles from the
harbour, close to one of the small lakes of Colombo.
The rooms were very high, and surrounded by a
broad verandah, the lovely garden being full of cocoa-
nut palms. Unfortunately, after the first morning
the weather was extremely wet, so we did not see
much of Colombo itself, nor of Kandy, to which we
made an expedition on the 9th. But even a wet
journey to Kandy was well worth while, for the moun-
tain railway recalled in miniature our journey across
the Rockies, and we had many glimpses en route of
the lovely tropical vegetation, and the tea plantations
of which we had so often heard in England.

Mr. Coplestone, the resident army chaplain, met us
at Kandy station, and, under his guidance, we visited
Trinity College,' in charge of the C.M.S. Mission. We
also went to the famous Buddhist temples, and saw
as much of the town of Kandy as was possible through
the heavy mist and rain.

The following day the weather was no better, but
the Bishop and Archdeacon Boyd insisted on coming
to the harbour to see us on board the P. & 0. Valetta

HOMEWARD BOUND. 325

(Captain Briscoe), which had come in from Australia
that morning, bringing among her passengers for
Colombo, General Booth and Mr. Rudyard Kipling,
the novelist. She was due to sail at 4 p.m., but
about three o'clock a tremendous thunderstorm burst
over the city. The forked lightning was the most
vivid we had ever seen, and coaling proved a longer
process than had been expected. The heavy rain
which followed delayed her another twelve hours, as
the cargo of tea could not be shipped until it had
ceased.

However, she was able to start early on the 11th,
and after two rather rough days, we had a pleasant
voyage to Aden, where we arrived late on the night
of the 15th. The scene was very pretty as the great
ship lay at anchor, her long line of electric lights
reflected in the wxater, and blue lights at her bows
to show she carried the Australian mail. The pas-
sengers, in light summer dresses, soon began a busy
traffic with some Arab merchants from the town.
Their gay dresses contrasted well with the dark faces
around them, while the captain, cane in hand, came
to comment on the purchases, or lightly chastise an
Arab when over-impudent.

We sailed again before daylight the next morning,
and had splendid weather for our voyage through
the Eed Sea. It was intensely hot at first, and we
passed many pleasant hours watching the magnificent

326 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

sunsets over the African mountains, and listening
after dinner to the band of the Australian flagship,
some of whose men were on board the Valetta.
But on the 19th the wind changed to the north,
and two days later, the thermometer having sunk
twenty-six degrees, we were all shivering in winter
wraps.

We arrived at Suez on the 22nd, and had a quick
passage through the Canal, arriving at Port Said early
on the 23rd.

It was very difficult to believe we were so near
Christmas, and though we made many plans for its
due observance, they were all frustrated by a heavy
cross-sea in the Mediterranean, which sent nearly
all the passengers to their berths. However, a few
bravely ventured to a short morning service on
Christmas Day, at which my father preached, and
we sang some Christmas hymns, and by the following
morning the capricious Mediterranean was as calm
as a lake. We spent a very pleasant " Boxing Day "
in full view of the Albanian mountains, the long line
of snowy peaks looking peculiarly beautiful beyond
the low dark cliffs of Corfu.

The bad weather, however, had delayed us twelve
hours, and we did not reach Brindisi until 1.30 a.m.
on the 27th. It was a bitterly cold night, and
after saying good-bye to the Valetta, we were
thankful to settle ourselves in the well- warmed

HOMEWARD BOUND. 327

P. & 0. mail-train, in which we were to make a forty-
four hours' run to Calais, as it was important for my
father to reach home before the close of the year.

We arrived at Calais just before midnight on the
28th, thoroughly tired with the long journey, and
a little sorry to receive our first English welcome
from a newspaper reporter, who had come over the
Channel in order to gain our impressions of the earth-
quake in Japan. With admirable persistence he
followed us through a very rough passage to Dover,
and accompanied us in the railway carriage to London,
saying, i: Every moment is precious." We did our
best for him, but it was a decided relief to see a
fairly correct report in his paper the next day.

After one night in London we went down to
Exeter on the 30th. The Cathedral bells rang a
cheery " AVelcome Home " to my father from the
Diocese, and warm congratulations on our return and
on our preservation in the earthquake reached us
from every side. Our tour had taken exactly twenty
w^eeks, and it wTas very difficult to realize that all we
had seen and done had been compressed into so short
a time.

But we all felt " Japan as we saw it " had taught
us lessons that we could never have learned at home,
not only by the personal acquaintance that we had
formed with its warm-hearted people and with their
beautiful country, but by the insight that we had

328 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

gained into the strangely interesting struggle going
on among them between the darkness of heathenism
and infidelity, and the true light of Christianity.

We had seen and heard for ourselves from the
missionaries of the difficulties and perplexities of their
work. We had estimated on the spot the fierceness
of the battle that the Church is waging against ap-
parently overwhelming odds. We had gained some
little idea of the utter failure of Buddhism and
Shintoism to satisfy their votaries, or to instil any
principles of high morality and true progress.

Yet through all, and above all, the strong hopeful-
ness of the cause had predominated. We had never
come across one station where work was flagging,
except for lack of further missionaries. We had met
and heard of converts from every class of society, from
the court nobles of Tokyo to the blind basket-maker
of Nagoya, or the villagers of Oyamada. We had
carefully studied the varied organization through
which, with the loyal concurrence of their clergy,
the American and English Bishops are building up
the native Church on the lines of Catholic truth
and order. We had noted their appreciation of the
national characteristics that must characterize its
development in a country of strong individuality
like Japan.

To gather up our experiences in fewest words. It
was no story of assured victory that we had to bring

HOMEWARD BOUND. 329

home with us, no life of ease that we had to offer to
any further missionaries.

Our message was, rather, that in Japan there is a
post of honour in the forefront of the battle ; problems
to solve that will claim the highest powers of heart
and brain ; a home in a far distant land, whose very
distance involves an almost complete severance from
English interests and kindred ; and, more than all,
opportunities now within our grasp that, if allowed to
slip, may never recur.

Now — or never. The words are written on many a
promising missionary opening in Japan. But let the
Churches of our Anglican Communion be faithful to
their trust, and the victory of the Cross will yet be
won ; and won — who could wish otherwise — by the
same self-sacrifice and loving patience that have
marked every true Mission of the Church from the
earliest days to our own.

JAPANESE PILGRIMS.

( 331 )

NOTES.

Note A.— LIST OF THE CLERGY AND LAY WORKERS
OP THE CHURCH IN JAPAN.

I. Anglican Bishop. —The Right Rev. Edward Bickersteth, D.D.
Fellow of Pembroke College, Cambridge.

Cleroy, 3G (S.P.G., 4; C.M.S, 21; S. Andrew's Mission, 5;
Canadian Church, 3 ; Chaplains, 3).

Clergy.

Rev. W. Andrews, M.A.
Rev. W. T. Austen . .

Rev. J. M. Baldwin, M.A.

Rev. J. Batchelor . .
Rev. H. L. Bleby .
Rev. J. Brandram, M.A.
Rev. W. P. Buncombe, B.A
Rev. B. F. Buxton, M.A.
Rev. G. Chapman . .

Rev. A. Chappell . .
Rev. L. B. Cholmondeley, M.A
Rev. H. Evinoton, M.A.
Rev. H. J. Foss, M.A. .
Rev. F. E. Freese, M.A.
Rev. A. R. Fuller . .
Rev. P. K. Fyson, M.A. .

(Hakodate) .

. C.M.S.

1878

(Yokohama) Seamen's Mis-

sion.

1871

(Nagoya) Church of England

in Canada .

1889

(Hakodate) .

. C.M.S.

1879

(Osaka) .

. C.M.S.

1890

(Kumamoto) .

. C.M.S.

1881

(Tokushima, Shikoku) C.M.S.

1888

(Matsue) . . .

. C.M.S.

1890

(Holy Trinity College

Conces-

sion, Osaka)

. C.M.S.

1881

(Gifu, Mino) . .

. C.M.S.

1888

(11, Sakaicho, Shiba,

Tokyo)

1887

(Concession, Osaka)

. C.M.S.

1871

(The Firs, Kobe).

. S.P.G.

i<s7<;

(Yokohama) .

. S.P.G.

1889

(Nagasaki)

C.M.S.

1888

(Osaka) .

C.M.S.

1871

332

JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Eev. C. G. Gardner

Eev. H. T. Hamilton, B.A.

Eev. J. Hind, M.A. . .
Eev. A. B. Hutchinson .
Eev. E. 0. Irwine, M.A.

Eev. A. F. King, M.A. .

Eev. D. M. Lang, M.A. .
Yen. Archd. Maundrell
Eev. H. Moore, M.A. .

Eev. H. S. Morris, M.A,
Eev. G. H. Pole, M. A. .
Eev. H. M. Price, M.A.
Eev. J. Cooper Eobinson,

Eev. L. F. Eyde .

.A.

Yen. Archd. Shaw, M.A.
Eev. S. Swann, M.A. .
Eev. J. G. Waller, M.A.

Yen. Archd. C. F. Warren
Eev. C. T. Warren, B.A.
Eev. W. Weston, M.A. .
Eev. J. Williams

(11, Sakaicho, Shiba, Tokyo),
S. Andrew's University
Mission

(Nagoya) Church of England
in Canada

(Fukuoka) . . . C.M.S.

(Fukuoka) . . .C.M.S.

(Chaplain of Christ Church,
Yokohama) ....

(11, Sakaicho, Shiba, Tokyo),
S, Andrew's University
Mission

(Kumamoto) . . . C.M.S.

(Nagasaki) . . .C.M.S.

(11, Sakaicho, Shiba, Tokyo),
S. Andrew's University
Mission

(Kobe) .... S.P.G.

(Osaka) . . . .C.M.S.

(Osaka) . . . .C.M.S.

(Nagoya) Church of England
in Canada

(11, Sakaicho, Shiba, Tokyo),
S. Andrew's University
Mission

(Shiba, Tokyo) . . S.P.G.

(Fukuyama, Bingo) . C.M.S.

(Fukushima), Church of Eng-
land in Canada ....

(Osaka) . . . .C.M.S.

(Tokushima) . . . C.M.S.

(Chaplain of Kobe) .

(Tsukiji, Tokyo) . . C.M.S.

1887

1892
1890

1882

1880

1889
1890

1875

1891

1892
1881
1890

1888

1891

1873
1890

1891
1873

1890
1888
1876

Lay Workers.

Mr. J. Chappell. . . 1886

Mr. H. Hughes (Kobe) .... S.P.G. 1878

Mr. W. F. Madeley .... (Hiroshima) 1889

NOTES. 333

Mr. C. Nettleship .... (Hakodate) . . . C.M.S. 1890

Mr. Parrot (Matsue) 1891

Miss Ballard (S. Hilda's Mission, Tokyo) . 1892

Miss Birkenhead .... (Kobe) Ladies' Association,

S.P.G 1888

Miss Bolton (Osaka), Society for Promot-
ing Female Education in

the East 1885

Miss Bosanquet . . . * . (C.M.S.) 1892

Miss Brandram (Kumamoto) . . . C.M.S. 1884

Miss Bullock (S. Hilda's Mission, Azabu,

Tokyo) 1891

Miss Buxton (Matsue) .... C.M.S. 1892

Miss Cox (Osaka) .... C.M.S. 1889

Miss Dunn (Sapporo) 1890

Mrs. Edmonds (Osaka) .... C.M.S. 1889

Miss L. Faucett (Tokushima) . . .C.M.S. 1890

Mrs. Goodall (Nagasaki) . . . C.M.S. 1876

Nurse G-race Hartley . (S. Hilda's Mission, Azabu,

Tokyo) 1888

Miss Hamilton . . . . . (Osaka), Society for Promot-
ing Female Education in

the East 1886

Mrs. Harvey (Nagasaki). . . C.M.S. 1892

Miss Hogan (S. Hilda's Mission, Tokyo) . 1892

Miss Holland (Osaka) 1888

Miss Howard (Osaka) .... C.M.S. 1891

Miss Alice Hoar .... (Shiba, Tokyo) S.P.G., Ladies'

Asscciation 1875

Miss Annie Hoar .... (Shiba, Tokyo) . . , . 1885

Miss Huhold (S. Hilda's Mission, Toyko)

C.M.S 1892

Miss M. Hunt (Tokushima) . . . C.M.S. 1890

Miss Julius (Osaka) .... C.M.S. 1888

Mrs. Mola (Kobe) Ladies' Association,

S.P.G 1893

Miss Mola (Kobe) Ladies' Association,

S.P.G 1893

334 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

MissG.NoTT (Kuuiamoto) . . O.M.S. 1890

Miss Payne (Kushiro) . . . C.M.S. 1888

Miss B. 0. Payne . . . (Kushiro) . . . C.M.S. 1892

Miss Porter (Yonago) 1889

Miss P. Riddell. . . . (Kumamoto) . .C.M.S. 1890

Miss E. Ritson .... (Tokushima) . . C.M.S. 1890

Miss Sander (Matsue) . . . C.M.S. 1890

Miss Snowden . (S. Hilda's Mission, Azabu,

Tokyo) 1888

Miss Shirlock . . . . (1, Nagasaka-cho, Azabu,

Tokyo), Church of Eng-
land in Canada . . . 1891

Miss Tapson (Hakodate) . . C.M.S. 1888

Miss Tennent .... (Fukuoka) . . . C.M.S. 1891
Miss Thompson .... (Matsue) . . . C.M.S. 1890
Miss Thornton . (S. Hilda's Mission, Aza-
bu, Tokyo) .... 1887
Miss Tristram .... (Osaka) . . . C.M.S. 1888
Miss Wood (Osaka) . . . C.M.S. 1891

The Bishop* s Commissaries : — The Rev. R. L. Ottley, Magdalen
College, Oxford ; The Rev. Professor Stanton, Trinity
College, Cambridge ; The Rev. S. Bickersteth, The Vicarage,
Lewisham, S.E.

II. American Bishop. — The first American Bishop (Dr. Williams)
retired in 1890. His successor has not yet been appointed.

Clergy, 9.

Lay Workers, 24.

III. Japanese.

Clergy. — (In connection with English Missions, 13), 7 priests
and 1 deacon.

(In connection with American Missions, 6), 1 priest and 5
deacons.

List of Japanese Clergy (in English Mission).

Rev. T. P. Arato .... (Fukuyama) . . . 1892
Rev. A. Iida (Shimofukuda) . . 1889

NOTES.

335

Rev. J. Imai Toshdeiohi .
Rev. Stephen" Koba.
Rev. T. Makioka . . .
Rev. T. Mizuno ....
Rev. Yoshiyuki Nakanishi
Rev. A. Shdiada ....
Rev. B. Hlsayoshi Terasawa
Rev. D. Totaro Terata
Rev. S. P. Yamada . . .
Rev. Y. Ya^iagata .
Rev. C. N. Yoshizawa .

Japanese Lay Workers. — (In connection with English. Mi
Catechists, 62 ; Divinity Students, 34.

(In connection with American Missions), Catechists, 34
Divinity Students, 8.

(Tokyo) .

1888

(Osaka)

1889

(Osaka)

1890

(Kobe)

1890

(Osaka)

1887

(Tokyo)

1889

(Osaka)

1887

(Gifu)

1887

(Tokyo)

. 1892

(Numazu)

. 1885

(Tokyo)

.. 1889

ssions),

._J Note B.— THE GUILD OF S. PAUL.

Patron : — The Lord Bishop of Exeter.

President : — The Bishop in Japan.

General Secretary : — Miss M. Bickersteth, The Palace, Exeter.

Rules of S. Paul's Guild. — 1. The appointed prayer to be
used by Members every Sunday, if possible, at the time of a
Celebration of Holy Communion. 2. Each Member to pay a
subscription of not less than 2/6 annually, and, if able, to collect
alms for the Mission.

The Rules for Local Branches may be obtained from the
General Secretary, The Palace, Exeter.

General Information. — Short papers of Information, letters
from the Bishop, etc., and Intercession papers are circulated
from time to time, free of charge, to all Members of the Guild.
Special information regarding S. Hilda's Mission may be obtained
from the Secretary, Miss M. Bickersteth, and regarding S. An-
drew's Mission from the Bishop's Comm issaries.

How to Join S. Paul's Guild. — The name of any proposed

336 JAPAN A8 WE SAW IT.

Member should be sent, with subscription and full postal address
to the Secretary, The Palace, Exeter, who will supply past papers
of the Guild, and enter the name on the General Koll.

Special Objects op S. Paul's Guild. — 1. To offer intercession
that God may call clergy and others to His work in Japan, and
to enable them to carry it on to His glory. 2. To collect alms
for the University Mission of S. Andrew, and the Mission of
S. Hilda, at Tokyo, the capital of Japan.

Roll of the Guild. — The Guild of S. Paul is now divided
into sixty-six Branches, and has over 2000 Members.

Bankers : — Messrs. Sanders & Co., The Exeter Bank, Exeter.

Note C— THE BISHOP'S MISSIONS AT TOKYO.

S. Andrew's University Mission.

Rev. L. B. Cholmondeley, 1887, Oriel College, Oxford.
Rev. C. G. Gardner, 1887, S. Stephen's House, Oxford.
Rev. A. F. King, 1889, Keble College, Oxford.
Rev. Herbert Moore, 1890, Keble College, Oxford.
Rev. F. L. Ryde, 1891, S. John's College, Oxford.

The folloiving ivorlc is now carried on by this Mission : —

The Divinity School, under the Wardenship of the Rev. H.
Armine King, assisted by the Mission. It numbers thirteen
Members, who receive careful training in theology, and from time
to time go out into the country districts to prove their powers of
teaching.

The Night School and Club, conducted by the Rev. L. B.
Cholmondeley for clerks in Government or merchant offices. This
is attended by thirty to thirty-eight students, and some of its
members have been baptized.

Four Mission Districts of To7cyo, named Kyobashi, Ushigome,
Mita, and Akasaka. Each, except the last established, Akasaka,
has a small Church and native congregation, and in each full
parish life is maintained, supplemented by direct evangelistic work

NOTES. 337

among the heathen, such as Mission dispensaries, preaching stations,
and classes for enquirers and catechumens.

The evangelistic work in the country has been limited, until
lately, by the small numbers of the Mission, but in any place they
have visited regularly good results have followed. Thus, at the
village of Inui, a young man named Ishida has been baptized and
trained as a catechist, and already the leaven of Christianity is
gradually spreading in his village, and Ishida's family and several
others have been baptized. At Shiinofukuda there is a vigorous
Mission station now in charge of a Japanese priest, the Rev.
Yamagata Yoneji.

Valuable educational work has lately been taken by the
Mission in the Keiogijiku College for 1G00 boys at Tokyo.

S. Hilda's Mission.

Miss Thornton, 1887.

Nurse Grace (Miss Hartley), 1888.

Miss Mildred Snowden, 1888.

Miss Bullock, 1891.

Miss Hogan, 1892.

Sakai San, 1892 i T ir 7

T a -,™^ Japanese Members.

Isobe San, 1892) r

The following ivork is now carried on by this Mission : —

1. The training of Japanese ivomen as Missioyi tvorkers, by means
of daily theological instruction and practical work under the
superintendence of the Members. The women are divided into two
classes : (a) Ladies of good education living in S. Hilda's House,
who are trained in evangelistic work among the heathen, to give
instruction to women preparatory to baptism and confirmation,
and to hold general Bible-classes,- etc.; (b) Women of less
education living in the Japanese Mission House, who are trained
in evangelistic work among the heathen.

2. Evangelistic and other ivork among the women and children
in the districts of Ushigome and Kyobashi.

3. A School for young ladies from six years old, in which a

33$ JAFAN AS WE SAW IT.

sound Japanese education is given, and English is also taught.
Eeligious instruction is regularly given to the whole School, which
numbers at present forty pupils, and an Association recently
formed for Old Girls, holds meetings once in two months.

4. A School for English needlework. This is intended to
enable Christian girls to earn their own living, and is also very
useful in bringing them among Christian surroundings, when
their homes are still heathen.

5. A small Orphanage for girls, which was opened to take in
s,ome of the children rendered destitute by the late earthquake.
To this is attached a free school for very poor children.

6. 3£edical worTc. This consists of (a) a hospital of twenty
beds, in which Japanese women are trained as nurses ; (b) Dis-
pensparies in different parts of Tokyo, where doctor's advice and
medicine are given free to very poor patients. Classes for enquirers
and catechumens are held, and many patients from both hospital
and dispensaries have been baptized.

Note D.— CHUECH SYNODS IN JAPAN.

First Synod, 1887.

The First Synod was held at Tokyo in 1887. Its primary object
was to form one native Church out of the various congregations
scattered throughout Japan, or, rather, to publicly acknowledge
the unity they already possessed as a true branch of the Catholic
Church.

Its secondary object was to establish its own position as a
representative body or Synod of clergy and laity, which would
meet every two years under the presidency of the Bishop, in order
to discuss and forward in every way the progress of Church affairs.

Its Members were elected by local Councils, who met at four
centres — Tokyo, Osaka, Kumamoto, and Hakodate. They were
all communicants of good standing, and included all ordained
missionaries, pastors, and licensed lay agents. A congregation of
twenty persons could elect one Member, and of forty persons two
Members, and so on, and congregations of less than twenty were
allowed to combine in order to form the necessary number for a
valid election.

NOTES. 339

It was, therefore, a thoroughly representative body ; its pro-
ceedings were all carried on in Japanese, not in English, and the
results of its work have already proved most valuable. It
established a native Missionary Society, to be supported by funds
sent in to a Central Board. It sanctioned a body of canons,
relating to such matters as the admission of candidates to Holy
Orders, Ordination, Bishops, unordained agents, discipline, local
councils, consecrated buildings, etc. It accepted for the present
the Prayer Book and Articles of the Church of England, but
deferred to the future their exact position in the Church in
Japan.

Second Synod, 1889.

The Second Synod was held at Tokyo , in April, 1889. It was
opened with a Celebration of Holy Communion in the American
Church, and the sermon was preached by Teresawa San, a
Japanese deacon. The Bishop (Dr. E. Bickersteth) wrote
regarding it : — " On the whole the work done was useful and
practical. A great many changes, which it took a long time to
discuss, were proposed in the Synod, but very few were accepted.
A considerable time was spent in considering and adopting rules
of order, which will be of use in later sessions. A very good
report was handed in by a committee, on the salary of native
pastors and agents, which is likely to be a standard of reference
in this difficult matter for many years. It is just one of those
questions in which it is most important to obtain an unbiased
Japanese opinion. It would be difficult to do this without such
an organization as the Synod. Generally, I hope that an impulse
was given to not a few good works. The Japanese native
Missionary Society has now four stations of its own — two in the
neighbourhood of Tokyo, one in a western province, and one in
Kiushiu. One of the duties of the Synod is to elect the central
committee of the society. I cannot but hope this effort to elicit
from the beginning the evangelistic energies of the Japanese
Church may not prove fruitless ; that the disciples went every-
where preaching the Gospel is part of our earliest record of Church
history."

z 2

340 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT.

Third Synod, 1801.

The Third Synod was held at Osaka in April, 1891, and the
Bishop said at the close of his opening speech : — " The prospect
is one of solemn responsibility and of inspiring hopefulness. It
is opened to us, too, at a time when, more than any other period, if
a foreigner may rightly judge, through the progress of political
organization, the country stands in need of a solid core and centre
of thoughtful men, who recognize the obligations of righteous-
ness, unselfishness, and philanthropy because they are implicated
in their creed. It is not too much to say that representative
government, if it is to be permanent, demands a religious people.
If so — for other systems of belief are dying or dead — the future
rests with the Church. . . .

" For the Church of my baptism, I could see no greater grace.
As individuals, we could ask no higher privilege than to have
contributed, at a great crisis, to the establishment in this land of
a branch of Christ's Holy Church, united by bonds of faith and
affection only to its Western mother, apostolic in order and creed,
a new home where souls are re-created into the image of God."

In a letter to the Guild of S. Paul, written just after the
Synod, he wrote : — " So far as I am aware, no other native Church
in the East has so large a share of authority in its own hands as
the little Church of Japan. Of course, there are safeguards, such
as voting by orders and an episcopal veto, without which any such
attempt as we are making would be rash in the extreme, as there
is an extreme party in the Church which would welcome radical
changes ; but the good sense of the majority of the delegates
suffices, as a rule, to preserve us from dangerous experiments."
" Nothing very great or striking was accomplished by one week
of debate ; but, as far as I may judge, no mistakes were made.
A good deal of useful information was circulated, which will go
to form a healthy public opinion in the Church, and several not
unimportant steps were taken, such as the formal adoption of the
Ordinal, which, at our earlier meetings, had not been translated.
Among them, perhaps, the most important is a proposed addition
to the Prayer Boole of Services, for which it does not make

NOTES. 341

provision at present, such as missionary intercessions, the setting
apart of catechists, the admission of catechumens."

Note E.— ENGLISH TEACHING IN JAPANESE SCHOOLS.

English was first introduced into Japanese schools about
twenty-seven years ago, and taught side by side with Chinese.
It did not supersede the study of Chinese, but reduced it to
secondary importance. At one time it was taught in schools of
every grade, but the instruction, being given as a rule by Japanese
teachers, proved very unsatisfactory, and has now been discon-
tinued in all elementary schools. When hopes of Treaty Revision
and of free commerce with foreign nations were strong in Japan
the Government gave great encouragement to the study of
English ; but since the failure of Treaty Revision, and the
difficulty above named of finding satisfactory teachers, public
interest in its progress is much less keen.

The knowledge of Chinese is essential to any Japanese student,
because (a) all Japanese history, classics, etc., are written in Chinese
characters, with only a mixture of Japanese characters called Kanas,
and (£) all important words in this mixed language would be
in Chinese. People might be easily misled as to the relative
importance of Chinese and English teaching as now given in
Japanese schools. A much greater amount of time is devoted
to English, but this is only because the students would know
Chinese from babyhood, and English would be quite a new study
to them. — From Notes by the Rev. Imai Toshimichi.

( 343 )

INDEX.

Aden, 325

Ainu, the savage tribes of the, 115

Akaji, Lake on Mount, 62

Akasaki, 242, 243

Albanian Mountains, 326

Aleutian Islands, 10

Amado (wooden shutters), 304

Ambler, Rev. C, 142

American Church Mission in Japan,

64, 113, 114, 115, 142, 236, 266,

267, 291
American Nonconformists in Nagoya,

128, 206, 291 ; in Kyoto, 147 ; in

Osaka, 160
Amida- Buddha, images of, 270
Amidado, temple of, 145
Amoy, riots in, 314
Andrews, Eev. W., 331
Anti-foreign feeling in Japan, 39
Arashiyama, 150
Architecture, Japanese, 25, 26 ; at

Haruna temple, 59 ; Tokyo College

for, 102
Arinia village, 250, 251
Art, Japanese, in the last century,

41; in the Ueno Museum, 79
Art of flower arrangement in Japan,

161, 184, 185
Asano and Kira, story of, 34-37
Ashinoyu, Mount, 120
Aso San, a celebrated volcano, 276-

278

Atheism in Japan, 39, 108

"At Home" at S. Hilda's House,

73; at Mrs. Kirkes', 82, 83; at

the American Church Mission,

113 ; at Osaka, 163
Atsuta, destruction by the earthquake

at, 212, 213
Austen, Rev. W. T., 331
Autumn, a Japanese, 251
Awaji Island, 244, 256 ; mission

stations in, 114
Azabu, district in Tokyo, 19

Baldwin, Rev. J. M., 331

Ballard, Miss, 333

Bamboo work of Arima, 251

Banff, a mountain village, 6, 7

Barker, General, 314

Barry, Bishop, 2

Batchelor, Rev. J., 331

Bazaar at Tokyo, 64-66

Beds in Japan, 52, 53, 304, 307,

308
Bell, a famous, at Nara, 235
Bickersteth, Right Rev. E. H. See

.Exeter, Bishop of.
Bickersteth, Right Rev. Edward.

See Japan, Bishop of.
Big Hell, a mountain gorge, 121
Bill of fare at a Japanese hotel, 52
Biuzuru, image of the god, 111
Birkenhead, Miss, 249, 333

344

INDEX.

Bishop Poole Memorial Girls' School,

Osaka, 159-161, 170, 183
Biwa Lake, 140, 150, 151
Bleby, Rev. H. L., 331
Boats of the Cantonese, 314, 315
Bolton, Miss, 160, 170, 333
" Boom," a, on Lake Huron, 5
Booth, General, 325
Bosanquet, Miss, 333
Botanical Gardens at Hong Kong,

314 ; at Singapore, 322 ; at Penang,

323
Boyd, Archdeacon, 324
Brandram, Rev. J., 271, 273, 276-

282, 303, 331
Brandram, Mrs., 306 ; Miss, 333
Breakwater, a curious, 45
Brindisi, 326
Briscoe, Captain, 325
British Legation, Tokyo, 24, 112
Broom merchant, a, 240
Buddha, images of, 31, 278; in

Ueno Park, 76-7(J ; at Nara, 232,

235; at Kyoto, 153, 154, 235;

at Canton, 317
Buddhism in Japan, 33, 60, 61, 108,

145, 287, 289, 328; influence of,

39 ; taught in Tokyo University,

103 ; in Nagoya, 127, 128
Buddhist shrines and deities, 269,

270
Buddhist funerals in Japan, 293-302
„ temples at Nara, 232, 235 ;

in Kyoto, 261; at Kumamoto,

273, 284-286 ; at Kandy, 324
Buddhists, Hongwanji sect of, 145 ;

Jodo sect of, 152, 153
Buddhist ceremonial, a, 32, 33

„ relics in the Ueno Museum,

79, 80
Buddhist emblem of immortality,

142
Bullock, Miss, 18, 333, 337
Buncombe, Rev. W. P., 331
Burdon, Bishop, and Mrs., 313

Burial, rites of, in Japan, 61, 293-

302
Butsu. See Buddha.
Butsudan (Buddhist shrines), 269
Buxton, Rev. B. F., 331 ; Miss, 333

Camelia trees, 303

Canadian Church and Japan, 290

Canadian Pacific Railway, 4-8

Canton, visit to, 314-320

Canton chairs, 56

Cape Inobouye, 10

Cariati, Prince and Princess, 68

Carving, elaborate, at Nikko, 42, 45,
94

Castera (sponge cake), 270

Castle, the, Tokyo, 24 ; at Nagoya,
126, 131-135, 206, 272 ; at Osaka,
162 ; at Ogaki, 191 ; at Fukuyama,
239 ; at Kumamoto, 272-4, 283

Catechumens at S. Hilda's Mission
School, 90-92, 100

Catholic Church in Japan, 109, 110

Cemetery at Tokyo, 93; at Kyoto,
142

Ceremonial, a Buddhist, 32, 33

Ceremonial Tea-Drinking, 84-87, 110,
146, 162

Chamberlain, Professor, Things Jap-
anese, 95, 96

Chapel at S. Hilda's House, Tokyo,
20,39

Chapman, Rev. G., 331

Chappell, Rev. and Mrs., at Gifu, 140,
200-202, 217, 242-3, 331, 332

Characteristics of the Japanese, 109

Cherry trees in Ueno Park, 76, 97

Chikuzen, Princes of, 258

Children in Japan, 213, 214

Chimneys in Osaka, 167

China visit to Canton, 314-320

China and cloisonne shops at Nagoya,
136, 137

China pillows in Canton, 320

Chion-in monastery, 152, 153

INDEX.

345

•Cholmondeley, Rev. L. B., 16, 73,
115, 331, 33G

Chop-sticks, 105, 10(3

Christian University, Kyoto, 147
•Christianity in Japan, 108-110, 180,
249, 250

Christians, in Japan, 1596, 80; burial
of, in Tokyo, 93 ; at Nagoya, 137-
139. See also Missions.

Church of England and Japan mis-
sion work, 266, 267, 286-292

Church, the, in Japan, 74, 109, 110,
267; synod of the, 291; list of
clergy and lay-workers of the, 331-
33-4. See also Mission Stations.

Church Missionary Society, and
Japan, vi., 290; high school for
boys at Osaka, 181-183 ; at Hong-
Kong, 314

Church of Rome and Japan, 266
■ Church Synods in Japan, 291, 338-
340

Chusenji, lake and temple, 45

" City of the Dead," the, at Canton,
318, 319

Cleanliness of the Japanese, 51,
54

Clergy and lay-workers of the Church
in Japan, list of the, 331-335

Clifton, Rev. H. G. Fiennes, 8

Cloisonne-enamel shops at Nagoya,
135-137

Coiffure, Japanese, 248, 307

College, Keiogijiku, Tokyo, 94-101

Colombo, 324, 325

Columbia River, 7

Concession, the Foreign, at Osaka,
159, 172; at Canton, 316

Connaught, Duchess of, and S. Hildas
Hospital, 22

Consul's boat at Yokohama, 11

Coplestone, Bishop and Mrs., 324

Costume. Japanese national, 12, 13

Country life in Japan, 55

Cox, Miss, 333

Creeds in Japan. See Buddhism,

Shintoism.
Crepe factory at Kyoto, 147
Cryptomeria, avenues of, 41, 42, 59,
121, 123, 152
; Custom-house officers, 11
| Czarevitch, the, at Otsu, 140, 150

Daibutsu, the, 'a bronze figure of

Buddha, 76-79
Daimyos (feudal lords), of Japan, 29,

30
Dances, religious, at Nara, 232
Deities represented in household

shrines, 268-270
Deshima, Island of, 320
' Dickson, Professor, 102, 103
Dinner, a Japanese, 104-107
Dispensaries at Tokyo, 23, 24; at
Kyobashi, 26-28
, Divinity Schools at Tokyo, 74-76 ;

at Osaka, 178
I Dolphins, two, at Kumamoto, 135
1 Doshisha, the Kyoto University, 147
Dunn, Miss, 333

| Earthquake in Japan, 1889, 272
Earthquake shocks in Tokyo, 64,

68
Earthquake, the great, in Japan,
166-178, 181-229, 236-7, 242,
245-7, 250, 327
Eastham, Mr., 177
I East Hongwanji temple, 191
! Edmunds, Miss, 333
i Education at S. Hilda's Mission
school, 87-92
Emperor of Japan. See Mikado.
Empress of Japan, s.s., 9-11
Engineering, Tokyo, college for, 102,

103
England, news of earthquake in, 246,

247
English teaching in Japanese schools,
340, 341

346

INDEX.

Ensor, Eev. George, viii.

European Governments and Japan,
82

Evangelistic work of the Missions,
84

Evington, Eev. H., 331

Exeter, Bishop of, iii.-viii., 2, 9 ;
and S. Hilda's Mission, 19; an
address of welcome at S. Andrew's
Divinity Schools, 37 ; address on
" The Deity of Christ," 73 ; and
Tokyo Cemetery, 93; at Yoko-
hama, 107, 108 ; on leaving Tokyo,
116 ; address by, at Nagoya, 128 ;
at Osaka, 157-165 ; and the great
earthquake, 167 ; and the Divinity
School, Osaka, 178-181; address
to Osaka Christians, 183 ; visit to
Fukuyama Mission, 237-243; at
Kobe, 245-250, 253 ; at Fukuoka,
260, 261 ; at Oyamada, 268 ; at
Kumamoto, 274, 282 ; visit to Aso
San, 276-278 ; letter to The Times
on Mission work in Japan, 286-
292; at Nagasaki, 311 ; at Hong-
Kong, 314

Fair, a religious, in Tokyo, 26, 27 ;

in Kyoto, 141
Falls of Niagara, 3, 4
Farmers, the middle class of Japan,

100
Fatshan, s.s., 314, 320
Faucett, Miss, 333
Feast, a grand, at Kumamoto, 276
Flower arrangement in Japan, 161,

184, 185
Fire station in Japan, 38
Fir trees in Japan, 42, 76, 121 ; a

great, at Nagasaki, 311
Fish, sacred, at Nara, 231
Fishing-boats on lagoon on Hama-

matsu, 126 ; on Lake Biwa, 151 ;

on Inland Sea, 255
Foreigners in Japan, 82

Foss, Eev. H. J. and Mrs., 237, 241-

254, 256, 331
Frances, Sister, 8
Eraser, Mr., British Minister at Tokyo,

24, 112
Freese, Eev. F. E., 16, 72, 73, 331
Fuji, Mount, 116-119, 121, 122,

125
Fuji-ya Hotel, the, 116
Fukuoka, arrival at, 257, 258; mission

work at, 259-262, 295, 271, 300-

302
Fukuyama, Mission church at, 157,.

158 ; visit to, 237-243
Fukuzawa, Mr., college of, 74, 95-

101
Fuller, Eev. A. E., and Mrs., 309-

312, 331
Fumisita, or trampling-boards, 81
Funerals in Japan, 293-302
Fyson, Eev. P. K., 172, 178, 331

Gardens of the Mikado's palace, 68-

71 ; the Imperial, at Kyoto, 145,.

146
Gardner, Eev. C. G., 16, 73, 332,.

336
Gateways, ancient, in Tokyo, 24
General Werder, s.s., 310-313
Geyser on the side of Aso San, 278
Gharry, a, at Singapore, 321, 322
Giant, employed by General Ky omasa

at Kumamoto, 273, 283
Gifu, 140; earthquake at, 192, 193,.

199-205, 209-221, 236, 250
Ginza, the, of Tokyo, 67
Glacier House, 7, 8
Goddess of Mercy. See Kwannon.
Gohei, the (strips of white paper)*

42,59
Gokaruku, the, 300
Goodall, Mrs., 311, 333
Gospel Propagation Society and

Japan, 290
Grace, Nurse, 17, 18, 20, 23, 27, 28,.

INDEX.

347

84, 93 ; and the great earthquake,
207-228

Greek Cathedral at Tokyo, 15, 66

Griffin, Dr., x.

Grundy, Eev. J., 314-320

Guild of S. Paul, 17, 290, 335; ac-
count of the great earthquake sent
to, 208-228

Hairdeessing in Japan, 248
Hakone, valley and lake of, 120-122
Hall, Mr., Consul at Nagasaki, 311, 312
Hamamatsu, lagoon near, 126
Hamilton, Rev. H. T., 332
Hamilton, Miss, 238, 333
Hare, Bishop, 115
Hartley, Miss, 333
Haruna, lake, 61, 62

„ valley, 56, 59
Harvey, Mrs., 333
Haswell, Captain, 254-256
Hermit Range, the, 8
Hideyoshi, a famous general, 87, 162
Hind, Rev. J., at Fukuoka, 258-261,

332 ; Mrs., 300-302
Hiraningawa River, bridge over, 194-

196
Hoar, Miss, 333
Hogan, Miss, 333
Holland, Miss, 333
Holy Charity Dispensary, Tokyo, the,

23 24
" Holy Mountain " of Tokyo, 72
Home for Native Mission Women,

Osaka, 161
Hondo, Mission stations in, 114
Hong-Kong, 313, 314, 321
Hongwanji temple, 142-145
Horse, the sacred, in Sensoji temple,

111, 112
Horse-shoe Falls, Niagara, 3, 4
Hospital in Tokyo. See S. Hilda's.
Hospital in connection with the Tokyo

College of Medicine, 103, 104
Hotel, a Japanese, 49-54

Hot Springs at Ikao, 54
House, furnishing of a Japanese, 50
Howard, Dr., 6, 38 ; Miss, 333
Howling Dog Promontory, 10
Hughes, Mr. H. and Mrs", 253, 332
Hunt, Miss, 333
Huron Lake, 4

Hutchinson, Rev. B., 262, 332
Hyogo. See Kobe.
Eyogo News, and the earthquake,
174-178, 186-229

Ibukiyama, 186

Ichi-no-miya, village of, 205

Iida, Rev. A., 72

Ikai, the (tablet), 298, 299

Ikao, mountain station, 54-62

Images of Buddha in Ueno Park,
76-79; at Kyoto, 153, 154; at
Nara, 232, 235 ; at Kyoto, 235

Images of the god Binzuru, 111 ; of
the god Jizo, 120; of Kyomasa,
285. See also Kivannon.

Imai, Rev. J., 210, 216 ; and Japanese
funerals, 293-302; and English
teaching in Japanese schools, 340,
341. See also Tosliimichi.

Imao village, 223, 224

Imperieuse, H.M.S., 310, 311

Imperial gardens, Tokyo, 68-71

Imperial University, Tokyo, 101-103

Infidelity in Japan, 289

Inlaid wood shops at Miyanoshita,
119, 120, 251, 252

Inland Sea of Japan, 162, 238, 243,
254-256

Inn, Japanese, at Taratama, 277 ; at
Ureshino, 304--308

Irwine, Rev. E. C, 107, 108, 332

Islands, curious, in the Inland Sea,
254-256

Ito, Count, 30 ; Mrs., 21

Iyemitsu, temples of, 46-49

Iyeyasu, military ruler, temple of,
41-49, 57, 76, 121

348

INDEX.

Japan, Bishop in, 1, 2, 129 ; meeting
with, at Banff, 6 ; house in Tokyo,
16; address by, at Nagoya, 127,
128; at Fukuyama, 237-243; at
Kobe, 245-250; at Fukuoka
259-261 ; at Oyamada, 264, 265
visit to Aso San volcano, 276-
278 ; mission work in Japan, 290 ;
at the Japanese inn, Ureshino,
307; missions at Tokyo, 336-
338 ; Church Synods in Japan,
338-340
Japan, landing in, 11 ; costume, 12,
13 ; customs, 17 ; hospitals, 23 ;
houses, 27 ; police, 29, 30 ; fire
station, 38 ; anti-foreign feeling in,
39; peasants, 41; native hotel,
49-54; shopping in, 68; marriage
ceremony, 68 ; musical instru-
ments, 73; schools, 87-92 ; photo-
graphy, 93, 94; national charac-
teristics, 109 ; the Church in, 109,
110 ; Mission stations in, 114, 115 ;
railways, 125 ; Council of State,
147; floral arrangement in, 161,
184, 185 ; music, 184 ; the great
earthquake in, 166-229, 236-237,
242, 245-247, 250; travelling in,
210; children in, 213, 214; hair-
dressing in, 248; trade in, 251,
252 ; household shrines in, 268-
' 270; " Old," 284 ; funerals in, 293-
302; beds in, 307, 308; Mission
work in, iii.-viii., 286-292, 327-
329 ; list of clergy and lay-workers
of the Church in, 331-335 ; Church
synods in, 338-340. See also Art,
Missions, Temples, &c.
Japan Mission Fund, 96
Japanese Church Synod, 235
Japanese clergy in English missions,

334 ; lay-workers, 335
Japanese feast, a true, 104-107
Jinriksha, ride in a, 12-26, 150, 151
runners, 46, 278, 281

Jizo, the god, 120
Jodo sect of Buddhists, 152, 153
Juggler, a Japanese, 83
Julius, Miss, 238, 333
Junks on the Inland Sea, 256; off
Canton, 320

Kaga (china ware), 137

Kaga, daimyo of, 101

Kagos (Japanese palanquins), 250-
253

Kamakura, image of Buddha at, 235

Kamidana (household shrines), 268-
270

Kanda, district of, 101

Kandy, visit to, 324

Kannuslii (Shinto priest), 294-296

Kasamutsu, 205

Kato Ky omasa, General, 272, 273

Katsuragawa Kiver, rapids of the,
147

Keep, the, at Nagoya Castle, 135

Keiogijiku College and University,
94-101

Ken-Cho, the, at Gifu, 217

Kerr, Dr., 320

Kettles for spirits, 68

Kicking-Horse Pass, 7

Kindayu hotel, 56

Kindergarten, S. Hilda's Mission
school, 88, 89

King, Eev. Armine F., 6, 25, 73, 332,
336

Kipling, Kudyard, 325

Kira and Asano, story of, 34-37

Kirkes, Mrs., 13, 38, 39, 66, 82

Kirkwood, Mr. and Mrs., 68

Kishinone San, 89

Kiushiu Island, 114, 253-258, 274,
282

Kobe, visit to the treaty port of, 243-
254, 311 ; mission at, 265 ; address-
presented to the Bishop of Exeter
at, 288, 289. See also Hyogo Neivs.

Kobe Maru, s.s., 253-256

INDEX.

349

Koto, a musical instrument, 73, 107,

184
Kotsuke, Province of, 301, 302
Kozu, place called, 116, 125
Kumamoto city, 135, 261, 268, 271-

276, 281-286, 303
Kumatsu, Prince, visit to Imao, 224,

225
Kunyam Hill, temples of, 318
Kurume, city, 262, 264, 268, 270, 271
Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, 31,

270; temple of, 110-112; at

Kyoto, 154, 155
Kyobashi, dispensary at, 26-28

„ Mission church, 71-72
Kyomasa, General Kato, 135, 272,

273 ; temple erected to, 284-286
Kyomizudera temple, 153
Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan,

139, 157 ; image of Buddha at, 235 ;

temple at, 261

Ladies' Institute, Tokyo, 30, 31
Lagoon near Hamamatsu, 126
Lake Akaji, 62

„ Chusenji, 45

„ Hakone, 120-122

„ Haruna, 61, 62

„ Huron, 4

„ Superior, 6
Lang, Rev. D. M., 332
Language, the Japanese, 62
Lantern-maker, a Chinese, 137
Laurenti an Mountains, 3
Lay-workers of the Church in Japan,

list of, 331-334
Lee, Captain, 9
Leper village near Kumamoto, 284-

286
Library in Tokyo University, 102
List of the clergy and lay-workers

of the Church in Japan, 331-334
Lloyd, Eev. A., 96, 101
Lotus-flower, a Buddhist emblem,

142

Mc Alpine, Mr., 207

Macllae, Miss, 30

Madelev, W. F., 332

Maebashi, 54, 55

Malay houses at Singapore, 321, 322

Manitoba, s.s., 5

Marco Polo, figure of, at Canton,.
317

Marriage ceremony in Japan, 68

Matsunaye San, 89

Matsuri, a religious fair, 26, 27

Maundrell, Archdeacon, 114, 332

Memorial ceremonies in Japan, 301,.
302

Merchant, a, in the old days of
Japan, 275

Methods of S. Hilda's Mission school,
88,89

Mikado of Japan, the, 15 ; palace
of, 24 ; gardens of, 68-71 ; state
bullock-cart of, 79 ; at Nijo Castle,
146; birthday of, 247, 248

Mill at Osaka, wrecked by the earth-
quake, 173-178

Milne, Professor, 197

Mineral springs at Miyanoshita, 116

Mino, valley of, 163, 164

Mission houses in Japan. See &.
Andrew's; S. Hilda's.

Mission work in Japan, 327-329;
letter to The Times, 286-292; list
of clergy and lay-workers, 331-335

Missions in Japan, 114, 115, 207,
265-267. See Fukuoha, Kyoto,.
Nagasaki, Nagoya, Kobe, Kuma-
moto, Kyobashi, Oyamadd, Osaka,
Tokyo, Ushigome.

Mission stations, Kusso-Greek, 66

Mission schools for girls and boys,
Kobe, 249, 253

Mita, district of, 95, 101

Miyanoshita, a hill station, 115-122-

Moji, port of, 257

Monastery at Kyoto, 152, 153

Montreal, 3

350

INDEX.

Moore, Eev. II., 73, 96, 100, 101,

332, 336
Morris, Rev. H. S., 332
Moto Machi, street in Kobe, 247
Mountains near Ikao, 56; Rokko

San, 251, 252
Mount Akaj;? 62

i„ Ashinoyu, 120

„ Baker, 10

„ Fuji, 116-119, 121, 122, 125

„ Sir Donald, 8
Museum, the Ueno, 76-82
Musical instruments, 73
Musicians, Japanese, 106, 107, 184

N., Me., of the Japanese Church

synod, 235, 236
Nagahashi San, 89
Nagaragawa River, bridge over, 195-

199
Nagasaki, 303, 309-312
Nagata Cho, Mrs. Kirkes at, 38, 39,

66,82
Nagoya, city of, visit to, 126-139 ;

plain of, 140; earthquake at, 194,

205-218, 236, 237, 289
Nakamura, Mr. and Mrs., 263, 264
Nakasendo River, 199
Naniwa, the, at Osaka, 174-178
Nara, ancient Japanese capital, 230-

237
Nettleship, Mr. C, 332
Niagara Falls, 3, 4
Nicolai, Pere, 66
Nijo Castle, Kyoto, 146
Nikko, temples at, 31, 57, 121, 232 ;

visit to, 41-49 ; wood-carving at,

94
Nippon Sei Ko Kwai, the, 109,

110
Nippon Yusen Kwaisha S.S. Line,

253-6, 313
Nirvana, the, of Indian Buddhism,

300
Nishi Hongwanji, 145

Norito, a Japanese prayer, 294-296
Nott, Miss, 271, 303, 333 ; and the
lepers, 285, 286

0 Clia No Yu, or Ceremonial Tea-
drinking, 84-87, 110, 146, 162

Odawara, Bay of, 116 ; plain of, 122

O Fuda (oil-paper) of deities, 268-
270

Ogaki, 140 ; earthquake at, 188-192,

. 200, 202, 236, 250

Ogakikaido, the, 187

Ojigoku, mountain gorge, 121

Ojima, Dr., 209, 210

Okazaki, 211

Omiya, 54

Omara, Gulf of, 308

O Rii San, Nurse, 209, 224

Osaka, 153, 236, 241-243; blocks of
stone at, 131, 162; visit to, 157—
165 ; earthquake at, 64, 166-183 ;
Mission stations in, 114, 265

Otsu, where the Czarevitch was
attacked, 140, 150, 151

Owari, the Princes of, 126, 135

Oyamada, a Christian village, 261-
268

Pacific Ocean, the, 9, 10

Pagodas, at Nikko, 41 ; at Canton,
317

Palace, the Mikado's, 15, 16, 24;
gardens of, 68-71

Palace, the Imperial, at Kyoto, 146 ;
in grounds of Chion-in monas-
tery, 153

Palaces, at Nagoya, 132-135 ; at
Osaka, 163

Paradise, Buddhistic idea of, 299, 300

Parisian, s.s., 2, 3, 8

Park at Tokyo. See Ueno.

Pappenberg, island of, 312

Parrot, Mr., 332

Payne, Miss, 333

Pear trees. 63

INDEX.

351

Peasants, Japanese, 41, 150 ; in the

Northern Island, 257
Penang, 322, 323
Persecution of Christians in Japan,

1596, 80, 81
Persimmons, Japanese fruit, 276
Peshavmr, P. & 0. s.s., 313-323
Photography, Japanese, &c., 93, 94
Pigeons, flock of sacred, 111
Pig-tails, unknown in Japan, 242 ;

in Canton, 315
Pine tree, a remarkable, 151
Plain, a fertile, in Japan, 41
Pole, Rev. G. H., 332
Police in Japan, 29, 30
Poole Memorial Girls' School, Osaka,

159, 160, 170, 183
Port Said, 326
Porter, Miss, 333
Prayers in Chion-in monastery,

152, 153
Preaching-station, a, 33, 34 ; at

Nagoya, 127, 128,
Presbyterian Mission Hospital at

Canton, 320
Price, Rev. H. M. and Mrs., 182,

332

Quebec, 2, 3

Railways, in Japan, 125 ; in Kiu-

shiu, 257
Railway lines, damaged by the

earthquake, 193-196
Railway tunnel on the way to Nara,

230
Rain in Japan, 159
Rapids of the Katsuragawa, 147
Red Sea, voyage through the, 325, 326
Regatta at Kobe, 249
Religious dances at Nara, 232
Religious fairs in Tokyo, 26, 27 ; in

Kyoto, 141
Religious instruction in Japanese

schools, 30

Religious teaching in J3. Hilda's Mis-
sion school, 90, 91
Rice-fields in Japan, 41 ; harvest, 125,

126
lliddell, Miss, 271, 276, 282, 303,

333 ; and the lepers, 295, 286
Riots in China, 314
Ritchie, Captain, 3
Ritson, Miss, 333
Robinson, Rev. and Mrs. Cooper, at

Nagoya, 126-139, 206, 207, 332
Rocks at Haruna, 56, 59
Rocky Mountains, 6-8
Rokko San Mountain, 251, 252
Rome, Church of, and Japan, 266
Roman Catholics at Canton, 316
Ronins, graves of the forty-seven, 34-

37
Russo-Greek Mission in Japan, 66
Ryde, Rev. L. F., 73, 96, 332, 336

Saga, 303

Sahahi, evergreen tree, 269, 295

Sakamoto, temples at, 151-153

S. Andrew's Church, Tokyo, 16, 17,

37, 38
S. Andrew's University Mission, 16,

24, 84, 112, 290, 336; Divinity

school of, 37, 73-76
S. Hilda's Mission House and Home,

Tokyo, 17-22, 290 ; an " At Home "

at, 73 ; work of the, 83, 84, 87 ;

hospital, 22-24; mission school,

account of, 87-92, 337, 338. See

also Grace, Nurse; Thornton, Miss,

&c.
S. Lawrence River, 2, 3
S. Michael's church, Kobe, 245
S. Paul's Guild. See Guild.
Samisen, a musical instrument, 73

107, 184
Samurai, or two-sworded warrior, 29,

33, 100, 107, 270
Sampan (Japanese boat), 255, 256
Sander, Miss, 333

352

INDEX.

Sandzu Kiver, the, 297
San-ju-gen-do temple, 154
Satsuma rebellion, the, 272, 274
Saulte Ste. Marie, 5
Schools, in Tokyo, 15, 87-92 ; writing

in Japanese, 160, 161
Schools in Japan, English teaching

in, 340, 341
Scenery at Singapore, 323
Sceptics in Japan, 289
Screens in Japanese houses, 27, 54 ;

rain-doors, 51
Seamen's Chapel, Hong-Kong, 314
Seamen's Mission, Yokohama, 108
Seismology, Professor of, at Tokyo,

208
Sel kirks, range of the, 7, 8
Sendai, the daimyo, 80, 81
Sensoji, temple of, 110-112
Seto mono (china ware), 137
Shaw, Archdeacon, 37, 38, 71, 113,

114, 323
Shaw, Mrs., 83
Shiba, a district of Tokyo, 16;

temples and woods, 31-33
Shimabara, 303
Shimadzu, Count, 23
Shimbashi Station, Tokyo, 13, 16
ShimoDoseki Straits, 256
Shinto shrines and temples, 42, 55,

269, 287; at Haruna, 56, 60; at

Nikko, 57 ; at Otsu, 151 ; at Nara,

232-235
Shinto funerals in Japan, 293-302
Shintoism, creed of, 60, 61, 108, 328
Shiota, village of, 188
Shirlock, Miss, 333
Shoguns, dynasty of, 31-33, 41, 76,

82, 135, 146
Shopping in Japan, 68
Shops at Nagoya, 135-137; at Naga-
saki, 310; in Canton, 320
Shrines, household, in Japan, 268-

270
Silk districts in Japan, 55

Silk factory at Kyoto, 147
Silk-spinning, 263
Singapore, 321, 322
Smith, Sir Cecil, 322, 323
Smoking, the Japanese and, 164
Snowden, Miss, 17, 18, 333, 337;.

and S. Hilda's Mission School,.

87-92
Sonogi, town of, 308, 309
Sponge-cake, Japanese, 270
Springs, hot, at Ikao, 54; mineral,

at Miyanoshita, 116; Ojigoku,,

sulphur, 121
Stags, sacred, at Nara, 231
Station at Gifu destroyed by the

earthquake, 199
Stone, blocks of, at Nagoya castle,

131 ; at Osaka Castle, 131, 162
Stone age, relics of, in Ueno Museum,

79
Stories re first railways in Japan,

125
Stove, a Japanese, 21 ; used in Tokyo,.

167
Straits of Malacca, 322
Straw work of Arima, 251
Streets of Tokyo, 26 ; and shops, 40
Students, at Keiogijiku College, 99,.

100 ; of the Imperial University,.

101, 102 ; at Osaka, 178-181
Suez, 326

Sulphur springs, Ojigoku, 121
Sumiyoshi, 250, 252
Sunset over Mount Fuji, 122
Superior, Lake, 6
Superstitions in Japan, 299 ; Lake

near Ikao, 61, 62
Swann, Kev. C. T., 238, 239, 249,

332
Sword-making, art of, 107
Synods, Church, in Japan, 291, 338-

340

Takasaki, town of, 62, 63
Takasu, 221-226

INDEX.

353

Tapson, Miss, 333

Tarataina, village, 277

Tarui, 186

Tea, a Japanese, 184, 185

Tea-drinking Ceremony in Japan, 84-
87, 110, 146, 162

Tea-house, a Japanese, 279

Temples, in Japan, Shiba, 31-33 ;
of the forty-seven Konins, 34-37 ;
at Nikko, 41-49, 121 ; at Haruna,
59, 60; at Tokyo, 72 ; of Sensoji,
110-112; at Kyoto, 142-146,
152, 153 ; at Sakamoto, 151-3 ;
of the 33,333 Images of Kwannon,
154, 155 ; near Osaka, 163, 164 ;
at Shiota, 188; East Ho.ngwanji,
191 ; at Gilu, 202-205 ; at Nara,
231-235 ; erected to General
Kyomasa, 273, 284-286; of the
Five Hundred Genii, 316, 317;
ou Kunyam Hill, 318

Teetotalers, jinriksha men are strict,
46

Tennant, Miss, 333

The Times, the Bishop of Exeter's
letter to, 286-292

Thompson, Miss, 333

Thornton, Miss, 17, 18, 20, 22, 27,
28, 83, 333, 337 ; and the great
earthquake, 208-227

Times, The, of Japan, 95, 96

Titam-tuk reservoirs, 313

Tohaido road, the, 116

Tokitsu, 308, 309

Tokugawa, the, 31

Tokyo, arrival at, 13, 14 ; description
of, 15, 16, 40; Mission work in,
16-24; the Mikado's palace, 24;
Ushigome, part of, 25 ; streets of,
26, 40 ; temples in, 31-37 ; bazaar
in, 64-66 ; bay of, 67, 72 ; central
thoroughfare of, 67 ; park and
museum, 76-82, 146 ; cemetery,
93; Keiogijiku College, 94-101;
University, 101-103 ; departure

from, 115-116 ; compared with
Kyoto, 141 ; earthquake shocks in,
167, 208 ; relief for sufferers, 227-
229; jinriksha runners in, 281

Tokyo, the Bishop's Missions at. See
8. Andrew's Mission; S. Hilda's
Mission.

Torii (curious Japanese arches), 152,
231

Toronto, 3, 4

Tortoiseshell shops at Kobe, 251,
310, 311

Toshimichi, Kev. J. Imai, 39,-62, 90.
See also Imai

Towels presented to Japanese work-
men, 240, 241

Trades in a Chinese city, 319

Training of Japanese women, 83, 84

Trampling-boards, 81

Travelling in Japan, 210

Trees damaged by the earthquake,
196

Trinity College, Kandy, 324

Tristram, Miss K., 159, 160, 170, 171,
207, 223-225, 333

Trotter, General, 323

Tunnel, on the way to Nara, 230

Typhoons, in the Pacific Ocean, 10
at Nikko, 46, 49 ; off Hong-Kong,
321

Ueno, temples at, 31 ; station, 40 ;

park and museum, 76-82
Umbrella-maker's garden, 63
Unitarians in Japan, 108
University, the, Tokyo, 101-103
Ureshino, town of, 303-308
Ushigome, Mission church at, 25
Utsunomiya, hotel at, 49-54

Vahtta, P. & O. s.s., 324-326

Valley of Nikko, 45

Vancouver, 8

Van Dyke, Mr. and Mrs., 207

Vincent, Colonel and Mrs. Howard, 9

2 A

354

INDEX.

Volcano, Aso San, 27C-278
Volcanic rocks in Haruna valley, 56,
59

Wallee, Kev. J. G., 332

Walters, Mr. and Mrs., 9, 11

Warren, Archdeacon, at Osaka, 114,
157-165, 184, 332 ; visit to Fuku-
yama, 237-243; house wrecked
by the earthquake, 166-173

Warren, the two Miss, 159, 169, 171
„ , Eev. C. T., 332

Washing in Japan, 305

Wax trees, 257

Weston, Rev. G., 244, 247, 332

Whale-back boat, a, 5

Wheler, Captain, 321

Wigram, Eev. F. E., 181

Williams, Bishop, 13, 64, 93, 115,
334

Williams, Rev. J., 332

Women in Japan, 12, 13, 65

Wood, Miss, 333

Wood- carving shops at Haruna,
62

Wooden clogs worn by the Japanese,

12,13
Woods, the famous SMba, 31-33
Wood-shops of Miyanoshita, 119-120
Worden, Dr., 207
Wounds, remedy for, in Japan, 222,

223
Wrestling match, a, 164
Writing in Japanese schools, 160, .161

Xavier, S. Francis, x., 80, 108,
266 .

Yaami's Hotel, Kyoto, 141, 157

Yashiki (palace), a picturesque, 30

Yedo. See Tokyo.

Yezo, island of, Mission stations in,
114, 115

Yokohama, 9-12, 93, 94, 107, 108

Yoshizawa, Rev. C. N., 90

Y. M. C. A. formed by Tokyo Uni-
versity students, 103

Yumoto, 116, 125 ; plain of, 122

Zen-shu sect of Buddhists, 297

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